PARIS FASHIONS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 26903, 15 October 1948, Page 9

PARIS FASHIONS

SLENDER SILHOUETTES FULLNESS IN COATS hi. This is the last of a series of articles written by Miss Avice Bowbyes, of the staff of the Home Science School, Dunedin, on her experiences in Paris. Writing on August 17 she describes her visit to the salons of Pierre Balmain. “ On this, my last afternoon in Paris, I attended at the salons of Pierre Balmain wher# 200 people assembled to view a distinguished, immaculate, and exclusive presentation of some 120 garments Balmain’s clothes are of the kind that are satisfying to the modern woman. His silhouette is slender and close fittting, but with a sudden flare at the knee, particularly at the back of the skirt, usually described as his fish-tail effect. This is arrived at by extra flare on the lower part of the seams and makes it possible to walk easily. Emphasis in this collection was again on the jacket suit shown in many versions. “A number of them were in black wool trimmed with lamb, velvet, braid, or beaded in jet. One in black wool used a black velvet blouse with a gold belt. Another in black wool outlined the edges of the jacket in velvet and used a gold blouse In another, the hem was effectively lined in red. One in dark blue was heavily braided in black. Others were in taffeta, velvet, or brocade, in sombre but lovely colours in tones of grey and bronze. Coats were large and voluminous with many flared seams giving fullness in the back with large reveres and collars. The suits, several of which were red, were shorter in the jacket and relied on cut and not on padding to give the silhouette. Belts when used were fitted to the figure to give the rounded silhouette.

Elegant Dinner Dresses “ Dinner dresses in this collection were quite distinguished. One in black and brown brocade with a skirt flared at the back was extremely elegant. Another with a black skirt and high corseleted waist used an oyster coloured satin top, and an oyster satin jacket (beaded in black One in black velvet zipped all the way up the back and had a fish-tail effect at the back consisting of several godets lined with taffeta. Still another in black had a green strapless bodice with a black jacket lined with green, and an uneven hemline- slightly trained at the back lined with green “ Evening dresses had very low necklines, with narrow skirts with trains. Featnei's and embroidery were used for trimmings. For instance, a blue velvet dress had blue-grey feathers sewn all over the skirt and the cape, giving a lovely, luminous texture. A white net dress had a blue taffeta drape outlining the neckline and a wide shaped blue belt with a pink rose at the waistline. A silver cloth gown used a draped skirt with a beaded bodice in bright colours. A pale pink evening dress with flared seams had godets set in all round the skirt. A black velvet gown had at least 14 godets in taffeta set into the seams to give fullness and contrast in texture. Many of the evening dresses had wide corseleted belts fastened with a slotted pin at the back. The whole presentation was carried out with precision and elegance, and at the conclusion was applauded. “August 18. —And now it is over! Les collection's sont terminees! And the buyers and the journalists from all over the world are gradually leaving Paris. What does it mean? More buyers attended the collections this year than at' any time since 1939. It means more dollars for France. It means prestige for the French' Haute Couture. It means that the inspiration has been given and the path, of fashion set so that it is possible to form an idea of the kind of clothes that are likely to be the leading international fashions for the coming season or seasons The Spirit of France “ Noticeable in all the collections were the number of wearable dresses and suits for day-time wear. It would seem that Paris, renowned as she is for magnificent clothes for evening and formal wear, is realising the need for simpler models that are suitable for many occasions, and is making a strong bid for favour in this direction also. The season has been a thrilling one. Merchandise is available, and quality is back again, though prices are high. “ The/ clothes that I have seen—a thousand odd garments in all—were an education to me. I have come away with a stronger realisation of what is meant when it is said that it is in the choice and manner of wearing the clothes that the individualty of the person is revealed. It makes no difference whether your silhouette is straight or full or both; What is necessary is that eternal elegance achieved by fabric, cut, and design. It has been a privilege and a deep satisfaction to relax for a while in the sensitivity which is Paris. After having been, and seen, one comes away with the feeling that the river of French intellectual and creative life could never dry up nor freeze in the snows of adversity.”