What I saw in America.

Otago Witness, Issue 1240, 4 September 1875, Page 21

What I saw in America.

By the Rev. Bb. Coplakd, Duxbdix.

No. V. Mostreal.—lts F»en««h Aspect, Chvhchbs, Houses. Oti reaching the railway station at Montreal, and being conducted by my friend who was waiting for me to hw bttggy, I was not a little surprised to hear him address his man who was in charge of it in French. Remembering that I was in a British colony, and that my friend was a native of Britain, I was not pre- { tared for this— notwithstanding nvy know* edge of the multitude of French Canadians who were settled in the regions further down the river. I would" not have been astonished to meet with any of the choice specimens of Hone-Latin with which aome sportive individuals have enriched our language— such as omnibus, a conveyance for all ; minibus^ a conveyance for a fW } tandem, an arrangement of two horses nt length— but I did not expect to hear the French language laid under contribution in connection with our drive .to my friend's home. 1 soon discovered that a large portion of the labouring classes in Montreal are of French descent, and that it is necessary to speak to them 'in their own tongue. Nearly all the

familiar with ib. Montreal was originally a French colony, and the circumstances connected with its first settlement are j worthy of being mentioned. Unlike the small band of "Pilgrim Fathers" who landed on Plymouth Rock in 1020 in search of freedom to worship God according to their consciences — and still more unlike the common race of more recent colonists who leave their country in the hope of improving their worldly circumstances, the founders of the French colony had in view mainly the extension of their religion among the Indians who iuhabited the surrounding country. Two or three I sensitive or superstitious individuals in France, declared they heard voices from B>aven, and saw visions of the Saviour and the Virgin Mary calling on them to found a hospital and a college for priests on this island. They succeeded in enlisting the active sympathy of several noblemen, and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. The island was purchased, and at a religions service in the Cathedral of Paris, in February, 1041, they consecrated the Island to the Holy Family under the name of Vilfa Marie de Montreal. They reached Montreal in Vay of the following ye.ir, and at the close of a solemn service, held soon after they arrived, the priest uttered these prophetic words, " You are few, but your %rork is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your seed shall fill the land." In 1700, after Quebec had surrendered to the British, Montreal was taken by ! Lord Amherst, who had a large force with him of 17,000 men. The population was then about 4000. The British Government provided that the French should be secured in the possession of all their endow ments of land which they held for the benefit of their religious institutions — that the settlers should continue to hold their lands under their ancient tenure, and continue as far as practicable to enjoy their ancient laws, customs, and language. I This leads to many peculiarities which ! sixike a stranger. In looking at the public announcements posted up in the streets or markets, you find they are printed b <th in English and French. In ; Parliament, the speakers are allowed to addrefs the House either in English or Fx'ench, as. they prefer. The operation of French law is seen especially in the custom of dividing heritable property in equal proportions among the children of the deceased. In consequence, you find that the farms which must originally have been of some reasonable extent, have now, after the lapse of two centuries, dwindled clown through perpetual subdivision to very small bits, about an acre, or half, or even a quarter of an acre. Yet these little freeholds, each with a small wooden cottage of no great value, are highly pi izrdhy the owners, so that, as I was told, they would not part with their paternal quarter of an acre for a great deal more than its now vastly increased market vaiue. Whether it be from the genius of the French people, or the peculiar influence of their religion, it is the fact that the French settlers — although having every advantage in their being first on the gronnd — have not advanced with the increased prosperity of the country. They are to a large extent the class that you see employed in the more menial and laborious occupations. Montreal is built on an island about 30 miles long and eight or ten in breadth, at the confluence of the river Ottawa with the St. Lawrence. The city lies on the southern side of the island, between the St. La*reive ar.d Mount Royal. When Carter landed here in 1535, he found an Indian village called Hochelaya. He ascended the mountain which forms the background of the present city, and from 'I;he fcplendid view which it afforded, stretching over the island and across the rivers that bound it, he called it Mont Heal, or in English Mount Beal. From this the name has been extended both to the city and the island. The hill is about 750 feet high, and has apparently been completely covered with wood, which is partially cleared. The Ottawa flows | along the northern side of the island, and encircles another island called Isle Jesu. The portion of the Ottawa that joins the St. Lawre* cc above the island <»f Montreal is said to flow along the southern side of the island in a distinct stream, alongside of the St. Lawrence, sn that some regard it and speak «»f it as still retaining its identity as the Ottawa. This peculi° arity seems to have a hold of the Canadian mind in respect to other rivers as well, which fora a junction with the St. Lawrence, as in the case of the Charles River below Quebec. The idea, however, of regarding as too distinct rivers a body of water which flows between the same banks is rather subtle for ordinary geographical purposes, notwithstanding the fact that the different colour of the two streams may still continue to be distinguished after they have so united. It raises a question of identity as difficult to settle as that which was raised in connection with Sir John Walkinshaw's silk stockings, which were said to have been darned bo frequently by his careful housekeeper with worsted, that at length they'retained none of the original silk threads which had entered into their composition, and the question arose in some metaphysical minds, whether or not the/ were the same silk stockings, and, if different, at | what fc'aVa in their history they had lost f their original identity. For practical | purposes therefore I understand the river on the southern side of the island aa the St. Lawrence.

