FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

Otago Witness, Issue 2983, 17 May 1911, Page 81

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON.

(Feom Oue Own Cobeksfondent.) March 31. —Where the Sun Shines.— It is not at all likely that sunshades or even the somewhat more useful cn-tout-oas will be of any practical benefit to anyone in this country for a good many weeks to come, but these have been needed in the South "of France, and various stray examples of the coming styles have found their way to London, looking anything but seasonable while the snowflakes continue to fall outside, while rain comes down in deluges, and while the easterly winds penetrate through fur coats. All the early specimens aire stoutly built on sticks that are thick and very tall, while the shades themselves seem to be rather smaller than usual —it may be that the exceeding thickness of the stick and its unusual length are deceptive in respect of cover-size. Perhaps, after all, if we have a repetition of last year's sunless summer, the parasol of velvet will be'more in keeping with the meteorological conditions than that of chiffon. The velvet variety, coloured- as well as black, is reported ,to have had a considerable amount of success on the Riviera, where the idea was launched, and in these days, when velvet is inquired for for numerus purposes, it is not an uncommon occurrenco to come across a parasol of silk whioh has its stick tightly bound round and roumj with velvet, this being- wound round after the manner of a puttee, until one begins to think that the velvet has replaced the foundation stick. The stick is there, however, and the velvet bandage is chosen in a colour to match exactly the tone of the silk. These, sticks and the flat handles of the velvet have a neat and sober appear-* ance, and they are more comfortable to carry than the sticks which are smothered with a close network of beads. Silk sunshades and en-tout-cas are made in the brightest of colours —scarlet, cerise, vivid blue, and emerald green all being conspicuous, and while some are finished round with a dangling border of heavy silk fringe, others are edged round with lace, in cream colour, but it is not anywhere fulled on; it exactly fits the shade and is kept taut by attachment to each rib. Striped borders of contrasting colour are a very usual finish, while the girl who knows how to paint can decorate her sunshade to please herself. Some of the painted paraspls, in silk or satin or delicate tones, have the pattern all round as a formal border, while the more original decorator prefers to. paint just one panel, or at the most two, running a trailing design from the edge right home to the ferrule. Sweet peas are flowers which lend themselves attractively to this style of arrangement, and as sweet-pea blendings and effects are- to characterise many summer dresses and hats, it is quite in keeping for the parasol to follow suit. It seems rather a pity for hand-painting to be- veiled, but it is sometimes covered up with a veiling of filmy lace, light enough to soften the pattern without hiding the flowers, fruit, and foliage forming the design. "•: Raised flowers of silk -and others made of padded chiffon form a border round some of the silk parasols, but these are apt to look a little clumsy when the sunshade is carried unopened. Curious is the parasol formed entirely of a series of silk petal-shaped nieces, the idea being that it shall represent a great big rose when it is open; it is made .in cream and in ' pale pink, and has an inner lining .'of chiffon. A pretty idea, hailing from Paris, is the lace-covered parasol, or, the one which has its draping made of hand-wrarked broderie Anglaise; a crochet cover!' • top, is ~ found durable, and it is quite- 1 expected' , that the sunshade covered t with a veiling of hand-wrought crochet wijl prove ' one of the most pleasing styles of the season. Ladies clever with needle and with crochet hooks are making their own sunshade covers, which they will place over a foundation of patterned or plain silk. Brocaded satins and China silks are mate-

