IN FASHION'S REALM.

Otago Witness, Issue 3195, 9 June 1915, Page 71

IN FASHION'S REALM.

By Marguerite

WEEKLY UP-TO-DATE DRESS NOTES.

I start the illustrations this time with a i rather novel coat —part of a costume. It is shown side view, the better to convey a proper idea. Now, the coat is clearly derived from the Italian military cape. You will remember an illustration of the latter , some time ago. and then tire capc-blouse. j The lines here indicate the cape in associa- | tion with what we may call a belt effect, ' the “ blouse ” part being pouched into tins with more or less smartness. If the skirt were included, you would see the clever way that point is used to “catch up’’ a side panel of pleats—pleats starting from nothing at the top and widening out in fan form to foot. The design, what you see and what you can imagine, is a good one for a winter dross —fur trimming to finish. A word on golfers, which in these clays are fashioned on very modish lines. One that attracts mo is of deep hip length, band down front, with pattern across, hem d.tto, belt in the fashionable “X” style in front. The collar is flat, buttoning high, and may be worn up or down, and the cuffs are gauntlet. Another golfer in something _ of the same style has no belt, the band beingbrought round snugly and carried down front without a break. There is no collar;

but an inset has this, and such gives a verysmart effect. There arc golfers such as described in the one complexion, or with tho >bands in contrast, and some of the latter repeat on pocket-flaps and to band tho cuffs. There are shorter golfers—those, indeed, w.th rounded fronts, and, again, there are . some that arc rather long. These essentially I

= becoming garments owe no little of their attractiveness to their patterns. They are exnnisite, and somet tncs feature two, tho golfer one, and the bands, cuffs, and collar another. Tho colour scheme, generally speaking, is as varied as the rainbow—brown, cream, mole, block, saxc, light grey, navy, and the like. 1 mentioned an inset. At once I go off

on neckwear—the range for all kinds. There 1 are military jabots, spot net and accordeon- I pleated niaon; net cravats with frilled collars; (-rope do chine l ows and knots with fringed one's, all louring shades; white muslin fronts with roll collar; ivory silk and ninon crossover fronts w.th black cilk and velvet military collars attached; white muslin hem-stitched fronts with military collars and buttons; ivory net fronts trimmed with val, military coliar attached; and so forth. Then lor something extra I may quote the beautiful ivory silk vests with floral crepe do chine collars attached, and buttons; the many silk tartan military collars and the more than beautiful evening scarves—silk ninon, strikingly designed, in velvet, floral effects, and embroidered crepe do chine lends with fringed ends in bewitching - colours. You may remember I spoke of the missed opportunity for patriotic emblems. I have to take part of this back, as I see in some quarters patriotic bows, posies, rosettes, knots, etc., and for a trifle —still, for very occasional wear. Another most charming- winter model— . one of the tailorctto variety. The coat is about as perfect a thing as you could want —one that lias length, and yet, by that clever side-piece, one that lias a “ waist ”

itself to the illustrator’s art as well as I could have desired. The vest is in contrast, small buttons all the way down, from small “ \ ” from the military collar of the blouse. The sleeve is a full three-quarter, or belled to the extent shown. Knitted floods, hath for ladies and children’s wear, have reached a very high-grade of perfection, the garments displaying a finish very different from the severely plain, make of a few seasons ago. Contrasting colours are used for large collars and rovers, an expansive rever on one side only being a feature of some. Cuffs, belts, and pocker flaps are also added, the stitch, too, being an altogether different pattern from'that employed for the body of the coat, so that the distinctiveness of the contrast is even more marked. Ccats are sports length, three-quarter, and full length. Anything more comfortable than these soft, gracetuilooking wraps I cannot imagine. Pretty little caps arc usually worn with the sports coats in colours to match. The full costume for little girls and small boys in these knitted goods is very much the vogue, caps in harmony. Very cosy they look. Girdles "may bo extra beautiful, so enhancing many a dress which otherwise would lack something. There is the plain girdle, with swathed folds, which fastens on side. It is tacked on to a flat foundation, and is, of course, deep. Tin n there is the decorated girdle—a fiat kind, made, say, of Poiret silk and fairly vivid. It will be edged with plain corded silk, and for a smart fastening will have three straps of this with buttons. It is lined and stiffened with crinoline. A similarly-shaped girdle is made of ribbed silk with scalloped edges to conform to the wide markings, and this will fasten with three large buttons with either real or simulated buttonholes. All girdles arc deep, and arc worn so as to lessen the depth of the bodice. This is especially the case with the young, and, incidentally, very much the case with girls with their hair down. Then bolts are more conspicuous than formerly. I am not referring to the leather bolt, hut to the self. They are deeper than usual, and may be very effectively stitched if this conforms to the dress. A novelty is # such a belt with pendant pocket. Thus on the buttoning side (two buttons) there ;s a tabbed attachment, one side of which is in line, with the fastening. It is of “tram-ticket” utility or, say, “ watch,” and is the excuse for a dainty piece of needlework. This may take the form of an .embroidered initial. Among the frivolities are fruit-clusters. They are made of either k ; d or silk, the former preferably for now, the latter later on. Little apples are a wise selection —say three of different complexion, with as many leaves. Then there may bo the addition of two sprays of berries. Naturally, anything of this kind is rather costly—that is, if bought ready made. Happy the girl who has had a training in fancy needlework, as in that case the cost is 9 reduced to the materials. As there is likely to be a considerable display of small fruit of this kind in spring millinery, such workers may employ their idle evening hours in the meantime with much advantage._ The chief part of the recipe is circles of kid or silk packed with cotton wool. A French knot, with the silk thread drawn all the way through the fruit so that it flattens correctly, is the associate hint. The illustration is of a French blouse of unusual character. It is also of beautiful lines, and where not adopted in its entirety is a first-class suggestion for adaptations. Those capo-liko effects back, or back and

