FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 3040, 19 June 1912, Page 73

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(Fbom Otib Own Cormsponbbwt.l LONDON. May _3. —Praise From a Frenchwoman.— " Each time I come you English are more charming, more nice, and—ah f—dress better." The speaker was Madame Paquin a charming French lady who is the originator of many of the most "fetching" fashions, that come to us from Paris. Londoners ought indeed to feel pleased and flattered As I mentioned a week ago, this authority has expressed the view that paniers are only for the tall —length and slenderness are required for their successful wear. For such, she is reported to have created a delightful example, caught back level with the knees and held with posies in a mode suggestive of Watteau; but she asks her English friends not to* take too seriously the threatened vogue toward paniers. " The English/' said Madame Paquin, "have too great good sense to wear what is unbecoming. I have seen with much pleasure how improved the English taste is

—the style of •dress, the way of walkingall ! And not only the modish people, but just the ordinary people and young girls I see in the street. It is most marked everywhere." Outsiders are informed that "Modame's methods are original. She does not design in the usual way. As a modeller works in clay, so she works in the medium which is to express her views. The studio is a room with stands, and the materials are yards and yards of stuffs of every kind and coiour. These she blends, drapes, veils, contrasts, unr.il the idea has been evolved. A new ' Paquin ' has been created." Public opinion in Paris continues to. be divided regarding the merits or otherwise of the draped dress and threatened increasing fulness. —An Old Friend. In spite of the big show made by silks ! and satins, voiles and eponges, linens and muslins, whipcords and silk serges, we have no intention of abandoning the ever-useful ; shantung silk. For all uses it will be in request, and there is considerable choice : as to its texture and weight, and its toning, , even in the natural tint. Of course, the I new shantungs are thoroughly up to date in having a wide border, and for the most ' part JJiia is self-coloured. Quite handsome and extremely effective are the imitation Madeira-work borders of much of the season's shantungs; they are woven in one | with the silk, and there is no punching J of holes, yet at a distance one feels oon- : vinced that the border is really an added ! piece of broderie. It isn't," though, and ■ this skilful imitation, is one of the successes iof the summer material list. When tailors are working with shantung that is rather i light of weight, they will be sure to experi--1 mant with draperies and pleatings about ; the mid-skirt. The "hundred and thousand" spotted foulard, each piece introducing a multiplicity of coloured spots, will be used as revers and trimmings on shantung, and the colour touch is then quite attractive. But we shall probably find the "hundred and thousand" silk dress i rather dazzling to tired eyes. —Light and' Dark. —

The association, of black and white and white with black is still quite orthodox, but by way of a change we find that a pjood deal of putty colour is associated with Wack, and the influence of the two in union pervades all departments of dress. Putty colour can hardly be recommended as being generally becoming, but there are certain complexions which can stand it. Quite an original costume has a skirt of putty-coloured charmeuse gathered up into bunches either side of the knees; the skirt is narrow at bhe feet; therefore it is slit up both sides, and the back falls in a long square-cut train, while the front is hardly longer than the insteps, and the space at either 'side is filled in with pleatings of cream kilted filet lace. The coat is of black satiri, with rounded fronts, 1 * the edges turned back to show a border line of the puttylining; the coat just meets .in front and fastens with three amber buttons, a-fter it has described a long V-shapo, leaving the throat exposed. What sleeves there are are cut in one with the coat, and they finish just 'below the shoulders with a turned-back putty-coloured "cuff"; thence there is a long full sleeve of filet tied in at the wrist with a piece of. black satin, the hand being pretty well covered by the lace frill; a corresponding frill finishes the neck of the coat, standing up all round the neck behind just like a Medici collar and ending in front in a V-point. Possibly the model may be described as "extreme," but it will not be long before' it has duplicates and triplicates everywhere, in circles where smartness and up-to-date-ness are made a special study. The hat of picot straw—the most fashionable variety iust now—has a putty-coloured top and a black brim lining, its trimming consisting of a sweeping osprey standing well out at one side. The sunshade of • filet has the orthodox long stick, its cover being of cream fila6 threaded :with black ribbon velvet tied in a. large bow. Those who dislike side paniers—and the nownber of objectors is legion—will choose instead some sort of drapery fastened low down on the skirt as near the hem as possible, and there are times' when the result is quite pleasing. The "trick" is to catch the extra length and extra fulness of the side breadths, to lift them slightly, and to fasten the result to the underskirt, finishing the gathering by a few ornamental buttons or a jet motif or a rosette. This mode of arrangement immediately brinirs the wearer quite up to date, while it still allows her to have length and to look slim about the waist and hips. ■ The davs of "Louis Philippe are recalled with vividness when we see a little coat of ivory broche worn with a draped dress of black sntin, the coat being made with a single rever of black and a single rever of embroidered lawn, finished round the hips with a verv small basque. The sleeves have cuffs of "black satin, and the Waist is clasped with a narrow band of black finished in front with a large cameo ornament, with buttons to match. The effect reads oddly, but in the achievement of the picturesque we shall have to accustom ourselves to many strange details and arrangements; the ideas are always carried out with odd materials and for the most part with a union of light and dark. Thd fashion of introducing of a different material into the gown is one that is seen more and more frequently. Quito a number of the afternoon dresses of taffetas are cut away at the armholes, where there is a piping to finish the line, and sleeves of ninon or net or lace put in nn appearance through the opening. These transparent sleeves, which are often finite full, are joined to the little yoke piece and the collarband, and an immediate liv'lines* is imparted to the taffetas dress bythe choice of these sleeves. It is a good idea where seams have to be made in • taffetas, to part

