THE SKETCHER. A FORTNIGHT IN CHINA.

Otago Witness, Issue 1813, 20 August 1886, Page 34

THE SKETCHER. A FORTNIGHT IN CHINA.

Scenes in the British Settlement.— View from "the Peak."— Up Canton River.— Chinese Couhtesy and Hospitality.—Flower Boats of Canton Street Scenes.— A Water Clock. The Formosa Channel, with its beautiful water views, is passed, but the sun is gone down before the port is sighted and all night we cruise about in the starlight not cariug to risk the chance of running upon some submerged rock or unfriendly island. The sun breaks its way through, next morning, through masses of gray clouds and the good steamer, after a month's journey, takes her winding course up the harbour. Granite cliffs are on every side overgrown with vines and low-growing, broad-leaved plants ; quarries "white and barren, show like scars on all . the hillsides and the sound of blasts echoes often over the smooth water. From these * uarries was taken much stone which now shows its face in San Francisco streets. HONGKONG. Pretty Italian-looking* country homes soon appear, and presently a turn in the course brings to view the harbour with its hundreds of steamships. The city like a second Genoa creeps up the mountain side, the peak of which of capped with clouds and the steep slopes cut and crossed by red roads. The earth where it has been marked by man has little more beautiful to show than his morning view from the Bay of Victoria, or as it is usually called from the name of the island, Hongkong. A fringe of brownBailed junks lies along the stone quay, floating lazily into the green water. Arches of buildings rise tier above tier, white weatherstained ■ or bluish gray, then in terraces above these peep out from groves of palms and ferns and broad-leaved bananas, snowwhite houses and brilliant gardens and gleaming marble of fountains, statue or balustrade. On the right lies Kowloon (with her. club house aud garden), just waking to the day's work, while in the distance, island after island, dim in the mist, rise, seeming to form a land-locked bay. The water is alive with junks and little sampans, the occupants of which crowd upon the steamer in great numbers seeking for patronage among their returned countrymen. The broad bamboo hat serve as signs, and on them are painted Chinese characters in large form. These people become so troublesome and clamorous, that they have to be driven over the vessel's' sides, and kept away by blows. Hongkong is hardly more Chinese in appearance than is San Francisco, all the houses being in European style. The gardens, public and private, are beyond description, the warm, moist climate added to the gardner's care, making them the ideal of cultivated luxriance. I know of no city in the world where one meets more nationalities. The Queen's Road runs quite through the city forming the' principal street, and a walk from one end to the other will show you the people from all pa»ts of the world. Taking an open chair borne by two coolies, I am carried at an easy gait along Queen's Road, passing the fine theatre and marble fountain. There are several large marble lions about this fountain and every time I passed I saw a coolie upon each lion's back, stretched out sound asleep careless of the sun. THE PROMENADEBS OF HONGKONG. My chair being let down near the cricket ground, I watch the passing crowd, for this is the hour when all who would see and be eeen come out upon this promenade. Policemen are everywhere; tall Sepoys, dark-faced and fierce-eyed, wearing huge turbans of scarlet and white ; good-looking, good-natured British with the regulation blue uniform, and then the Chinese with queer basket-hats and stout " billy " fastened to his belt. A Parsee gentleman, with the strange brimless hat, passes, touching his forehead twice as he salutes his friends ; by his side, in a private jiurikslia, with two coolies dressed in livery, is his wife or daughter — her costume one of the most graceful. A dress of some soft material of pearlgrey, unconfined at the waist hangs in natural folds from the shoulders, being draped a little from side to front and held by a loose jewelled band. A close-fitting white cap covers the head, and to this is attached a veil of filmy Indian silk, which gives itself to the breeze. A Mohammedan with flowing robes and a vivid red beard, so very red that I believe it must have been dyed ; two men wearing broad gold bands about the head and dressed in bright-colonred, embroidered silks (Siamese they avo) ; Portuguese priests and sisters of charity, Japanese women, gaily dressed and painted, pass and repass in jinriksha, chair and afoot, mingled with fashionably dressed Europeans, the ladies almost universally" carrying walking-sticks and looking bright and healthy. There are sailors with straw hats arid wearing swords at their sides, red-coated, white-trousered " Tommy Atkins," and marines continually ' saluting the seemingly ever present superior officers. A band is playing and on the parade-ground on the opposite side of the road a company of soldiers is drilling. Back upon the hill, among broad-grown banyan trees stands the great Cathedral, and from its square Gothic tower the boll sounds. The band plays " God Save the Queen," the Governor, hale and hearty old gentleman, is carried by, his four liveried coolies keeping even step. The crowd thins and, thinking of dinner, Hook no longer. THE PEAK. To ascend the peak is the one absolutely obligational excursion from the city ; it is as the Cliff House to San Francisco, Coney Island to New York, or Versailles to Paris. Just after an early breakfast a chair and four coolies are in readiness, and I start for the peak, which rises some fourteen hundred feet above the city. The chair is quite comfortable, made of bamboo aud with a green oil-cloth cover; it looks old though, and the beading poles creak ominously with every step of tho. men, who, with straw sandals to protect their feet from the hot pavement, move along vapidly till the road becomes steep, when tbey begin to pant and pun 3 and have to rest many times. The road for much