rials now used frequently to cover the sunshade frame, and a bonder of black and white striped satin is quite a customary feature. Parasols of brocade have handles of Dresden china painted with wreaths and clusters of the jSame flowers as those on the brocade. In these days of long and thick sticks, some finish is needed, and a thick siJk cord with long pendant tassels of silk or chenille, to match the .stock and the cover, seems best suited for the duty though occasionally a full ribbon bow is put there. Wood throughout forms most of the sticks, but some are gorgeous with the upper half of cut crystal that sparkles as ifc is used and reflects a variety of hues. A great many of the handles are -just a plain flat knob of the dimensions of a five-shilling-piece, and hardly thicker; at ths top of some sticks, queer birds perch, while there is a partiality for a brown stem cut into tendrils, having an _ art nouveau figure carved in a cream-ivory Colour, placed as if leaning against the ■branch of a tree. Carved ivory designs are often used as a finish, while balls of crystal are effective. Among the quaint specimens is the handle, all of wood, taking the formation of a swan neck, the head and beak bending over and leaving a comfortable loop for carrying purposes, though it is not so convenient a finish as a crook which will settle itself on the wrist. There are a few crook-shaped finishes, but the wood is so thick and the bend-over is so sudden that there is no room to suspend it from anything but a finger. Flower stems are pretty, a handsome blossom of the magnolia or lily tribe, carved exactly and tinted to nature, looking very handsome resting happily on the top of the stick, which is at all of a. rustic nature, but the majority now are highly polished and very smooth to the touch. Reversible satin is not ignored by sunshade makers, though the specimens so far produced are bizarre, to say the least, and will not be at all becoming. The reverse side of a black satin is often of brilliant Oxford blue, very frequently it is of emerald green, and one constantly finds it of oerise—there is a great liking in some quarters for these sudden contrasts. In the formation of loose wrap cloaks, the reversible satin is all very well, though the ensemble i 3 not always in the best of taste, but it will- bo terrible to see a vivid emerald green reflected on the face of the person carrying a sunshade which is outwardly of the- black, and no less trying will be the lining of the fashionable blue which is many degrees more brilliant than the royal-tone. Of course, such a sunshade should be carried as the accompaniment of a wrap of the same Janus satin; the cloak is generally worn with the black outwardly, but every opportunity is taken of displaying the colour, usually by means of a generously-proportioned sailor collar and deep cuffs, or by the large broad revers which cover up almosit the front of one's person, while the inside of the coat so often, is made visible by the front being practically without fastening. Nearly all these cloaks are cut with sleeves all in one with the wrap; the backs are straight and loose, but tboy have no excess of width; the fronts are distinguished by some kind of collar or rever, fastened low at one side of the waist with a single fastening. As a trimming 'on wrap cloaks, too, whether of satin in black or colour, many mantelmakers are chocsing to introduce striped silk, usually of black and white, the lines being broad and prominent; ooloured stripes alternating with stripes of white or black provide changes, but in any case the result is rather conspicuous, and is hardly likely to have a long spell of popularity. Spriitug Wrens.— s Long stoles of satin lined with contrasting colour are still noticeable, but in the latest shape it must be made to taper off inte a hoed at the back of the neck, finished with a bunchy silk or chenille or beaded tassel. Some kind of a.cape figures as a finish to many of the ulster-coats, the draped folds of one variety tapering off into a point in front of the waist after conning l low over the arms in fichu folds from a pointed l hood effect behind. In marked contrast is the coat made with a high collar which fits closely round the throat and is simply trimmed in front with a severe group of buttons, while a girdle encircles the very high waist. High double collars of satin or velvet look snug as a throat protection when winds are chill and when no furs are worn. The Magyar arrangement of cut characterises long enveloping coats just as it does the loose cloaks and the exceedingly short and highwaisted Etons, and the collarless visites made of brocade, to be worn with a drees of plain material toning with the principal colour in the brocaded pattern. For these cloaks too, we find much satin used in the construction, as weld as silks of various makes. Wraps of Irish poplin are promised a turn, and there is a bengalino which makes up good effect; while face cloth in a pale beaver colour generously inlet with broad panels of thick guipure is often made up over a foundation of bright silk-green or cerise, the colour showing with happy effect through the lace. It is quite expected that the caped coat will be worn all through the summer, and this is an addition alike sensible and usually becoming. . The burnous shape has not had its day. It is obtainable in all light colours in cloth and satin, and a new wrap that is sleeveless and fastens with elastic below the hips will be very us3ful to the girl who goes out much at night and needs something easy to put on. The new fashion for jetted and transparent net® as a material for ornamental coats is received with joy in dressy quarters. Very pretty are some of the models, for they are given ample decoration, in the way of collar and revers and stole finishes in front, finished with tasselled points of jet. A collar of satin goes very well with the wrap of spark-

