THE WATCH ON THE RHINE

NZ Truth, Issue 890, 16 December 1922, Page 3

THE WATCH ON THE RHINE

BLACK FRENCH ARMY HATED BY GERMANS British Rale With a Rod of Iron "THERE IS NO PEACE" (By FREDERICK W. CLAMPETT.)

"You'd better see the occupied territory on the Rhine," said Dr. Crane, editor of "Current Opinion," one day to me, just as he was leaving on his last trip there, "and I promise you'll get all the stuff you want for writing." He had made quite a name for himself amongst the boys of the American Army. As a young fellow said to me at Coblentz a few weeks after, "the doctor's talks to vs — boys-^-were the finest ever." The hint was too good to let slip, and I made my plans. It was a raw, cold afternoon of pelting sleet and hail when I entrained at the Gare'du Nord m Paris, my first objective t being' Wiesbaden. The second-class ticket, m what was called by courtesy an "express," entitled me to the extended privilege of sitting up the whole / night, and I took due advantage of it. The compartent I happened to enter was intended for sixpersons, and I dropped into the only space remaining. As soon as we moved out 'of the dark station I made a careful survey of my fellow passengers, m whose company I was about to spend fifteen long hours. U.S. was not written on any face. . The party, as it turned out, was made up of two Frenchmen, three Germans and myself. Like the "whole of Gaul" we were divided into three parts, which were fenced m with a high partition. There was a prolonged "mum" a3 we understood not one another's speech. The two Frenchmen sat next the door, snugly bound m heavy overcoats. The Germans had selected the best racks, upon which they had placed their light luggage.

As the heating apparatus was on the blink,- a not unusual thing, the two Frenchmen proceeded to bar the door, seal the ventilators and slam 'tlie window tight. The average Frenchman dreads a "courant d'air" more than a loaded pistol. Air m motion is his worst enemy. He ventilates only by gestures. Six times by actual count one of the Germans, a tall, portly fellow of ruddy complexion and flaxen hair, rose with slow dignity and-open-ed . the door, " and six times the courteous Frenchman closed it 'with a smile. Finally, the flushed German, with a look of pity, gurgled a sentence, doffed his overcoat and slowly settled himself into a pretence of sleep. After some six hours of travel the atmosphere tobk on a distinct personality. When we were gliding into Metz the air was like that of a packed revival meetin* of colored brethren m the intense heat of a t Mississippi summer. One hour's delay, m this historic spot cleared the atmosphere. The journey from Metz to Mainz m an allnight run, sitting upright, leaves a scar on the memory. . ' • Three times during the wee hours of the night were.we treated to refreshing whiffs of ozone and the brutal rigor of military discipline. . . Before the German border was reached the tickets were checked. At a station called Forbach the .passports were carefully examined. At. 3, o'clock a.m., when man's vital powers are said to be at the lowest ebb, our baggage was turned inside out. The Customs officials m Europe have a habit of turning Nirvana into Gehenna. TIME TO PART.

