THE SKETCHER

Otago Witness, Issue 1897, 12 June 1890, Page 35

THE SKETCHER

A LADY IN ANCIENT ROME. \ Who would believe it ? Laughing was taught young girls as an art in ancient Romel "If you have ugly teeth," says the master, " do not open your mouth too wide. Let two dimples play on your cheeks, and have a care to conceal your teeth by your underlip ! " I recommend ladies to try this before their mirror as our Roman lady is doing. Avoid frequent laughter, and let it be soft and melodious, like music. Weeping was also turned into an art. "Women should learn to weep with grace, then their tears add to their beauty." To weep gracefully, the tears should first glisten like dewdrops in the eyes, then one may trickle down the cheek. "No man can resistpsjjoh a sight I " says our poet. "A woman, wlio can weep well can obtain all she wishes." Artificial tears were obtained by rubbing the eyes with moist fingers. Roman ladies thought it very pretty to mutilate their words (a la Lord Dundreary) by omitting a letter, and stammering— and this, also, was one of their acquired arts. At one time it was fashionable to speak through the nose, and at another to drop the " r " in words. Walking was a very carefully studied and practised in Old Rome, a goddess-like walk being particularly studied. Bodily infirmities and deformities were frequently concealed by a careful and artistic walk. Roman ladies very rarely walked in the streets, however ; they were generally carried in a lectica, shaped like a sofa, with poles at each end and adorned with columns to which curtains were hung, to be opened or shut at the lady's pleasure. On this couch a feather bed and cushions "were placed for the lady to recline upon. This letica was carried on the shoulders of strong men, called octophores, who wore a red woollen livery. There were generally eight of them in the lady's attendance. They were never allowed to attend a funeral, even of their own masters, so as not to bring bad luck to those who remained. They came from Syria, and were perfect Hercules in strength. The litter was preceded by two African runners, dressed in white blouses, and silverjehains round their necks ;jjwhile at the back the Liburnians (a kind of policemen) walked, to keep the plebs at a respectful distance. These Liburnians were held in horror by the people, who would shout after them, " Procul, horridi Liburni I " Our lady plays with a crystal or amber ball, during this walk, and sometimes toys with a little tame snake, coiled round her neck. She also generally wears a veil over her face, or a half veil. Our present late dinner is the supper of Old Rome, which took place after the business of the day was over. Ladies took care to be late on going to parties, in order to create more effect when they made their entrance among the company already assembled. Knives and forks were not used at table in those days, and it required some art to eat neatly and daintily with the fingers. Before napkins (mappa) were introduced, bread used to be employed to wipe the fingers, and was then thrown to the dogs, which were always in numbers round the table. This custom illustrates the Scriptual saying that " the dog's eat the crumbs that fall from the children's table." During the Roman Empire, however, fine linen cloths for wiping the fingers were already known. Each guest brought his own napkin with him. Sometimes these napkins were exchanged between the guests as tokens of regard, and sometimes they were stolen ! Eich guest also was expected to be provided with his own toothpick. These toothpick 3 were made either of lentisea wood or of a bird's quill. During the dinner, slaves wafted fans of peacocks' feathers over the guests to keep away flies and to cool the air. We modern dinner givers and dinner eaters have no idea of the luxury displayed on a Roman dinner table. It passes belief. A Tiber mullet alone cost 2COO deniers. Birds were fed on aromatic herbs and seeds to make them more savoury, and cost £60 a piece, a dishful costing £1000 of modern money. Roman ladies had a passion for mushrooms. They preferred them to truffles. They were also particularly fond of pate de joie gras (turunda jecorea), that barbarous luxury being as well known in Old Rome as it is in our modern Babylons, the only difference in the method of fattening the geese being that figs were used instead of nuts. Sucking pigs were also in great favour with the Roman ladies. Olives were crunched during the whole dinner. Tunny fish and sardines were eaten before the regular dinner began, to give appetite, exactly as they are at the present day in Rome ; they were accompanied by mashed eggs. All dinners finished with a salad of lettuce.

About the middle of the dinner a glass of liqueur was handed round to the guests. There was a time, during the Roman Republic, when ladies were not allowed to drink wine or spirits. Mecennius killed his wife when he found her drinking wine, and was not punished for the act.