a line of silk cord all along, for it is seldom that taffetas has nQt a tendency to pucker when it is machined. This silk cord i 3 a useful addition to the little highwaisted taffetas coat where the join comes all round the back, and where even the suggestion of a pucker would look unsightly. The cord, too, makes a suitable finish to the edge of the half-length Magyar sleeve which is so frequently the pattern chosen for the fanoiful species of coatee. Fanciful coatees and boleros of taffetas will be worn with dresse3 of material and colour quite different; some will meet in front, others .will fall straight to the knees without making any attempt to fasten; some will be long, others short; some will have a basque below ihe waist, others will have a frilled basque that does not reach the waist; some will have long coat tails behind and only two short tabs in front. —Some of Our Hats. — One is almost afraid to undertake a dissertation on millinery, for the suibjeot in these days is a vast one. It is not enough to say that shapes are large and small, for each classification contains an immense i variety of stylo. Numerous are the straws used, and for the most part the finished j shape is as light as a feather, whether & close fitting hat or a hat* of brim dimensions that eclipse anything we have had of late years. For the most part, large hair, really are large, and there is a marked tendency for the hrim at the back to protrude much farther out from the crown than it does at any other part; dimensions from l back to front are greater now than from side to side. Picture hate have brims that I uplift or roll up, or are pinched into undulating lines. It is generally accepted that brims shall be lined, either with black velvet or with cream | lace or with straw that matches neither in colour nor in kind. Tagal and Manila mix. satin and Leghorn associate quite pleasingly, «hip and Manila work in together; there are any number of dainty Italian straws of a fanciful nature, and all are as light as a feather. Speaking of feathers, by the way, they continue to get more sumptuous every year. _ Feathers of the most beautiful quality wind themselves round and round the high-crowned hats, ending at a, lofty altitude; so plentiful does the plumage seem to be that it is twisted round just a 6 one would manipulate a yard of piece silk or a few vards of ! ribbon. The fronds are of immense length, and each feather is very thick. The Lancer plume still is placed in an upright position against the tall crown of the hat. which is generally very nearly brimless. and the drooping ends fall over graoefullv. The hat, wide of brim for the most jirrt, has its ostrich plumes lying flat, the alternative being a very thick and bunchy and wiry-looking osprey standing out from one side. Feathers are to have a veryi prominent place on all the smart hats, whether the dimensions happen to be large, moderate, or quite small. The price staggers people who have not much money to spend on dress. Two guineas is cheap for a Lafiioer plume, of length that is short and of quality that is. quite indifferent waced in comparison with a wonderful srpsoimen that runs into three times that figure. dever milliners have f come to recognise that faces are not _ all the same, and that there are nationalities and types; therefore the individual has to bo studied, and the more this method is practised the, more will there be a development in individual styles when milliners undertake to fulfil orders for. their customers. Paris has grown quite enthusiastic and excited over a "bowler" hat for women. It is of straw, and its sha.pe is practically the same as the man's bowler; its trimming is a tall, upstanding brush osprey. Its line is hard, and is not in the least feminine. But, there you are; tastes differ, and London has yet to learn to like what Paa-is is receiving with rapture. Small hats are wonderfuiy varied as to pattern and colour associations, and even \as to the trimming. But all are* so light : in weight that one does not realise that a hat is on the head. Immensely popular ; hiive become the shapes rather like a helmet with a pinch in the brim over each end, a little slight upturning at the back to sho • the hair. Many of small shapes are still worn completely covering up the back of the liead, but by degrees those will be discarded. It is a feature of all the most stylish shapes, whether wide of brim or entirely brimless, that sbmetliing of the hair at the back shall be visible; and the improvement accordingly is great. • Millinery nowcrs are very pleasing, and no matter how long a list could be_ compiled there would still be many omissions. Every flower, practically, known to the gardener has Its replica in the artificial flower department; week by week some species is added that was not there before. There is still a fancy for flowers to stand eh aigrette, and there are upright stems of roses that appear to have been plucked ruthlo&sly from a tall standard tree.