The Germans got off at Kriesnach and, to my startling surprise, gripped my hands as they said "auf wiedersehen." The French made a grand departure at Mainz. It was my honor to enter the huge depot m Wiesbaden, m solitary weariness. When I stood m the square facing the depot, '.'.my. pockets were bulging with German coins, which a friend unloaded on me m Paris. Their value was out of all proportion to their weight. Itching to get rid of some of them I hailed a cab, to which two lean horses were attached, and ordered the driver to convey me to the best hotel m Wilhelmstrasse. It was a long, slow drive through wide streets, studded with fine trees and adorned with splendid buildings. When I arrived at my destination I handed the driver fifty marks and awaited, results. He returned twenty-two marks. Thus the drive, at the rate of exchange on that day, including baggage, cost 8 cents. This was my first big surprise. Visions of a bloated prosperity floated before me. I felt rich for the first time mmy life. My feelings were admirably expressed by the world's heavyweight champion. When Jack Dempsey landed m Havre -a young, beautiful French girl rushing up to him, hugged him with a double kiss. After she broke away, Jack turned to his manager, as he smacked his lips,- and said: > "Say, Kearns, this is a 'fine country." As I happened to be without a manager I repeated the words to myself. Travel m 'Germany m these days makes a gambler of you. In India the morning salutation is "How's your liver?" In France they courteously ask: -"How do you carry yourself?" : But m Germany it m invariably Tthe- eager question, "How's the mark tbVday?" The hotel ' deserves special mention. The suite of rooms occupied by Dr. Frank Crane were once tenanted by the ex-Crown Prince and twice by General Foch. Pension and board came to something less than 2 dollars a day. The table is as sumptuous as that of the best hotel m New York City. Even Carl Stanley, whose Del Monte cuisine Is world-known, might doff his hat to Herr Volkmpth. Jphn Wood would be aghast at the prices. Swedish massage from a German doctor, who always went over the hour, i might be had for 15 cents, a thermal bath for 3 cents, a radium bath for 10 cents, a shave for 5 cents, a haircut for 10 cents, a manicure, at the hands of an attractive fraulein, for 15 cents, a whisky and soda for 15 cents. BEER THREE CENTS. Let me be frank and tell the whole truth, even though it may appear cruel In a country where the dust flies heavenward from a parched land. The cost of a large tankard of München beer does not exceed 3 cents and the best Geisenheimer Rhine wine retails at 18 cents a quart. It is not surprising that an American public, who know a good thing when they see it, and a unique capacity 'for getting it., 'are beginning to pour Into Germany. Nor is it at all surprising that the American forces at Coblentz should insist that their continued stay on the Rhine was an essential to the peace of the world. As my special business m this visit was to try and discover the psychological effect upon the German mind produced by the armies of occupation, I started my investigations without delays It was made easy by the fact that- the English language Is spoken freely throughout Germany. The American traveller will find It better to express himself m his own tongue than to strain his vocal chords by a maimed and mystic German. In hotels and stores youngsters who never left tlie boundary of their burg speak excellent English as taught m the schools. This is a remarkable contrast with that of France, where the English tongue is as dead as a door hail. . , ..--•■ The grimmest evidence of the Great War and Its results will be found m the Rhine region of occupation. It is like a deep scar, telling the story of a bad sword thrust. There are three nations, contiguous to one another, whose armed presence helps to stimulate the memory of the Germans, lest they forget. America is sandwiched m between Great Britain and France. The French hold the southland, the Americans hold tho centre with headquarters at Coblentz and the English are fortified at Cologne, . holding tho northland. Let us follow their tracks, moving northward. HELL-ANNEXED. Camping on German soil for the first time m many a moon the French are not slow to apply their power. This is the first Impression that strikes the traveller. If war is hell, its aftereffect is hell-annexed. The south Rhineland is held by a host of Senegalese Colonials. These men are specially repugnant to the Germans, as I discovered on all sides. There is something about a full-blooded negro, with his ebony face, that inspires admiration. Whatever may be the standard of his breed he is, at least thoroughbred. He looks like the honest work of God. These African Colonials represent the mongrel type. With their liverish complexion, pimply faces and savage features, resting on bodies of unequal proportions, the passer-by instinctively turns the other way. It would not be too harsh to say that there is a degenerate look about them. Seven times I watched daily "guardmount" and I also had a keen eye on the Germans as they passed b>\ The German face was stamped with a bitter, unadulterated hatred. I am not now concerned about the right or the justice of. after-war matters. Nor am I dealing' with the moral of current events. This Is simply a chronicle of events, as they wore seen by me and of Impressions as they laid hold of mo. "Guard-mount" takes place In tho centre of Marktplatz. Tho imrr-enso hotel In front • was the ex-Kaiser's chosen home for certain seasons of the years when he' came to "take tho cure." It was commandeored by the French for tho uso of the genoral In command with his staff. Tho II oh enzollcrn coat of arms stands out with regal realism, as the Germaiiß reverenced it, before "that day." From the Imperial balcony, where the Imperial eye watched with admiration nnd pride tho steady goose steps of deluded hosts, tho French general stands at 'attention before his Colonials, as he salutes his flag. At the right, the statue of Wilhelm the First Is a stony witness of the whole ugly business with an Imperial frown on his hardened features. The sculptor soemed to carve with prophetic instinct. And If Wilhelm. thus situated, could only hear the weird music of that weird band, as they filled tho air with martial strnlns of their reed instruments, the frown would deepen. They work themselves into a frenzied passion, tossing their instruments In the air betweon parts and catching them with unerring precision. THERE IS NO PEACE. I made It my business to ask questions and listen carefully everywhere I went. From portera of hotel?, storekeepers, waiters, barbers, the men "m the street" I learned their feelings, p-isslons, ambitions, hatreds. There is no peace. Tho year 1022 icgtstcrs tho war-spirit deeper by fur than that of I'lM. Pacificism m poetry hi blank verse. Within the crater of tho sleeping volcano aro nil tho damnable, deadly forces that threaten an eruption. I beheld it m Wiesbaden, at Mainz, at Krcuznach. Before we leave the French occupied territory it will bo interesting to say a word about tho Rhopplng. Tho French havo Insisted that every storo shall have the price of every article i marked and that there can b? one i price only. Once, n storekeeper observing that I was a foreigner, doubled the price and demanded tho difference. The hotel proprietor was indignant

and set the wheels of justice m motion. The storekeeper, 7'humbled and frightened, made sundry - promises to the officials. This was- the only occasion m three weeks' experience along the Rhine that such a thing happened. Everywhere is uniform courtesy, efficiency, kindness. The trip to Coblentz is a dream of matchless beauty. From Bingen on the Rhine to American headquarters the scenery is beyond the power oi. pen to describe. Vine-covered hills, on either side of the river, with startling steepness, seem to kiss the skies. Castles seem to blossom from the rock as the flowers m spring. The twining Rhine teemed with- freight barges, marked Amsterdam, towed by powerful tugs'. -Swiftly: we sailed north, borne by the swiftest of currents, caused by the rainiest winter m the memory of man. The American soldier .walks the streets of Coblentz with a look of ownership. There's a spring to his step, a < kind expression m his face, wondrous, good to see. The uniform bobbed up everywhere and gave a hoiae feelings . I felt like stopping every mother's son of them and telling them how happy and home-like his presence made me. The number has been reduced to a little over one thousand men. There was a young fellow from lowa, unusually alert, from whom I, gathered all the "dope" I wanted. "Are you homesick?" I asked him. He replied, "Not on your life. We've been well treated here. Gosh! when I get back to my Main street I don't know what will happen. This place a kind of spoils us." Before long we became quite chummy and his experience covered all the points : on which I sought information. The tourists are pouring m here because they can get things so cheap. "Why the very tips we give are often larger than the price of things we buy. Gosh!", he added, as he pulled a cigar from his tunic. "Look at that," and he smiled. "There's a smoke that will beat*; < anything m lowa.' Real genuwine baccy, itwqj cents apiece! Ye godsV - - ' "If I dared to . tell my folks that, they'd make me a charter member of the Ananias Club m Ottumwa." The British rule m their territory is like a rod of iron. With Cologne as their headquarters they have commandeered the ' finest buildings and have made every arrangement to stay for -fifteen years. The'h'atred of the British is deep, bitter beyond words to describe. When the day arrives that the occupation of the Rhine district can be dispensed with, it will be a great step towards a better feeling.