THE TOURIST.

Otago Witness, Issue 1761, 22 August 1885, Page 8

THE TOURIST.

THROUGH THE KING COUNTRY WITH THE CAMERA.

A PHOTOGRAPHER'S DIARY.

No. IV.

June 4.— Rambling out this morning early into the Maori graveyard, in the course of my "meditations among the tombs," I came across one erected to the memory of some chief, no doubt, of super-excellent ferocity, that seized my fancy so much so that I felt I could not leave it behind — that is, unless I had its " counterfeit presentment " to console me; so as the light was still "non-actinic," it was arranged that our leader and my other friend, the artist, should push on towards civilisation, while thepackhorse train and self should follow on in due course.

Three miles or thereabouts from Te Kuiti is Te Kumi. This place and its people made some stir in our little world rather over two years ago. It will be remembered that three routes were suggested for the line to take that should connect Auckland with Wellington and the other centres of population. One was known as the Napier route, another as the New Plymouth, and the third as the Central. It was the last one — passing, as "has been noted in this •' Diary " through the very heart of the King Country — that was ultimately adopted ; but in March 1883 Mr C. W. Hursthouse was instructed by the Government to leave Kihikihi, and proceeding by way of Te Kumi to ascertain if a practical course for the second of these _ lines- could be found. Just before reaching Te Kumi Mr Hursthouse, who was accompanied by one white man and a number of friendly Maoris, was stopped by a band led by f» Mahuki, pulled from his horse, carried to the village and there shut in a cookhouse, together isvith his white companion. Their hands were securely tied and trace-chains wound round tfcheir ankles. In a short time a disturbance was iheard outside, and, the door suddenly opening for a moment, a Maori named Te Haerae, one of the friendlies, was hurled in. Nearly 48 hourg they lay there, clothed only in shirts and drawers, without food, and for the greater part of the time without fire and subject to indignities I need not write, but which make my blood boil to hear of. On the third day friendly Maoris came in such force to the rescue that Te Mahuki dared not resist. Very shortly after, however, he gathered his followers together, and marched to Alexandra, announcing to his people that as soon as they peached the township their pakeha enemies fall down before him. They made a bra^ e show *" they entered Alexandra; but they itf*d e rather a pitiful one when the Armed Constabulary quickly surrounded them and made prisons °* *^ c whole band and conveyed them" to Auckland when they were duly tried before JuJge Gilb.es, and sentenced to various terms oi imprisonment, I secured a view of the village, Rowing the whare where Mr Hursthouse was imprisoned; and afterwards, after some demur, induced the arch* .•scoundrel Te Mahuki himself, and his hench-. ,mtn, Paru Kau, to make a picture for the ►camera. Our last stopping place before reaching ;Kihik&i and civilisation was to have been a ■place c£%d Marae-o-hine, but calling at Haerefhuka,;some four miles short thereof, and finding ,a gathering of great Maori swells there, rwas easily .induced to accede to a pressing [invitation to stay .the night. Haerehuka, it • may be noted,- is close to Otorahanga, on the YVVaipa, where a, telegram ,^-gpelt as to names), .-appearing a few day's after vpy return home, told 'the public that .shotty gpld had been pfound. A polite request that I wp\Vi£ pome idnto the whare-koniiti to " 4 o'clock tea/ gfvVP

me an opportunity of meeting a number of the Maori aristocracy, some of them men who have made their mark in colonial history. Here were Rewi (Manga), the great Ngatimaniapoto chief ; Wetere te Reringa and Te Rangituataka, chiefs of Mokau* Tainui, our host ; Te Haerae, companion of Mr Hursthouse's imprisonment, who now enjoys a pension from Government, awarded as a solatium for his sufferings on that occasion; Te Naunau, Wliitinui, Tawhana, and others of greater or less celebrity. It is unnecessary to say that in my introduction to these gentlemen I felt no uneasiness as to their past record. Government has condoned, by, I believe, an allincluding amnesty, any little over-zealous acts that were done in the now dim past ; and where a Native Minister can shake hands and be " Hail, fellow, well met !" it does not become a humble photographer to hold aloof, for although years ago