ling jetted net, and the plain surface of the satin has a subduing effect - should too much sparkle bo objected to. Floss silk embroidery in colour can be embroidered on to plain net and turned into sailor collars and revers with very charming effect. For day wear Paris has introduced the sleeveless coat, cut very much on the lines of the Greek tunic, and as a rule it boasts a good deal of very exquisite embroidery. A New. Skirt. — Chroniclers in Paris are rather excited about a new skirt, cut after a pattern that renders it suited to tailoring materials as well as to fabrics of thinner texture. Quite narrow and tight at the top, this skirt is cut away at the bottom in the left side, so that room may be obtained lor easy walking. It is not cut up, but is cut right across in a slanting direction from the front to the back, the edge being tucked under so as to give the effect ot the skirt being caught up accidentally, unknown to its wearer. Of course, the wearer is thoroughly cognisant of its eccentricity, and she takes very good' care to wear underneath it an elaborate, or at any rate, a suitable petticoat Even the petticoat may be an illusion, for the large gap can quite easily be filled in with a permanent flouncing of contrasting material to look like part of the petticoat In. these days things are not always what they seem ' , ... The petticoat of the last generation is an altogether unknown garment in these days of "line," when excess of fulness and anything approaching rustle have been enr tirely abandoned. For the moirette underskirt there will probably always be a oertaan amount of inquiry but even this ha? undergone all the width reduction it oan, and it must be very narrow and very plain, having a severe kilted frill as a finish. Satin is the maternal which alternates with moirette, and the fit round the hips must be faultless. But the thoroughly up-to-date lady will wear no petticoat other than that on Princess lines and this is a garment which does duty for camisole as well In its sleeveless state it has the preference, with the armholes piped or outlined with embroidery. The lawn Princess petticoat is cut with low neck and this is scalloped out and buttonholed. In the front there is sure to be a spray ot hand-embroidered flowers, with slots all round the neck-opening, allowing lor wie insertion of ribbon so that it can be drawn up to fit comfortably. As for *hc edge of the skirt, it often falls perfectly plainthat is to say, there is no frill or fussy fulness to finish it Soft satin. and China Bik are selected for the evening, when of course, there is no shoulder support of thj material permitted. Square-cut and low, a band of ribbon is worn over the shoulders to keep the back and front of the petticoat united. About all the Princess uuderslips there is more or less tit, but there is distinctly "more where the boned variety is concerned. Usually this is of silk, cut in shapely manner and slightly boned to give support to the figure. This is usually chosen to be worn under the Empire dress, and it does triple duty—acting as petticoat, corset-cover and corset. In its construction silk of a good firm quality should be chosen. Of course, softer still is satin. The .colour depends on the circumstances, so does the selection of material patterned or plain, borne of- the striped silks are often used. A flounce, characterised by meagre fulness, finishes the edge, and the economically minded will arrange for this flounce to be detachable eo that the garment will serve with several dresses. The number of undergarments worn by the fashionable woman must now surely have reached its minimum—silk combinations, a petticoat doin;°- triple duty, and an unlined dress; thats all. Although white, looks best under white, it seems there will be no objection during the coming summer if preference is expressed for wearing a Princess petticoat of a delicate colour and somewhat patterned, under a dress of white lawn or muslin or lace. Though there is little of the petticoats, yet a good deal of work is entailed, for there are panel effects slit open which have to be held together by insertions of open-work silk and ribbon strappings. Less and less material is used for upoer skirts and underskirts, but the prices do not accord. The less fabric there is the more we seem to have to pay.