Ovid advised ladies never to eat as much as they felt they could eat, but he allows a little excess in drinking. "Wine," he says, " inspires cheerfulness. Drink, so long as your head and legs are firm, and you do not see double." Falerno of a hundred years of age is recommended to men, and they are urged to get drunk, and to pretend to be drunk, so that they may say what they please. I mention t this' because at this period of Roman history ladies remained at table to spur the men to drink. "Drink," they would say, "as many cups as there are letters in our names," and when this was done the same thing was proposed in honour of the absent. The poet gives his explanation of this debauchery by saying that the ugliest woman looks handsome in a drunken man's eyes.

After dinner, wine permitting, the party would go to the theatre. "Ladies," says that naughty poet again, "go to the theatre to see, but especially to be seen." Every lady is expected to be accompanied by a gentleman, to make way for her through the crowd. He arranges the cushions for her, places a stool under her feet, and fans her during the performance, for ladies did not fan themselves in those days. The seats of the theatre being graduated stone steps, the gentleman sees that his lady is not annoyed

by the knees of those behind him. During this time the lady talks with distant friends with her eyes, Lead, and fingers. The language of flowers was also known in ancient Rome, and adopted by the ladies in public, the theatre being Used especially for this purpose.

The theatre over, our lady returns home and proceeds to her room. She is tired, and desires to retire to bed. Roman beds were much like our own. The bedsteads were of carved wood, and the mattresses were laid on wide straps attached to the bedsteads. There was the bolster, and also pillows, sheets, and counterpanes — the latter were generally of a rich purple colour trimmed with fur. The pillows were made of feathers and Martial advises ladies to perfume the air at night, because the feathers of the pillow will retain the perfume even when the hair loses it. It is not certain that she will do this, but what is certain is that she will poultice her face with bread and milk. This precaution against a rough skin she never forgets.

The following day is our lady's birthday, and according to custom she gives an evening party to celebrate it. The invitations are sent by letter (litteris admonitus). As the hour approaches, the carruca (carriages) begin to arrive, and also the litters. The men prefer to go on foot. The fashionable part of Rome then was the Via Sacra, which is now being thrown open again. The whole front of the house this evening is ablaze with lights, and both sides of the door are open (portse pipatentes). Lanterns are on each side of the door and on each step of the stairs, and are alternated with violets and other flowers, which fill the air with perfume. There is a cloak room, where the ladies and gentlemen leave their overwraps and receive ivory tickets in exchange with a number on them. The usher then asks each guest's name, and announced it with a loud voice. The lady of the house does not receive her guests in the first room, but in the last room of all, where she stands, surrounded by all the oldest ladies of her acquaintance, " to make herself look younger," says Martial. Like the exterior of the house, each room is alight with thousands of wax candles on crjstal chandeliers, depending from the ceiling. Wax candles were used by the rich and tallow candles by the poor. Here is Martial's description of a fashionable young man of his time. Glossy hair, perfumery in abundance, a purple coat, languishing air, chest forward, polished legs, and rings on every finger. The Jadies all had perfumed hair, and garlands of flowers covered their heads and shoulders, and their dresses were covered with gold and precious stones. Ovid advises thin ladies to wear very puffy dresses, with a full cloak, falling from the shoulders. " White," he adds, "suits dark complexions, and black fair complexions." Again, "Little people should neither stand nor sit, but recline on a couch with a long robe to cover the feet." Then again, " Only those with beautiful shoulders should show them." Would that many modern ladies would follow this advice.

Roman ladies, it seems, showed more of their shoulders than Ovid liked, for he suggests some covering for them. Gloves were worn in Rome, but were not imposed on guests as now. Some ladies wore digitales, and some only manicse (mittens) ; while others wore neither gloves nor mittens. These, of course, were those who had the prettiest hands. Every lady, however, carried a handkerchief in her hands (sudarium). Every room on " party" occasions was saturated with perfumes from real flowers — fountains of perfumed water — and cassolets, on which all the perfumes of the Orient were kept burning. Even the artificial leaves of the wreaths on the guests' heads were perfumed au naturel. The most favourite perfume of all, however, was extracted from the Pestum roses. Men were as much perfumed as the ladies. But here we are at last in the hostess' presence. If you are an intimate friend you may shake hands with her ; if not you merely bow. You are expected, however, to be very complimentary, and praise her looks and dress. You cannot praise her too much, whatever her age may be, 17 or 71.

The birthday presents are all exhibited on a table — flowers, candlesticks, rings, silver dishes, green parasols, amber cups — all are there, with many other things, too numerous to mention. Poets brought verses to recite in the lady's house. These verses were loudly applauded, not by the guests only but by the freedmen, who stood at the furthest end of the room on purpose. This, it is thought, was the origin of the claqueurs in French theatres, who are called among themselves " Romains " (Romans).