Frills and Furbelows

New Zealand Times, Volume LIII, Issue 12394, 13 March 1926, Page 15

Frills and Furbelows

i The Latest From Paris

(BY

PAULINE COURLANDER)

[All Rights Reserved.]

INDIVIDUAL STYLES With spring styles we shall probably not see so much of the symmetrical godet and the all round flare; there will, however, be plenty of fluttering grace supplied by -floating panels from the shoulder or. the hip ..scarves, draperies, and sashes. Even the neck will nave a feeling of movement for lace and chiffon iabots, ribbons, and ruches are to oust the plain neckline. All this is pleasant news for it means that everyone will be able to indulge in her Own particular fashion, instead

of being obliged to adopt the uniform straight tight tube or place- herself outside the magio circle of the’ welldressed. The present more varied styles allow one to dress with dignity or frivolity, according to one’s age and shape as well as the occasion. They also allow each of the great houses to cultivate a special style, and so introduce more light and shade into our appearances Mother and child need no loiter dress alike,, there are enough fashions for each. ■■ The uneven hem and the one-sided drapery are to continue! and so, too, are capes and cape effects. Plain backs are to be worn with godet fronts and pleated ones and long jabots, of lace, georgette, or the same material as the frock reach to the low waictline. Hip draperies are seen on same of the early models, cross-over backs with plain straight fronts and side, draperies that are considerably longer than the skirt. Morning' and afternoon frocks are made with long sleeves, except linen and muslin ones, evening frocks have no sleeves. A FORECAST OF SPRING MATERIALS

The spring fashions are with us. They do not commit themselves to any definite statement as >to the details of the new fashions, but they bring us glimpses of all the new materials, and From them ws can generally - deduce something as to our future shape. For instance, since many of the spring materials are permanently machine pleated , and many more Have wot en borders in stripes or cubes, it is safe to say that straight skirts will oust the flared ones. Once more it looks as though Kasha were .to hold its own against all comers. Kasha of ever increasing beauty. In its latest form it is ,even-lighter and more supple than it has! been, and there are many new varieties of pure wool or silk and wool mixture.

Kasha-toile, as its name implies, looks like linen; Kasha natte is like herringbone tweed or hopsack; Kasha iaspe has a speckled surface. Other kinds are woven. with a white silk stripe, a shaded effect, or a striped bor-

der. Plain and bordered ones alike are permanently pleated for skirts, while unpleated materials in exactly the same colouring are used far ooats. SPRING MATERIALS , Mixtures of silk and wool are likely to be popular for spring wear. The silk is used for weaving stripes or checks or flowered designs in Kasha or jersey cloth, and a bloom like effect is obtained by, weaving a thin web over the silk. •' There ' are. some fascinating new crepes both silk and cotton, and ? one of the new Kashas is so finely and irregularly pleated as to have the crinkled appearance of crepe. ! .Orepqlla flenin brings the spring a little nearer. It is a : delicious soft cotton crepe sprinkled—over wlih little silk flowers? that look as though they were hand-embroidered. In fact, quite a number of the new patterned materials' look hand-embroidered to such a pitch' of perfection has jnaehinery brought weaving: and dyeing. ARTISTIC DESIGNS -Geometrical and .floral and oriental designs are all seen in morb beautiful colours and shapea-than ever. The outstanding characteristic of all of them is a certain reticence. Just as there is to be nothing harsh' in the texture of the materials :. so there-- is nothing garish in their colouring. Plain and'striped georgette, - mousseline de soie and .linens are . shown: linens are especially , beautiful, and

now that they can he quite uncrushable they, deserve an important place" in our affections.' For frooks ,thia year we are to have a supple linen which,-retains all the charm of the old. kind and yet has some of the grace of silk. There are to be beautiful pastel shades, flower designs and stripes like those on Italian silk. MEDIAEVAL SLEEVES Draperies continue to inspire the oouturiere. They are charming in the softer neutral colours, including tho

increasingly popular greys df dove "or silver hue, the endless range of delicate mauves and pinkish-purples, and a wonderful variety of-wine tones. Blank, all white, and the alliance of the two that Paris .perennially favours are themes much favoured by the wclD-' dreesed woman. I was particularly fascinated by a toilette de soiree, that comprised a gown of powder-blue - chiffon over an, underskirt of dark gold lace.' The evening cloak en suite was of powderblue lined with gold tissue of tho exact shade of ' the lace. Anothei oharming evening ensemble was a black chiffon gown, -cut on the lines of a sleeveless ooat-frock. and worn over a, pleated underdrew of white chiffon and l»ce. Straight garments out on mediaeval lines, with long fitting sleeves, and fashioned of gold or silver tissue, have their accompanying sleeves-, less “jumper” tunics of lace. a delicate green or blue, threaded with 'Silver-or gold, is frequently the chosen colour 'note for this complementary . portion of the. gown-