The city is laid out in pretty regular blocks—the principal streets lyiog parallel with the river -which are intersected by others at right angles. Along the banks of the river the city is protected by exUmva irhmet fomtf witb walls of. sojid.

masonry, composed of gray limestone, which is got from quarries in the neighbourhood. These extend for two or three miles, and resemble much the wharves at Liverpool and Paris, on the banks of their respective rivers the Mersey and the Seine. There is, however, this difference, that the Montreal wharves are built in the form of terraces, so that when the river rises beyond its usual height it imiy not overflow it 3 banks. This is especially necessary on account of the vast rise of the river after the ice begins to melt. Then the river extends its area and the lower wharves .ire compJe'e'y covered. The vast masses of ice that come crushing down, bear away resisth-ssly everything that stands in their way. Even tlie iron posts that are fixed on the sides of the wharves to support the chain that serves as a fence must be removed at the approach of winter, or else the ice would clear them off. The large amount of ship - ping that comes up to Montreal during the summer must all clear out before the frost sets in, else it would remain firmly impacted in the ice all winter, and on its breaking up be in danger of being smashed into piece 3. Notwithstanding all the care that is taken, sometimes the river rises to such a height as to flood the ?treet3 in the lower parts of the city, so that some friends whose business premises are locate I there, told me they have sometimes been under the necessity of traveling to them in boats along the streets. Th*> city bears everywhere the sure indications of great prosperity and enterprise. It coe tains a larger number of imposing and tos'ly public buildings than may be seen in any other city of its size in America. These are for the most part built of the gray limestone which abounds in the island. Most of the private houses are of brick. They are built in general after a pimilarplan,notwithstandingthe difference in adornment which may be seen outside. They are four stories in height, while the breadth is generally r.xlhor" small in proportion. The basement story is frequently sunk a foot or two below the level of the street, and the entrance for the servants and messengers is usually here. The chief entrance for the family and visitors is by an oufside stair which leads to the «tory above, where the dr«iwing-roon\ is situated. This usually extends from the front of the house to the back, and is divided by folding doors, so as to form one or more apartments at will. The dining-room is on the basement story. Above the dinirg-room are the bed-rooms, and in the fourth story you may find a rrom appropriated to baeatelle or smokintr. The reason of this kind of arrangement, wh : ch is very general both here an 1 in many of the clubs of America, seems to be not merely the value of ground, which leads them to economise it, but the convenience it affords for thoroi'.ghly heating every part of the house in winter. Many of the principal rooms are furnished with register grates as with us, fires are placed in them, while the temperature is of a moderate degree ; but when winter fairly sets in, these fires are found to be of little use. A large stove, or furnace as it is callpd, placed in the basement stoiy, or in the haU of the floor above, is then lighted up. From this pipes connected with it traverse every room in the house, and maintain a comfortable a^d equable warmth throughout. Double windows are generally used. By such appliances within doors, and the general use of fur garments protecting every pnrfc of the Person when they go outside, they succeed in bearing their hyperborean winters without inconvenience, and even with much enjoyment. Skating, tobogganing, and sleighing, afford ample exercise and amusement outside ; while tteir social parties, with abundance of music and .lancing, in which they delight, peem to enliven their long nights within. Judging from the specimens of parties which 1 attended during ray brief stay in the city, they take delight in gatherins together a much larcer number of guests at a time than we ."honld usually meet with under similar circumstances at home. For n. very quiet and unostentatious tea and supper. I found about 40 or 00 guests asipmbled.* They moved about freely, talking together in little c mpanies as inclined, while music of various kinds occasionally lent its aid. Thereafter snpper followed in close array in the dininar-rooin below. I may mention here that the teetotal movement has gained a very strong hold of the Canadian mind, at least of the religious portion of the community. I suppose that nearly all the clergy are strong supporters of it. On account of the great, extremes of temperature which prevailed — summer being excessively hot, while the winter is as exiremely cold — the pianos which are used are very different from those we are familiar with here. They are of oblong shape, as large as grand pianos, but of heavier build. They require to be made of wood most thoroughly seasoned, and they usually cost from 500 to 800 dollars— that is, from £100 to £160 sterling. The multitude of large and splendid churches which are sem in every part, of the city keep the stranger in mind of its ecclesiastical origin. Althoitirh the population has increased to about 125,000, three-fourths of them are Roman Catholics, and their churches are the largest and costliest of any. The vase landed estate acquired by them at the beginning they have managed with great care. Instead of selling, or even leasing as building stances, the ground which they hold in the city, they have built large business premises, such as are in demand, and let or lease them. In this way they '< draw an immense revenue, which is pro* !