Aye, and since too murders have been performed

Too terrible for the ear ; and though even among those present there might be men who had "assisted" in more than the " French sense," I felt that such as these were questions of State, and that my business was just to take photographs, and to leave such weighty matters alone. Rewi was dressed in a suit of grey dittos, with a shawl round his shoulders. The other chiefs had, more or less, adopted European costume. Another sign of the times ! For it is evident that the true Maori dress is doomed, and that the korowai and even the blanket must soon give place to shirt and pants all over the country. Having such noted personages as sitters, of > course I was "at it" as long as light would serve. The usual Maori hospitality — that is, when they are hospitably disposed- — was shown, and we pakehas were comfortably housed in a building that exhibited the advance of ideas in the Maori mind. The walls were of raupo, but there were glazed windows, and the door was nearly high enough for a middle-sized man- to enter without stooping. There was. a chimney and fireplace, as in the whare-komiti; but I noticed that in the latter building the good old Maori custom of a fire in a hole in the centre of the floor was preferred to the chimney. An iron bedstead — the only one — was apportioned to me, but as there was nothing between my bones and the laced iron bands under me except a blanket, I somewhat sympathised with the countryman in London in the last century, who, treated to a "ride" in a Sedan chair without a bottom, declared that "if it were not for the honour of the thing, he would as lief walk." The Maori game of poi (ball) has been brought before the public lately in connection with some utterances of the great Maori prophet Te Whiti, and here for the first time we saw the girls playing poi. The ball is made of rauj)o, is moderately soft, and is attached to a string. It is rather a "fetching" thing to see a pretty Maori lass — an adept in poi — throw the ball about in all directions, now striking her hands, now her bosom; now jerking it over one shoulder, now over the other, then upon her lap, and all to the sound of music ; same music being beaten out of a tin baking dish. There was to-night some hint of a haka, but as the girls after a few steps — pretty fairly suggestive of what the complete business might have been

— did not seem to get into the spirit of the thing, we wisely sought our blankets, and prepared ourselves for a good day's work and ride to-morrow, the last before we should cross the Aukati line and get back among " oor am folk."

June 5. — Leaving Taonui's whare-komiti at Haerehuka, we pushed on without further stoppage, and in the course of a few hours, first three-rail fences, and then ploughed fields, with glimpses of farms and farmhouses greeted our gladdened eyes. The last few miles we did at a gallop ; and so much had I improved in my horsemanship that a spin into Kihilrihi as fast as my horse could go won for me encomiums from the dare-devil Maori guide, Henaki, who was the only one "in at the death " when we drew rein at the Star Hotel, in Kihikihi. How I enjoyed my first square meal, and how I luxuriated" in an English bed, need not be told. These two comforts can only be adequately described by an adjective which we had used as a test word of Maori pronunciation all through our journeyings with most laughable results in the various attempts made by men, women, and children — and that word is " scrumptious." Should any of my readers ever travel in the heart of Maoriland, let them try it if they desire a little fun.

June 6. — Kihikihi is a European township (this is information for Southern readers only) despite its ultra-Maori name. It boasts three hotels, stores in abundance, and, above all, it is on the telegraph-line. But there is a special interest attaching to it, for it is in view (as the camera can prove if called as a witness) of the battlefield of Orakau. Here the combined Waikatos andNgatimaniapotos made their grand final stand under the fighting chief Rewi, on which occasion he declared that he would never surrender, adding emphatically in his native tongue " ake ! alee ! ake ! " which very freely translated may mean that "he would see the Pakeha Sir Joseph Portered first." He now enjoys a fine house opposite the Star Hotel, provided by a considerate Government, together with a pension of £210 a year. Ahem !

