MY LADY'S DRESS

Otago Daily Times, Issue 22714, 29 October 1935, Page 14

MY LADY'S DRESS

A LETTER FROM SYDNEY Dear Phillida, —During the last few years the cocktail hour has evolved n, style of dressing all of its own. It demands something a little more pretentious than an afternoon frock and yet not quite so formal as a dinner d,ress. There was a time when sports cl6thes, town suits, and cocktail clothes were almost interchangeable—one could " go on " to a cocktail party in one's tennis frock. Then again we passed through an era when anything eccentric or flamboyant was tried out at cocktail time. Skirts which were split too high, hats that were too big or too small, cigarette holders that were too long, and pyjama suits that were too exotic —all these appeared at the cocktail hour. Now that is all changed. A. cocktail party has become more of a late afternoon reception—an occasion to be dressed up to. It is no longer the sole property of the young and gay—nowadays our mothers and fathers are "at home" from 5 till 7, and besides cocktails they serve tea and coffee, sherry and savouries. It provides an excellent opportunity for " fine " dressing. And so we have the cocktail frock or suit. It must be something a little bit better than anything else we possess—something which will lend us an air of formality. It is an occasion for extreme

smartness which is at the same time in perfect taste. My sketch shows two of this year's cocktail frocks which were designed in Paris. The huge white silk poppies" on the black chiffon show the inimitable touch of Marcel ltochas —one of the foremost designers of this type of dress. The entire frock is pleated and blows gracefully in the breeze. A tucked yoke iu the frock is repeated in the cape, which is also pleated. A black taffeta slip rustles pleasantly when the wearer walks. Marcel Koch as is also the designer of the other frock sketched. It is made from a stiff faille with plenty of bodv in it. A band of openwork in the fabric above the hemline is a move towards shorter skirts. A matching band edges the deep revers of the collar, and the belt is finished by a beautifully enamelled shield buckle. Last night at a cocktail party I saw a very charming suit made of black organza. It consisted of a backless taffeta slip, over which was worn a sleeveless frock—very plain and finished at the high neckline by a prim pique bow. A snugly-fitting jacket which was worn over the top had wide revers and cunningly-cut sleeves with elbow fullness, the back of which were cut in one piece with the jacket back. A slightly flaring peplum stood out from the slim skirt of the frock. A tiny pillbox hat of cellophane straw, which was worn with it. had a row of ragged pique daisies in front. Another cocktail suit which I saw in a model salon was made of white silk poplin, which

had tiny black silk bows sewn at regular intervals all over it. The skirt was cut slim and straight, and the fitting jacket had a decidedly flaring peplum and sleeves with much gathered back fullness above the elbow. Shirring, which until now has been nearly always horizontal, has taken a sudden dive in a vertical direction. One of the newest silhouettes, which will later on be seen in evening gowns, is achieved by a double row of shirring right down the centre front of the bodice. I saw it used in a pale blue flat crepe frock, which was 'printed in navy interlacing circles. The fullness of the bodice gave a softness_ to the bosom and fitted snugly at the waist, finishing in a peak below the natural waistline. j Fitted waistlines are very much the thing, some of them reaching well above the ribs. When there are belts they are wide, and when a frock has no belt it fits snugly. One purple sheer silk has vertical pleated sleeve* and vertical nleated bodice which ends at a highfitted waistline and develops into a fitted and slightly flaring skirt. Skirts are still shortish and comfortably full. Accessories at the cocktail party must be of the most exquisite kind. If your,dress has short sleeves it is fun to wear elbow length gloves—you caji find some beauti-fully-made French ones which are elaborate without being conspicuous. Your bag can be of the dressy variety too, but if your frock is elaborate it will be wiser to wear plain accessories. Your cocktail

hat will inevitably be your most becoming one. Hats this season are versatile at any rate, and at cocktail time you can let your fancy run free. Stiff eye-veils, sometimes coloured, give an air of mystery to the wearer; whereas flowers are both chic and becoming—especially the large and rather raggedy daisies and carnations which We see so much of this year. Field flowers are still favourites for millinery trims, and garden pinks, love-in-the-mists and similar naive blossoms are very much worn. Many newhats are semi-crownless and have veils worn over the hair and under the hat. Lace hats are also fashion news—some of them having large pleated brims. If you indulge in a lace hat, be sure to wear it with the most unelaborate frock, and try the effect of wearing lace gloves to match. At the Parisian summer race meeting the Baroness do Rothschild wore the most notable costume —a pale green frock with matching shoes made of a new cellophane which resembles crinkly patent leather; flattering black Chantilly lace gloves and a large laee hat. Hand-made touches still continue to be the hall mark of good taste. Your cocktail frock, however simple, must showsome sign of pleating, rucking, opeuwqrk i'aggottihg. or tucking; it will give , as rare as it is desirable.