BEDFORDSHIRE PILLOW LACES.

New Zealand Times, Volume LI, Issue 8964, 15 April 1890, Page 7

BEDFORDSHIRE PILLOW LACES.

Pillow-laoe making which has been an industry in various English counties since Its introduction by Huguenot refugees In the sixteenth century, is an interesting study from an artistic or historical point of view. To make a true study of it, however, would bo a lengthy undertaking, requiring an abler pen to do it ustice. But a few little facts about pillow lace, ns made by the women of Bucks and Beds, may have an interest for those who are admirers of beautiful work, and care to know something of the leaser industries of their country. It is a matter (for regret that the work should be dying out. The demand is now small, and machine-made imitations, with the all-powerful advantage of cheapness, arc easily procured, and are equally effective, and even equally lasting. The old point patterns, which are moat worthy of admiration, are becoming more and more rare, as the Maltese, though neither so beautiful nor so durable, is easier to make and to sell. Lace collarettes, cuffs, and apron trimmings which some years ago figured in the wardrobes of ladies of fashion, helped pillow laoe to have its day. Now there are trillings and linen collars and cuffs in endless variety, and an esoutcheon-shaped, lace-decorated morsel of black silk is not considered necessary for the protection of tailor-made gowns, aesthetic robes, or Paris frocks. Yet the collarettes are still made in some email quantity, so it is to be supposed they afcill find purchasers and even wearers. The village children, who, before the days of compulsory education, began their apprenticeship at the pillow at the early age of four years, cannot now learn thoroughly till they leave school, when they probably go out to service, or have their time otherwise occupied. •Lace schools ’ are no longer seen, where a proficient worker would initiate the neighbours’ fittle girls into the bewildering mysteries of bobbins and thread. Here the children made lace for as long as ten hours a day, one sometimes reading aloud, which must have been a pleasant relief to the monotony, A fairly hard day’s work this, taking into consideration that cottages, and especially thatched ones, are apt to be hot iu summer and draughty in winter; that wooden chairs offer . little rest to aching backs , and that eyes and fingers are by no means indefatigable even in early yontb. Lace making no wadays is not remunerative. Some forty or fifty years ago, a woman, with steady application, might earn as much as a guinea a week, the sum varying, of course, according to the amount of work and price per yard. But an insertion lacc, about five inches wide, with a sprig on a net ground, would sell for a guinea a yard, aud the worker could make a yard a week. It was the custom to settle the price of a lace by counting a shilling for every score of bobbins used ; so that a lace taking ninety bobbins sold for about 4s fid u yard, now it would average 2s 6d, This rule, of course, did not apply to all patterns, some having more work in them with a less number of bobbins, and consequently being priced higher. The strips of parchment (1 foot in length, and called a * down ’) on which the lace is made cost 2Jd for every inch in width ; if a pattern is pricked on ready for working, the charge is about 2£d extra per inch. These wear oat iu a short time, and need to be pricked on to a new strip, which requires excellent eyesight and exemplary patience, and baffles some clever laoemakers. There is, of course, as much variety in the work of different women as there is in any occupation needing skilful fingers, patience, and cleanliness, some keeping their lace exquisitely white (in spite of the worker’s hands doing all the housework) —pulling out bobbins to stiffen, and covering np what is completed ; when others, from carelessness, have only soiled and limp work to show. The old bobbins are quaint and amusing, and, being of delicate make, they are lighter and pleasanter to use than modern ones. They are often heirlooms, and given as 4 tokens of affection ’ from one member of the family to another. An elaborately carved and ornamented bobbin, costing perhaps Is or Is fid, would be given as a birthday present or brought home as a fairing. Some white bone ones, neatly carved and painted, are most curious, having varied inscriptions, often vague as to spelling, such as ‘ Betsey Ann,’ ‘Dear Father,’ ‘Love me and leave me not,’ ‘Name the day,’ and ‘Remember me.’ Some of dark wood, inlaid with tin or brass, and fine wire, polished with wear, make a.bright and artistic pillow. Some quaint terms are used in lacemaking. A piece of print or stuff, of the width of the parchment, covering the completed work, is called a ‘ drorter ;’ this spelling is purely conjectural, as it has not been possible to ascertain if it is right. To lift the bobbins in loosening them is to ‘holohe ’or ‘ halche ’ them (is thisfrom theFrenoh,hocher ?), and to work leaning the pillow against a table is called ‘teeling.’ Every little link that serves to knit together in sympathy the classes farther asunder has its value to our country iu these perilous days of half education and unreasonable agitation. A little thoughtfulness, a little friendliness in trying to soothe one sufferer may often send a wave of kindly feeling far beyond the one sick room for which the little effort is- made.—N. in The Queen. L