Notre Dame, of Gothic architecture, bears some resemblance to the Parisian Cathedral of that name, having two lofty towers in front, 213 feet high. It is 255 feet in length, and H4 feet in breadth, and was built at a cost of £80,000. It has seats on the floor for 8000, and in the galleries for 2000 more. In one of the towers there is a chime of bells, and in the other the largest bell in America, called " Gros Bourbon" is suspended. It was cast in London by Mears, and weighs nearly l(j tons. The Church of the Jesuits is richly adorned in the interior with finely carved composite pillars. At the junction of the nave and transept are statues of the four Evangelists, with their characteristic symbols which painters and sculptors of ecclesi astical subjects seem to have universally agreed upon — Matthew with an ox, Mark with a lion, Luke with a child, and John with an eagle. There are also fine frescoes on the walls and ceilings ponrtraying scriptural subjects, and others for" the exposition of which one would need to refer to the "Lives of the Saints."'

A new Catholic Cathedral is now in course of erection, which is fashioned exßctly after the plan of St. Peter's in Rome, but on a reduced scale. According to my judgment, it appears to be n mistake. While the original plan is suited to the colossal dimensions in which it is executed at Rome, and, from its simplicity, allows the contemplative beholder gradually and slowly to feel the impression of vastness and sublimity which accords so well with the purpose to which the structure is dedicated, I do not think that the same plan is suited to the contracted dimensions which obtain here. It was, however, not entered upon without clue consideration, as the Bishop, I understand, made a visit to Rome for the special purpose of determining it. The Church of England is well represented by its ecclesiastical edifices. Christ Church Cathedral is said to be the best representative of English Gothic architecture in America. Trinity Church accommgdates four thousand sitters.

