THE SOUTHERN ALPS.

Otago Daily Times, Issue 14439, 4 February 1909, Page 4

THE SOUTHERN ALPS.

MALTE BKUN TO THE WEST COAST, VIA GRAHAM'S PASS. We have been permitted the perusal of a highly interesting account of the trip made by Mr and Mrs Lindon and Chief Guide Graham from the Malto Bruit Jltil to lite AVaiho Gorge on the West Const, and on the return journey by way of the Copland Pass. The following extract from the letter will be read with interest by many of car readers

liaison's Hole!, Waiho Gorge, January 13, 1909. Yen know that we started up the Tasman Glacier last. Saturday, in line weather and cool for walking. We had a quiet night, at, the Ball llut, and a glorious day on Sunday to tho Hallo limn—clear blue sky, no clouds or wind. Jl augured very well [or our start. Mr Lindon and I and Graham lay down all the afternoon and evening after tea, and at 11.30 got, up, had hot colfee lilid toast, and were ready to start at 12.15. Thompson, one of the guides, came ovi 4 . the corner of l)e la l'eche carrying the big pack for Graham so Jar. The night was gorgeously line—bright moonlight, and absolutely still and cloudless. Wo walked very quickly down lo the corner on hard, crisp snow, needing no lantern. Just, imagine the scene: the moon hung above Graham's Saddle. Hooding the Mount Cool; side of the valley with light, and was full on the glacier and snowlields as we climbed up. There was a great deal of snow, and we had not much rock-climbing, but a good deal ot step-culling. which I much enjoyed. Later on came the dawn, the sunrise, and the wonderful spectacle as peak after peak caught the glow, and the whole valley was lillod with rosy light, while the moon still shone above us. We reached Ibe top of Grahams Saddle at 5.40. Graham lutited round and caught my band in congratulation, and then stepped aside for me to seo the view. Il was a marvellous sight—no cloud, no wind, very cold, and intensely clear, --while bf'fore us lay Ihe broad blue lino of the sea. the beautiful tree-clad slopes, the mountain peaks, and the huge snowfields: as clear as a photograph flie snow ranges Stood out. I could hardly move, much less speak. 1 tw»k some photographs, and then tve moved down to a spur of some roclis that (iridium has named the Lindon lioeks. Here we had hot. Liebig and a short rest, before tackling the first snow-field. The snow was vevv soft, which made going tiring, and wn'readied the Mildred liocks, where Graham consolod us will} jh) ornn#n ami walor; limn another vast snowlield had to bo crossed to the Stirling Hock. This proved fearfully soft, and I floundered up lo my knees, and the sun became very hot. A beautiful effect in crossing this snowfield is that the snow basin is surrounded by while peaks, with (lie broad belt of Muc sea as a. background, making a lovelysoft setting to the dazzling snmv peaks. We dropped into Ihe "great; track,' which they seemed lo lhink°was in worse condition than last, year, and got down well, being on the rope; and thou came (tie iiilerminable "grass" slopes to Jho waterlmlc, where wc had lunch. Wo left the walerhole at 2.30, diluted down the creek, and reached hero at 6.45, having taken 18J hours.

At the (,lacier bridge Aleck Graham was muling with horses. When we reached Ihe Wiitlm we bad ~ great welcome, mid found La son s very con,fori able,. Had „ very hot bath change and lea, and fell „„ii o refreshed. I was llm most, wonderful day and night, i have ever spent, for no one could hope to descrilm the magnitude of that scene of snow ami ice, nor the loveliness of the hush, or the brilliant, sky and 1 , w,li 'i', stamped on mv mind for over l' roni early morning when the moon's (I'M on Hie snow and ice made it. seem -s it we were walking on diamonds Hashing in he light, with the cold, mag,,if icon t peaks bathed in moonlight; above us, the fascin-if nig ( music of step-cutting, „nd the coming of the (lawn, right on through the different lours of that lovely day. my senses were lied to such a high pitch of enjoyment a [ managed not to feel the strain of sium » hard walk.

Yeslnrdav we loafed about and enjoved .'I" (l ?y. Jt, mined oil night, aud' -dl this morning, and is clear again In-nighf, RO we start off to-morrow for Williams's' fi om there f<, Architect- Creek on Fridav" ihn"ir'' V •( Dou " 1 " s »'id Kiinduv thei lloililltagn— hi each case weuther uerruiUing. This is a truly lovoly spot, a „d I nave spenUiours out in fho bush, IV , 'Jl 10 JJermilage, .lanuarv 19. it,l n "i' U ' r„ ' romi ' lwc k over J z ?n *' °" o,| dav. 18l.li January , i , a ", (l what lias lioen 'a' most debghtul and never-10-he-fo^ollon tr J l As you know wc negotiated Craham's fcaddle on the night and early morning of ■lamuu'y 11, reaching the Woilio at 6.45 j).in. liesting oil the 12th, it sturlod raining that night, rained all day on the, 13tll, «" day ,111 the Mill, and finally cleared „p on the 15th. We rode lo Williams's, 17 mile.*, 11l the afternoon through that, meat, nvqni.sitv bush, sponf. a comfortable nHil, ridmg on next ikiy to Arohiteet drool;, Where v.-e cnniped- in some tents left Inroad men. On the 17th wo started walking, and got to t.ho hot springs dry. I had a bath, and aflor some lea we 'went on. II then poured rain right, up to the Douglas Jvock, which we readied at 4. drenched to the skin. After changing and tea, we pro(rocdod <o try and dry all lhat wo wUnlod for !k»x( day—a long oncrntion. Wo slept, on Ihe rod; in sleeping-bags with blankets, and gol up, dnv»«|—that mean* put. mi our boots.—and alter some delay owing to tin* unpromising state of the weather" wo elarled at ~15. ll slatted raining, and the lnii-li and grass slopes wero fearfully wel, and we were soon ipiile wet through again. AMien we elilulvd up or lo the snow il commenced snowing. We' could nol see ?,0 yarns ahead of us. We never saw ill-" rocks or any mountains until jusl before Ihe lop. when ihe topmost peaks loomed mil of the mist. It was llien Miowing hard, bitlerlv eoUI. and a tearing gale got up behind lis just as we were domg the la.s! pinch. The p,bs was covered In snow, and (Iraliam took my arm. as Ihe wind played up with my skirl, and we rated down the soft snow ''lores on lhi> side. Til.-' ro<'ks were dilliculi owing to ihe presence of so nineh snow, ami we had to go carefully. The unow was s!:!I driving o'.er us in heavy squalls, tlni'e over the roelis we came down dm shale slopes lo the bivouac, where we gol some refreshment .-mil mtl on some ilrv sock-; lo come in with, ll was a stormy cx|s'iieui<'. and we managed to cot. over just iu lime, ;ii'; |no wind go! vorv strong later on. I lannot evpress how lovoly il lias all l-e,mi. We had live line travelling nays lo iwo had ones, and as far as lam concerned f do nol mind Ihe discomfort, when 1 as lit as 1 do now. My mind has gathered stores of marvellous beauty to feed on for sone* lime, and we have ■had ;o much kindness and attention that I '.im feeling ipiile spoilt.