One result of my little journeyings through the King Country has been to beget the suspicion that, after all, the great Native difficulty question has been used very much as a bogey ; that^ in fact, had it not been for certain interests involved in its continuance, it would have been solved long ere now. However this may be, it is the opinion of all whose opinion is entitled to respect with whom I have come in contact, that the' Maori difficulty is now as " dead as the Doges," and that it is only by the grossest mismanagement that any further trouble can ever arise.' The only place where any mischief can be brewed is Parihaka, and such can only be local and temporary, cut off as this district is from the rest of Maoridom by the railway. Besides, any rising at all, even there, is directly oppbsed to " Parihaka Tikanga " ; or, in other words, the policy of Te Whiti. That astute old pseudo-prophet knows the weakness of his countrymen and recognises also the strength of the pakeha. The knowing ones I met in Kihilrihi ridiculed the idea of the old fox being such a fool as to embroil himself with the Government. As a specimen of the stuff with which he amuses his followers, I was told that he recently promulgated as a truth his discovery (after a course of Old Testament reading, I suppose) that " Abraham had actually landed at Patea, and, before leaving again, set up his son there in business." [In the " old clo' ' line I wonder ?] This, of course, proves, beyond cavil, the illustrious descent of the Maori race. It is the opinion, I gathered, of my informants, that for some time to come alarmist articles may be expected to appear in Northern newspapers, but that experts will be able in every case to trace them to the inspiration of jealousy or land-jobbing. My work being now donehaving carried my camera through the whole length of the King Country— naturally I wanted to get back to my beloved Dunedin, but I felt

that I must stay a little longer and secure some " subjects " in Whatiwhatihoe, the present location of the Court of the Maori King. Accordingly I drove over to Alexandra, which is within a mile of the regal village. My companion was that very Mr Hursthouse who was chained up in Te Kumi, so I had the great advantage of the corroboration from his own lips of the account of that business I had already learned. During the journey I asked him if he were any relation to the Mr Hursthouse whose name I had been familiar with as a lecturer and writer upon New Zealand more than a quarter of a century ago. He said, yes, he was, and that same relationship had nearly brought him into trouble in Canterbury some years back. He went on to relate the anecdote. (It may be premised that Mr Hursthouse is a gentleman " more than common tall," and of almost burly presence.) A cock-spavrow of a man came up to him and said, " Pray, are you any kin to that (First Lord — hem !) scoundrel who wrote that (First Lord, again !) book? He pleaded guilty to the softimpeachment, when his interlocutor went on to say, " Then I have a great mind to smash you !" Mr H. good humouredly asked why ? when the irate Zaccheus said, " Why ! didn't he induce me to come out to this (First lord, again !) country, where I have been burnt out, and nearly drowned three times !" To which Mr Hursthouse replied, " Well, it seems to me that you are a wonderfully lucky fellow !" " How's that? How's that?" excitedly asked the other. " Because, if you had remained in the Old Country you might not have escaped hanging three times, you know ! C®me ! Let's have a drink !" The bellicose little man's features relaxed, and peace was concluded on this basis. Within 200 or 300 yards of Alexandra may be seen to this day remains of the fortifications raised more than 60 years ago to resist the conquering progress of the chief Hongi. It will be remembered that that worthy, early in the twenties, visited England, and was duly introduced at Court. As a suitable present the king, George IV, of blessed memory, gave him a number of muskets. Hongi, on his return, armed his followers with them, and made a grand triumphal progress through the country; and this place — a pah situated at the junctien of the Waipa river and a creek whose name has escaped me — was the scene of one of his exploits. Of course, in spite of the entrenchments and the valour of the defenders, muskets carried the day. What those entrenchment must have been originally, the ruins of the triple line of earthworks still remaining after the destructive influence of more than 60 years of wind and weather, give something like a faint idea.

June 7. — On our way to Whatiwhatihoe we called at Wahanui's. This gentleman made a public appearance in an entirely new character a few weeks ago, when he assisted the Premier in the arduous duty of cutting the first sod of the Central railway, near Te Awamutu. Wahanui is popularly supposed to be rather a Maori Machiavelli ; and though he lives — like Rewi — in a house provided by a paternal Government, and enjoys, I believe, a pension, he is very jealous of the maintenance of his mana among his own people. Hence, he felt constrained to refuse the offer of a seat in the Legislative Council. But I must not be led into politics : out came the camera, and soon portraits of Wahanui himself, his wife, his son, and all his following were added to my series. At Whatiwhatihoe we interviewed Tawhiao, who was clad iv the earlier part of the day, more Maori, in a blanket, but in the afternoon appeared in a pot hat and a suit of solemn black. We had to lament a falling off from our ideal of the manneri which should distinguish the ladies of a Court, for, truth to tell, the conduct on the part of the women we found so objectionable in the Hauhau village of Utapu — the salutation de derrib'e — was repeated here under the very shadow of the throne.