of the way is shaded by luxuriant, tropical trees and the stone walls are covered with fine ferns, moss and a purple morning-glory. We meet many coming down the road in private chairs and some afoot, for many of the people live quite high up on the sides of the mountain where in the severe summer there is always a pleasant breeze. There is a cable road in process of building, which will soon carry one to the summit in a few minutes. Passing beyond the shaded road, the city and harbour are constantly in view, Stone seats are found along the side of the way and from any of them one can have a picture which well repays all exertion. The bay is smooth as glass and all is as still as if it wereapainted picture ; not avessel moving, not a sign of life and the haze which fills the air adds to the appearance of unreality, giving the same effects as that obtained by using a Claude Loraine glass. The summit is barren as far as one can see, except of course just at the feet where the city lies embowered in the deep green foliage, not a tree is visible. A WAYSIDE RESTING PLACE, Coming down I stop for the men to rest at a wayside refreshment stand. Beneath a ' huge banyan tree sits an old Chinaman with several baskets of oranges and leichee nuts . on the ground beside him, and a portable ' stove of quaint form which holds a kettle of boiling water. About, in the coolest places, j sitting or lying in the easiest positions, are a j dozen or more natives, asleep or smoking and chatting. The colours are such as Murillo loved so much, and could his brush but etherealise the group, it would be a og.nvas worthy of having a place beside those we wonder at in Paris and Munich. Though the brush of Murillo be not here to improve the opportunity, there is surely chance ! enough for tooth, hair, and clothes-brushes to do great work in the etherealisation of such a group as seen* in reality. The tea, however, | is good, and I drink several bowltuls and make a sketch of the scene. The coolies almost run as we descend and the easy motion lulls me asleep, for the sun is now high and the air warm and sweet with the i odour of orange flowers and musical with the | hum of insects ; a sudden stop wakes me, and I I am soon within the cool hospitable rooms of the German Club, reading Beuter's telegrams of yesterday's Homo News. THE CHINESE QUARTERS AT HONGKONG. A stroll through the Chinese quarters after dark is not without interest, but has little more than can be seen any evening in the same quarter of San Francisco. After 8 at night (I believe that is the hour) no Chinaman, unless he has a pass, is allowed upon the street, and thus the whole aspect of the place is suddenly changed ; for though the streets be uncomfortably crowded and the noise and confusion almost unbelievable, in half an hour the streets are dark and deserted, a footfall echoing along the arcades even attracts the attention. Inside the shops one can see men working with oddly shaped tools cutting camphor-wood for chests. The only light they have is what can come from a bowl of oil in which a long cotton wick is floated. There is very little trouble now in the streets, though formerly quite common, for the police force is strong and one seems never to lose sight of a patrolman. The policeman is, always within call, a fast which can scarcely be credited by the new-comer used to the methods of American service. UP THE CANTON RIVER. But now I am to see a real Chinese city — all this time I have been fondly imagining myself in China, but learn my mistake. The air is sharp and cold this morning as I step on board the" Ho Nam, a fine, large river steamer, neatly furnished and with separate saloons for Europeans and Chinese. A stack of rifles stands at one end of our saloon; pistols on another side and a couple of cutlasses hang from a bracket. At each companionway, which is covered with an iron grating, and locked, stands a guard — fiercelooking fellows — Portuguese — armed with pistol. ci words and a broad knife. On the lower deck are the Chinese of the lower class, while the Europeans and the best Chinese are above. There has been seldom any trouble, so they say, butitis always possible; and since the late taking of the steamship Greyhound everybody thinks it best to be prepared. For some hours the scenery is dull and monotonous, flat, low banks and little to see save now and then a white porpoise. FIRST GLIMPSE OF REAL CHINA. Presently a tall Pagoda with some trees growing on it comes in sight, and is really the first genuinely Chinese bit I have seen ; [ the sight of it makes my heart best faster and brings to mind the picture in my first geography of long ago. Wherever Igo I am always looking for those old geography pictures and whatever reminds me of them j fills me with satisfaction. The distance to Canton is about ninety miles, but the usual ohannel having been filled with stones during the late war to prevent the French from reaching Canton by water, we are obliged to go slowly and stop for the tide to rise after going a little beyond the village of Watnpoa. A small steam launch, however, soon comes along side and lakes a few of us to the European Concession, a small island called the Shameen, where I first experience the charm of Eastern hospitality. A chair is in waiting and guide, provided by a thoughtful host, who has opened his house to me and makes the word " hospitality " seem larger than ever when interpreted so grandly, though all the claim I have upon him is that I am a stranger. CANTON. The view of the city from the liver, while yet it was in the distance, reminded me of the view of Cologne, the tall gothic spires o£ the Eoman Catholic Cathedral seeming to dwarf everything about it. By sampan (a small boat rowed by women) over the river to the Ho Nam suburb I visit the Monastery and hear the chanted service before the sacred figure of Buddha. rTere are the socalled "sacred animals"; but if I may judge from the manner in which the ragged little urchins 'who follow me about, poking up the sacred pigs Cor my benefit, I have little faith in the story. Small trees here grown into the forms .ol men have porcelain

