ANTIRRHINUMS.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 20644, 16 February 1929, Page 3

ANTIRRHINUMS.

AS BIENNIALS OR ANNUALS. In order to produce plants of the very finest quality and stamina, antirrhinums should he treated as biennials, and the seed sown in New Zealand in Jmuary. They may also be treated as half-hardy annuals, such as stocks and asters, and sown in the spring. Such plants, however, will be rather later in flowering. Sow the seed thinly, and transplant, when large enough to handle, into bojcee or specially-prepared frames, where they should remain for about eight months, when they can be put out in their flowering quarters. All antirrhinums for bedding are benefited by pinching out about an inch of the top of the plant when about three to four inches high. This will encourage side growths to break out, and thus build up the nice bushy habit desired.

Antirrhinums are very adaptable to soil and situation. They will bloom abundantly in full sunlight or in partial shade, but, like every other plant, the response to good culture is very gratifying. An open, sunny position and a light, fairly rich soil can be considered ideal, but*, whore this cannot be obtained, much can be done io improve the existing conditions. Where the soil is very heavy and clayey, mortar rubble, or some such material, should be incorporated. A heavy dressing of lime in the autumn will also help to lighten it. A very light and sandy soil, should be manured with cow duug. After planting, the usual summer at tentions consist of hoeing, weeding, the removal of old flowers, watering in very hot, dry spells, and, if it is considered necessary, some feeding after the flower spikes have formed. Weak solutions ol natural manure will be found best for this purpose, and great care should be taken to see that the plants are not overfed.

There are really few of the gardening public who realise what a magnificent show antirrhinums make when grown under the exhibition method, namely, on single stems. Even if one does not intend to exhibit, it is well worth the time and trouble to grow them thus for conservatory decoration or for cut flowers. When grown for the former purpose, it must be borne in mind that the plants will reach a very consider-, able height. The tail section will, as a genera,! rule, run about five feet, and the other types a proportionate height. Success is very easily obtained with this method of culture. If the plans are to be grown under glass, they should be pricked off while quite tiny, potted up a couple of months afterwards, in small pots, and grown on in a cold greenhouse or frame. They should bo shifted again into larger pots jn about four months, and given a final potting into five or six-inch pots a couple of months afterwards. Use a medium potting compost, and make sure that the drainage is efficient. Where the plants are to be grown outside, they should have the same treatment as f or bedding plants, except that all growths, except

the leading shoot, should be removed. This also applies to those under glass. This growth should be staked, and all the young lateral shoots rubbed out whenever they make' their appearance. Feeding should commence when flower buds appear. Use weak solutions of natural manure, and guard against overfeeding. Once a fortnight is ample.