Spreading hats with shady brim and not too high of crown, and trimmed most simply with a double pleating of fine lace or sprigged net, one frill placed above the other, finished round with a strip of velvet, a large knot of the same being tied at one side; a wreath of very small flowers or berries looks pretty instead of the velvet, and what remaina of the trail is formed into a big true-lovers' knot at otm> side In thesedays far more attention is paid to line a-nd modelling of the shape, and in order that nothing shall detract from charm in these directions, the trimming is frequently of the simplest, A reoemt addition to the list of shapes i% the "Girondin," which is reminiscent of the old pork-pie. so fashionable in the days of huge chignons—in the days, too, when dresses were looped and draped to a' remarkable extent. Narrow velvet ribbon encircles the crown of the "Girondin," finishing in a small bow at the back; the

front trimming oonsista of an erect ostrich plum©. There are high erections made of cupped ostrioh, and these are light and fluffy and attractive on the neat and simple type of hat. Some of the simple hara are a little like the odd-fashioned sailor, with straight brim not very wide. This shape has to be worn slightly over the right eye, to give an irresistible "devil may oare" expression\to the wearer. If wo go to Paris for the useful but undeniably smart hat, we shall have to select-one of the now raarquis shapes with its folded bacir. brim, which now juts out at a curious ang'e at the right side of the back, describing <* well-defined santmg lme as viewed from the front, lhese new shapes are all of finest black -Uagal or crinoline, the brim held up I>y pure wbite corded ribbon, from which springs a tall aigrette with ends drooping over like a weeping willow; it is called the willow ostrich aigrette. Just a Few Scraps.— ~ A new addition to the tailoring material list is silk covert coating. It has been seen at JSewmarket this week, and is one of the materials of the moment., The fashion of stretching a piece of wide embroidery point upward across the figure is still liked. Many broderie blouses are made this way, with*- Magyar yoke and sleeves of lawn or ninon or net lightened by laoe motifs. Flouncings of silk-em-broidered chiffon thus arranged are re- \ sponsible for some very smaxt blouses, and voile, with a wide embroidered border stretching across the figure and finishing the hem of the skirt will be a very popular choice for the all-in-one summer dress. The voile is in pretty colour, the embroidery is generally white, and a daisy pattern is a frequent choice. Bushy aigrettes in the hair have become a pest in the stalls at opera and theatre, and a frequenter of Covent Garden has summed up courage to make public protest. Ladies are begged not to wear aigrettes in their hair, since they impede the view of those at the back. " This year it seems to be the fashion for women to wear great bottle-brushes at the back of their heads, which almost touch the faces of those who unfortunately occupy stalls behind." All the writer says is true. The result of the appeal yet hangs in the balance.

»Juite a new fabric for furnishings is a cretonne which, though composed of cotton, is woven with a commingling of fine and coarse threads in suon a way as to impart the effect of a rich woollen stuff. This is patterned with a blurred shadow .design of dull Indian " red flowers and dark shadow foliage. The ground is usually g»ey. For a little while now there has been a run on grey-grounded tapestries and cretonnes covered well with a large design in mauve flovrers. The newest cretonne does not readily soil—a characteristic favourable to its ceneral adoption. Upholstery fabrics generally now have a "shadow" pattern, a near relation to the once-used chine. Lingerie grows ever more and more sumptuous. Crepo de chine and China silk are replacing even the finest of lawn for underwear, and much of both materials is included in the modern bridal outfit. Cascades of lace fall down the nightdress front, while a fiobu of the finest lace draped about the shoulders and fastened in front with a pretty rosette takes its turn as a nightgown^decoration. ~A lace flounce round the hem is not a rarity, while as for wide lace frills to finish the nightdress sleeves, they are quite a matter of course.

Veils that conceal the features are still, alas! too often chosen: they are still fashionable, and most ( of them are of real and costly lace. Expense and becomingness are often sadly out of proportion.. Madame Paquin promises a revival of the oldfashioned veil of Brussels net—pink, white, and black, —with chenille spots that will rejoice the hearts of those who remember the becoming effect of the veiling which softens the features, but does not disguise and distort them. The home blouse-maker is rejoiced to find that the handkerchief Magyar is still a possible choice. To such a one it is a joy to choose a large silk square with its stencilled pattern, slice out a place lor the head ,and run up two sleeve seams — the blouse is finished when a few fasteners have been added to the back. Some of the silk handkerchief squares, bold of pattern and gay in colour, out up with good effect to form revers and cuffs and lapels for coats and dresses. One rever, and that rather large, is often the only finish to a Magyar dress-front, while the most favoured of the tailored coats is the one which has one rever only, the opposite side ef the coat being finished by a row of buttons or a very severe piping. The arrival is announced of a new variety of crystal fringe for evening-dress trimming. It is composed of tiny rings of glass linked together like a chain, and though the effect is dainty in the extreme, there is more strength and solidity than one might at the outset imagine. Another crystal trimming is made as a fringe of the bright little beads, each strand being finished; with a little glass ring.