FASHION NOTES.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1611, 14 January 1903, Page 26

FASHION NOTES.

There is a seductive charm about the latest models, which undoubtedly reveals the refinement and artistic touch of the 1830 period. This is particularly noticeable m the drooping shoulders which characterise the capes, pelerines, fichus, and other shoulder adornments of present day fashions. Dark green and brown in varying rich shades, pearl grey, dove grey, Trench grey, white, cream, black, and black and white are the chosen colours of those who figure in the fashionable world.

The skirts of costumes made of such thin textured material as voile have the frills invariably edged with narrow baby velvet. Black and. white blonde insertion laces are among the novelties of the season. They are much used as trimming for evening gowns. Black lace adorns many of the light evening costumes, while the white or cream tints are used for darker materialed gowns. Some of the prettiest laees are appliqued, and inserted with black velvet pastilles, and lightly traced with jet and tiny sequins, or coloured beads. A dressy gown, composed of black voile, with black lace trimmings over white satin, introduces the fashionable combination of black and white, known to many as the magpie tints. The bodice of this gown shows a deep yoke of white satin veiled with black lace, which also forms the upper part of sleeve. Both the lace yolk and sleeve are trimmed with upward stripes of black baby velvet. Sprigged muslin or gauze makes the sweetest of girl's frocks for dressy occasions. One is in finely striped, muslin, decorated with tiny bunches of Neapolitan violets. The skirt shows two flounces edged with a narrow chiffon ruching, and the V shaped bodice ?s picturesquely decorated with a deep lace collar which falls flatly over the shoulders. A fold of heliotrope chiffon borders the opening at the neck, while a large bow of chiffon rests in the front, and it has long scarf ends, which are fastened on the left side of waist with a fancy brooch. The ends of the scarf are edged with a tiny ruching. The elbow sleeves are finished with a frill of lace to match the collar, and this falls over the arm. A chemisette of lace and undersleeves may be worn if the throat and arms require any covering. Decorative strapping in perpendicular lines of equal or unequal length, in diamond or lozenge or round shape, adorns many of the new tailor made gowns. Ribbon or velvet is used for this purpose. Chene silk ribbon, with its varying tints intermingled, makes an excellent trimming for a black frock. Bands and strappings of it arei laid on in almost any design the dressmaker may favour.

LONDON, November 21.

Either very bright or sombre colours are adopted by the fashionable world. Red is a general favourite, and Kinder its heading come many tints cf a simi ar character, such as rose-red, a rich, deep tone of cerise, also strawberry and tomato. White, cream t ivory and putty colour are also- fancies of the moment. Many dainty cos tames are made of these light shades, trimmed with 'a few touches of fur to give them the necessary seasonable look. The introduction among new materials of a most chic and fascinating spotted velvet promises to have a good following. There is also a velvet spotted cloth which makes up into charming visiting costumes. These cloths are to bo had in cream or pale colours, deeply bordered with velvet spots, the size of a threepenny bit or a little larger. Though each spot is of a different tint, it is richly shaded, and a beautiful harmonious effect is produced. This bordering is fused to form the flounce on the skirt and collar and cuffs of coat, the remainder of the gown being composed of plain cloth. „A chenille trimming sometimes edges the flounce, collar and cuffs. The vivid colourings with which embroideries are worked greatly brighten dull, sombre-looking gowns. These Russian embroideries are so great a feature of present gowns that it is not surprising to find the work in great request.. The labour entailed in preparing these and the Roumanian fancy trimming prevents their being classed among cheap dress ornamentations. As it is pretty work, there is no reason why it should not he taken up by young ladies to while away an hour or two in the drawing-room. Indian embroideries also figure on some of the newest costumes. Ties and sashes again enjoy popularity, while the chou-rosette of chiffon holds a prominent place in the adornment of evening bodices or dressy blouses. These rosettes are to be bad in all vivid colourings. They are also made in crepe de chine, and often they have fringed ends which fall down the bodice. Charming cravats made of silk printed with tiny floral designs and figurmgs form another feminine frivolity in the modes of the moment. There is no lessening of favour with fancy collars, which take varying shapes and sizes, and whether they he made of real lace, imitation lace, or silk appliqued and beaded, they are held in high esteem. The tiny square cambric handkerchief much hetrimmed with lace, or the small soft silk ones elaborately embroidered or hem-stitched, forms, another fanciful whim of to-day’s fashions. These handkerchiefs are made so tiny that they may find a tidy resting place in any nook or corner of one’s bodice or coat pocket, or they may be tucked away inside the glove in the palm of the hand, without discomfort or interfering in any way with the dress. Narrow goid braiding, sparingly used; forms another of the season’s favourite trimmings for winter gowns, some of which have gold cord stitched to form.

some pattern on the skirt and bodice. Checks on bodices have the plaid outlined with gold thread. One smart costume recently seen had the plaid in the bodice so lightly worked in that it looked as if it had been interwoven with the material. The three-tiered skirt had a similar lino running through the hem of the edge of each flounce. Large pinked-out rucbings aro again noticeable on skirts. A handsome black silK skirt is finished at the foot with a large, full ruche, and above it is a set of tiny tucks, then another ruche, and again a set of tucks. A three-quarter sac coat of rich black silk is worn w»th this skirt. It is most handsomely trimmed with sable, and forms a fitting accompaniment to the smartly rucheu. silk skirt.

A pretty gown of black voile shows another example of the triple skirt, each flounce of which is edged with tiny tucks and black silk fringe. The pouched bodice is finely tucked downwards, also the sleeves from shoulder to elbow, and the bodice is finished with a deep capo bertha collar of voile, trimmed with jet Vandykes. The opening at tue throat is filled in with tucked crepe de chine in a pretty shade of cerise. The cuffs to the sleeves are trimmed witn jet, whilst a jet waisthelt completes this stylish costume.

The present millinery is as pretty and becoming as it can possibly be. .No hats are now crowded with trimming, the little that is used being made much of. Roses and other flowers are charmingly made up of silk ribbon, and these are employed as a trimming for the dainty turban or three-cornered hat of felt or velvet. Ruches of shaded silk are used to adorn the brims of many toques, giving a decidedly softening effect to the face. The new hats aro very flat, and ostrich feathers aie laid flatly on them with the stems pointing towards the front, the tips of the feathers ‘falling over the hair at the back. Another little item worth noting is observable in the sterns of feathers, which are no longer hidden; they are left plain or finished with a silver or gilt sheath.