June 10. — Now I think I may fairly consider my work to be done; so, with a calm joy I take a ticket at Te Awamatu for Auckland, and on June 17 1 reach Dunedin again, after just nine weeks' absence, to receive the congratulations of my friends upon the realization of 'a dream of years [What a small ambition suffices some minds!] in the photographic illustration of " The Maori at Home."

Alfred H. Burton.

Tuapeka County Council.

The above-named body met for the transaction of business in the County Chambers, at Lawrence, on Friday last. The following members were in attendance, viz. : Messrs Bennet (chairman), Clayton, M'Farlane, Oudaille, Smith, Fraser, Cameron, and Cotton.

The minutes of the previous meeting were read and confirmed.

CORRESPONDENCE,

J. J. Woods (returnlng-officer for Gabriel's riding) wrote intimating that Mr Michael had resigned his seat for Gabriel's riding, and that on the day fixed for the nomination two candidates were proposed — viz., Alexander M'Nab and E. Varcoe. The latter had since withdrawn from the contest, and he (Mr Woods) had declared Mr M'Nab elected to fill the vacancy.— M'Nab, who was in attendance, was introduced by the Chairman to the councillors present, and took bis seat at the table.

J. C. Brown, M.H.R., wrote enclosing a letter from the Minister of Mines to the effect that the request of the Tuapeka County Council for the use of one or more boring-rods cannot be complied with, for the reason that there are no boring-rods in charge of the Mines Department. — Received.

Thos. Haining (Greenvale) reminded the council that nothing had as yet been done to the formation of the road-line leading to block XIII, Greenvale district. — It was ordered that the surfaceman attend to the work at a cost not exceeding £5.

The Under-secretary for Public Works wrote acknowledging receipt of letter enclosing resolution of County Council re railway extension to Roxburgh, and intimating that instructions had been given for inquiries to be made with a view of ordering a preliminary survey of the proposed line.— Received.

Murdoch Gillies (secretary of the Tapanui School Committee) requested that the footpath fronting the school be gravelled. — Resolved, on the motion of Cr M'Farlane, that the work be attended to at once.

The Assistant-engineer of the Public Works Department desired to know when the piers and abutments of the Beaumont bridge would be completed, with a view of having the work inspected and taken over on behalf of the Government. — The Chairman said that the contractor would be finished on Monday next if the weather continued fine. — It was resolved to write to the Public Works Department to that effect.

Stanons Daniell, on behalf of H. Bruce, J. Brown, and himself, wrote asking the council to have portions of road-line in block I, Waitahuna West, put up for sale by auction. The Balmoral Road Board had taken the initiatory steps, but failed to offer the land for sale. — On the motion of Cr Fraseb, it was resolved to write to the

Balmoral Road Board and Bruce County Council for information regarding the closing of the road-line referred to, and if the law had been complied with, the land to be offered for sale to the adjoining land-owners. G. S. Cooper (Colonial Secretary's office) informed the council that, with reference to the boundary road between the Balmoral district and the Tuapeka Couuty, it would be necessary to petition in the usual manner, under section 7 of the Counties Act, if it were deemed necessary to alter the existing boundary. — Cr Fbaser moved— "That Mr J. C. Brown, M.H.R., be asked to get a clause inserted in -the 'Counties Act to meet the difficulty." — Cr Clayton suggested that, as a matter of courtesy, the chairman write to the Balmoral Road Board to ascertain what could be done in the matter. — Cr Fbaser remarked that the Balmoral Road Board were prepared to expend £50 on the road if the Tuapeka County Council would expend a like amount, but this could not be done, as the road was not in the Tuapeka County. — Cr M'Farlane seconded the motion, which was carried.

J. C. Brown, M.H.R., forwarded a letter from the Minister of Public Works, intimating that the question of granting £1500 to the County Council for the re-erection of the Waitahuna traffic bridge would be considered when the Estimates were being prepared. — Received.

EVANS PLAT BRIDGE. Ryan and Scott (contractors for the bridge at Hopkins' crossing) wrote enclosing schedule of work done and details of amounts claimed by them ; also, showing the amount still due to be £187 4s 2d.

Cr Oudaille inquired if Mr Smaill had left the office without furnishing the amount still due to the contractors in connection with tie bridge.