heads, hands?,- and feet fastened to them, giving a grotesque effect. THE HOUSE OF A CHINESE MILLIONAIRE.

Near this monastry is the family house of Howqua, one of the oldest and richest families of this part of China. The guide proposes a visit and I willingly go. Entering a vast stone-paved court, where all is silent as death, I find myself among the monuments and tombs of ancestors. By winding alleys, all deserted, through gardens poorly kept' and showing that they must have once been very grand, I come to a large lotus pond, over which arc thrown pretty rustic bridges, and here and there are little open-work houses. From one of these comes out, walking slowly toward me, the only human being I have seen within the walls. He is of medium height, with a bright, intelligent face. His robe of sky-blue silk is rather soiled and faded, but the cap which covers his head is ornamented with a most I beautifully-carved coral. As he comes nearer he bows, clasping his hands and saying with most pleasant, welcoming voice : " Good-by, sir, good-by. Come in." The guide introduces me, and I learn this is Howqua himself. Through many pretty tea-houses and finally into the main building he leads me, and there I meet many others who are much move richly dressed, and all with greatest courtesy show me all there is of interest in the largo rooms where they live. As I leave, he laughingly gives me his hand and says, " Good-by, sir ; come in." " A FOREIGN DEVIL " IN CANTON. There are still some ruins of houses visible on the ■ hauneen whicl^recall the great riots of 1832 when the Europeans fled to the gunboats for protection until the Kmpercr sent his soldiers to their aid. The foreigner soon learns what the Chinaman has to bear when walking in American streets, for here the order is reversed, and as I am carried through the narrow lanes I am greeted with hard looks, words'and, once only, a missile. The favourite cry is " Foreign devil ! " and " Kill ! " but one soog sees thai this comes only from the very lowest stratum of the populace just as it is in America or any 1 other part of the world. I must say, though, that the treatment I received while wandering about Canton streets was more Christian than I dare to say a Canton gentleman ' would receive at the hands of the American sans-culotte. \ THE EXECUTION GROUND — AMONG THE PRISONERS. The Execution Ground is not just now in use, and potters use it to dry their clay in. In one corner are piled the cages and racks, the sight; of which sends a shudder through the frame. I enter the prisons where the rattling of chains is heard, as, loaded with them, the prisoners walk to and fro. Finding myself alone among them I try to get out, but am surrounded, the wretched creatures talking to me and pulling my clothes. My money, which I scatter about on the pavement, keeps them away for a time, and as I throw the last handful the keeper returns a.nd frees me. In a dark, damp cell arc a dozen or more men with the wooden collar or cangae about the neck which never allows them to rest, except standing, and tin's is worn for months in some cases. THOUGH THE STREETS OF CANTON. The streets are many of them no more than four feet wide aud wheeled vehicles are never seen, palanquins being the only mode of conveyance. One of these palanquins was of bright scarlet, and another I saw one morning covered completely with paper flowers and gilding, was occupied by a bride. The bridal palanquins are closed so tight that often the poor occupant is smothered. Examination Hall, a vast place, with cells for the students, is worth seeing, but dangerous to visit at limes. Old Men's Asylum, and one also for women, are btrange, uncanny places. Fortune-tellers and quack doctors in the court of the Temple of: Horrors accost me, but I have no care to tarry longer, and so hurry away. Many days are spent which are filled to overflowing with things of interest. PUBLIC BUILDINGS AND CURIOSITIES— A WATISB CLOCK. The Five-storey Pagoda is built on the city walls upon a hill, and from it a fine view of Canton is had with its graceful pagodas and elaborate temple roofs ; outside the walls are millions of graves, and among them,where a mosque has been, raised, is the burial-place of one of Mohammed's relatives. In one tall tower is a curious device for telling the time. Two large tanks, one above and just back of the other; in the lower tank is a sort of boat, with a mast which has numerous notches in it. The ,upP ol ' tank being filled with water ; the water is allowed to drop slowly into the lower tank, causing | the boat to rise, and thus enabling one to tell the time as the notches pass the edge of the tank, f ■'A 'painted board is hung out on the four sides of this tower at intervals, telling the time to those in the vicinity. This water clock and tower are very ancient. Blind persons, many together, walk with the right hand on the shoulder of the one in front, the foremost one carries i a stick and the others hold bowls in the left hand, begging, keeping up a monotonous | chant continually. The Flowery Pagoda and Great Gu}ld Hall are wonders of carving and valuable porcelain work. The famous edible birds' nesfcs are quite palatable, though to me a dish of soup containing Iceland moss would taste as well. One dines late in the East ; never before 8 o'clock is the dinner served, when certainly one appreciates it more than in the hot afternoon or early evening. A walk at sunset on the quay, or rather bund, of the island is a pleasant finish for a noisy day of sight-seeing. The huge banyans, with the brown rootlets, hanging like moss from the branches, grow along all the streets There is no sound of waggon wheels, and the streets are like lawns separating well-kept compounds, where rare flowers and old garden favourites oC America and England greet .one. In all this peacefulness one constantly has a view of the gun boats ever ready and the armed patrol. I'LOWER-BOATS OF CANTON. The flower-boats o£ Canton are world famous. They arc large junks or scowlikeboats with buildings upon them fitted up with much brilliant decoration and used by