There is quite a group of churches of different kinds situate about Beaver Hall Hill. Of these Zion Church should hold a prominent place in the annals of Montreal. It was here that Gavazzi lectured against the Roman Catholic Church in 1853, and produced such a commotion that- an armed mob attacked the church, determined to wreak their vengeance on him. The congregation assembled inside had come armed for the conflict, and the result was a furious encounter. Gavazzi who was the special object of attack, was suiTonnded on the platform/ and nobly performed the duties of a chairman in seeking to restore order, after a somewhat novel manner. Seizing a chair as his weapon, he brandished it around, and occasionally brought it to bear -with decided effect on the heads of his assailants. The congregation succeeded in driving back the mob twice, but the conflict did not terminate till the troops arrived on the scene. No less than 40 men were left on this battle-field, either killed or seriously wounded, and perhaps had Thomas Fuller —the Prebend of Salisbury—lived to describe it. he might have fitly represented it, in terms closely resembling those in which he portrayed a terrible catastrophe that befel a Catholic corgregation in Blackfriars :—": — " The sermon began to incline to the middle, the day to tho end thereof, when on a sudden the floor fell clown whereon they were assembkd. It gave no charitable warning groan beforehand, but cracked, broke, and fell all in an instant Many were killed, more bruised, all frightened. Sad sight to* behold the blood" of different persons minsrled together, and the brains of one on the head of another. One Jacked a leg, another an arm, a third whole and entire, wanting nothing but breath, stifled in the ruins." In close proximity to Zion Church stands the lofty Church of the Messiah, belonging to tho Unitarian body, and a Baptist Church. Here also is St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church (of which the Rev. Gavin Lang is minister) in connection with the Established Church of Scotland.

The meetings of the newly formed Evangelical Alliance of the Dominion were goin^ on in this Church when I arrived. I was in time only to witness the proceedings of the last day. Some able and interesting addresses were given. „ The attendance was large, and showed that very general interest was felt in the movement. An address delivered by Dr McCosh of Princeton, in reply to Professor TyndalVs Inaugural address to the British Association at Belfast which has excited so much discussion everywhere, was masterly aad crushing. ProfessorMurray followed with an able address on a kindred topic, and the Rev. Mr Gibson of Chicago, formerly settled in Montreal, an able man, of whom I expect to hear morejinthe world of letters and philosophy —at once commanded the attention of the meeting with a paper in which he sought to show that the Evangelical doctrines of religion are alone entitled to be regarded as rational in opposition to tho views of a sceptical nature for which this title has been exclusively claimed. The farewell meeting drew together an audience very much larger than the seats of one of tlio largest chui'ohes in the city could accommodate. It was presided over by the Hon. Mr Wilmot, who delivered a fervent address of a valedictory nature. He was followed by the Earl of Cavan and Major-General Burrows whosespeeches were characterised by good taste. The Rev. Mr Grant of Halifax, Nova Scotia, followed. I understand he is a native of Canada and his accent indi*#ts4 this, aUJwygh fit M X suppose^ '

that he had hailed from Ireland. He intimated that he had been reluctant to come forward when requested to address this meeting, but now that he had come he said that he meant to take full swing' for as he remarked " It's not every night we Mil a, pig. " Accordingly he did kill his pig in a rather lively manner. The Rev Mr Black of Inverness, who I understaud enjoys much popularity a& a preacher, followed, and lastly came the Rev. Dr Fraser of London.

I preached in several of the Presbyterian cLurches, and visited others. The buildings will compare favourably with the ordinary Presbyterian churches in the cities at home for size, elegance, and solid%, being built of bright coloured stone. Most of them have galleries. The use of the organ, as in almost every other Presbyterian church, has been sanctioned, and in most we hear its grave and solemn sound. The interest taken by the Presbyterian church in its theological college was favourably shewn on the occasion of a lecture I had the opportunity of hearing, by the Rev. Dr. Fraser, of London. It was delivered in connection ni(h the opening of the Annual Session of the College. About 1500 persons assembled in the Erskine Church (of which the Rev. Dr. Taylor and the Rev. Mr. Black are ministers), where it was delivered. No doubt the fame of the lecturer, as well as the personal interest taken in him by multitudes here (having been formerly settled in this city), lent additional attractions. The subject was "Richard B.ixi,t>r." He handled it with much power and interest, and displayed ctreat elocutionary skill in the delivery, It lasted about an hour and tliree-qnartersJ and was listened to with close attention to the end. Ho possessf s the advantage of a fn3 voice, and certainly appeared to ms to bo one of the mo3t accomplished elocutionists among the ministers I have heard. Possibly there is a deficiency in that particular art that the Koran coin* mends — ff the art of concealing art." But I must delay till next week some account of the other features of Montreal and its surroundings.