The Chairman submitted a statement furnished by the engineer showing the cost of erecting the bridge and approaches to be £1674 17s lid. He (the chairman) felt satisfied in his own mind that the cost of erecting the bridge and approaches had exceeded £2000. Cr Cameron moved to the effect that the engineer's cash-book be laid on the table before anything further was done.— On the book being produced, Mr Cameron remarked that some of the leaves had evidently been cut out. There was not an item in the book, 44 pages of which had been excised.

After some discussion it was resolved, on the motion of Cr Clayton, that Ryan and Scott's account be referred to the Public Works Committee, who were authorised to examine Messrs Smaill, Kelly, and the contractors with reference to the disputed items.

WATSONS'S BUSH ROAD. A petition, bearing the signatures of 46 settlers, residents of Tuapeka West and Tuapeka Mouth, was received, praying the council to make a passable road into Watson's Bush, the cost of which was estimated at £60. A deputation, consisting of Messrs Duffy, Lyson, and M'lnernay, appeared in support of the petition. After the deputation had fully pointed out the necessity of the work,

Cr Clayton moved— "That the request of the petitioners be acceded to, the work to be constructed out of the deferred-payment money due to the Brown's riding." Cr Fbaseb seconded the motion. Cr Oudaille said that in the interest of th ratepayers the council should apply to the Minister of Lands for a sum of money to make this road, as it would benefit the whole district, The Chairman remarked that the money was granted by Government to make the road to Remarkable Bush and also into Waipori Bush. r

Mr Oudaille suggested that his recommendation be added to the motion.

Mr Clayton agreed to the suggestion. He would like that immediate action be taken in the matter. The motion was carried. GENERAL BUSINESS.

Accounts for the month of July, amounting to £2034 14s, were passed for payment. The county clerk submitted a return showing the expenditure on county works for June month to be as follows :— Lower ridings', £486 5s Id ; upper ridings, £301 10s ; Government votes (road Beaumont to Miller's Flat, £196 8s ; Beaumont Bridge, £1051 11s 2d), £2035 14s 3d;— total, £2823 9s 4d.

It was decided to give the Teviot puntman two months' leave of absence, owing to his having met with an accident.' Mr Malonewas temporarily appointed to fill the vacancy.

THE EX-COUNTY ENGINEEB. Before going into committee to consider the applications for the position of county engineer, surveyor, &c.,

Cr Cameron said that as he was not present at last meeting he would like to know what correspondence had taken place between the conncil and the engineer regarding the application for money under the Roads and Bridges Construction Act.

The Chairman stated that Mr Smaill had declined to go on with the plans, and on being again asked said that he would 'not see the council in a fix, and would prepare the plans for the £5000 under the Roads and Bridges Construction Act for 1J per cent. The council agreed to this, payment to be made six months after the plans were prepared. The Clerk read the letter to Mr Smaill intimating that his offer had been accepted, and that the amount was in addition to his salary. Cr Cameron : In the present state of the council's finances, the charge is exorbitant. Would not Mr Smaill have had to draw up these plans if he had been nstructed to do so during the time he was in the employ of the council ? The Chairman said that the plans had been prepared in 1882, except for two bridges (one at Waipori and the other at Poison's Creek), and yet the engineer charged for plans that were already prepared.

Cr M'Nab: Was the engineer drawing his salary when he demanded 1J per cent. The Chairman replied in the affirmative. Cr Cameiion asked if the council were in possession of a theodolite, so that intending applicants could utilise it if they required one. The Chaibman said that the council had borrowed a set of surveyor's instruments from the late district engineer (Mr Arthur), but Mr Smaill had taken them away. He communicated with Mr Smaill about them, and he said he didn't know who had charge of them. Mr Smaill afterwards showed him (the chairman) a telegram he had received from the late Mr Arthur, adivising him to forward the instruments to him. The Chairman found that in June 1878, the council granted £50 for. a set of instruments, but the Government at that time lent a set to the council.

Cr Cameeon moved—" That Mr Smaill be requested to return the instruments forthwith to the council."— Cr M'Farlane seconded the motion, which was carried.

Cr M'Farlane moved — "That the late county engineer be asked to return the leaves cut out of the account book."— Cr Clayton seconded. — Carried.

The council went into committee to consider the applications for the poat of engineer, &c.