the Chinese at the time of any special festivity, such as a marriage feast. On these, with music, dancing and refreshment, they float down the river of an evening, gorgeously illuminated with many coloured lanterns. Summer is the best time to visit these pleasure boats, but now they are interesting, though all moored together by the river bank. Late one night, after a visit to an opium palace several stories high, where there was much gold and glass and bamboo work, I wandered with my guide through the narrow, dark alleys, which were quite deserted, to the river, .where a sampan was waiting which took us down the stream to a collection of flower-boats. We walked from one to another, some being closed and others brilliantly lighted. In one sat several mandarins with long moustaches, playing some gambling game with the fingers. Passing over one boat where a young merchant was giving an entertainment, he saw me, and seeing that I was a stranger, kindly sent a messenger and asked m» to join in the festivities. Such gentlemanly courtesy I had not expected, and the music and refreshments he treated me with during the half hour of my stay, though not tuned to my ear nor favoured to my taste, were really the most acceptable marks of gracious hospitality I have received. Returning, I looked into some shops where coffins were being made. These coffins are all alike, being hewn from logs, the head being cut to represent a bursting bud. It is much conventionalized, however, but reminded me somewhat of the lotus bud. The white ants are the terror of Canton. Everything falls before them, and the account books of some of the large firms have, though locked up in iron safes, been known to disappear through their agency. One sees working women of the lower class with the little feet of which so much is written and said; this cramping of the feet is no more a sign of high birth or a | lady than is a 16-inch corset in America ; and one may see an ugly old hag mending nets on the dock, and her feet no larger than her great toe ought to be. Good-by Canton I The shops are all open and the people all busy again, but I am hurried along in my palanquin and on board the Hankow, which carries me with the swift current past Wampoa and the frowning forts to Hongkong, which, like an old friend, welcomes me to old scenes. Good-bye Hongkong — no, not good-bye, but aufwiedersehen. — Charles A. Gunnison, in the San Francisco Bulletin. |