effect at tiie same time. It is in the mili-

tary class, without actually being a military creation, this, of course, arising from the button and braid effects on the upper part and below. The coat is very prettily broken midway between those side-pieces, which together simulate a chevron. Then the skirt is of an attractive kind, and as for the sleeve, it is, as you see, of full length. The new costume skirts are decidedly attractive, and more than usually varied. Plain gored styles and yoke effects serve to accentuate the smartness of the plain and pleated tunic styles. Some of these have a pleated underskirt, and some, again, are pleated from the waist. If you want what has high utility value, then I may emphasise serge and poplin. A well-made skirt is sometimes more than half the battle of a good turnout. Black coating serge skirts in tun c style, high waist, and finished with buttons, are to be recommended. Likewise black heavy cheviot serge made with two self-bands round skirt, strap waist, finished with buttons; likewise, again, black boxpleated tunic skirts in coating serge, and blank permoa in new tunic stylo trimmed with crochet buttons. Nothing boats the black cloth skirt, tailor-cut, self-strap to trim, buttons to adorn; but a skirt needs tailoring, as unless it is well made it is, in my opinion, a waste of good material. I have a lurking regard for' the high-class, ready-made garment, partly because one can see what one is getting, but largely because in those days ready-mades are so perfectly cut. And in winter skirts the cut must bo extra good. I love the tailored costume if it is not too severe. One always looks well so attired, and then it is always economy’s best selection. Top-to-too dressing is what I am always recommending, and I believe that it is better observed to-day than at any previous time. By top-to-toe I mean everything in harmony, and not one thing chosen one day and a.nother tho next without regard to this. As a matter of fact, while a hat may suit half a dozen dresses, there is always one it suits better than tho rest, and vice versa. Then one’s ensemble doesn’t end with hat and costume. One’s neckwear must be more or less in keeping if any is worn that is accessory; and one’s gloves must bo good; and suited to the occasion, and one’s shoes must be immaculate. Tho well-turned-out woman is she who is particular about the etceteras. Nothing is too trifling to escape her judgment ere it is used. And as she is so particular, she knows the value of plenty of miirors so that everything is on right, and when she loaves her

front together, are very stylish. The corset lacing is always smart, the criss-cross suggesting the trellis. And, as you sec, the lacing is drawn to a bow, from which depend ends with tassels. The collar is another pretty feature, and one of the best expressions of the kind. Observe that the girdle is in keeping, the general design being for a separate, or preferably a. costume. Many prefer velvet muffs to fur ones anyhow on occasions. A yard of 17in velvet will go the full way. Sixteen inches should be out off and the odd piece divided in half

house she knows how to wear what she has I on. J She may. for instance, have one of those smartly-made skids j.:st mentioned, and this military blouses for the supplement. It is one of the mw styles, though not lending

lengthwise. This will servo for the cuffs. The muff is drawn to the ends like a pouched sleeve, and the cult's will be free enough to readily aJmit the hand.-. When worn the wrists :-re covered and the muff pouched hnveeu, the lower silhouette describing a semi-circle. The cuffs are improved with a little cmbroideiy— say a border of stars. Now, have a stole I:: keeping. and for ,i thoroughly good ensemble let us suppose that there is a girdle that sympathises. (Jo farther again rnrl . up; o e that the collar dr>-s, and that frill or tna sleeve is banded in the same fashion! Uo farther still and even suppose that the hat docs! What is more charming than the sympathetic toilet which is a picture vitiiout one clashing note?