LATEST LONDON FASHIONS.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 1095, 24 February 1893, Page 15

LATEST LONDON FASHIONS.

(FROM OUR LONDON- CORRESPONDENT ) London, December 31.

There is a decided tendency towards reviving the fashions that prevailed during the Prince Regent’s time till about the period of 1830 aud the Queen’s coronation. The leg of mutton sleeves, short waists a l’Empire, coal scuttle bonnets, and tight, straight outdoor coats with cape and hem edged with fur have ail reappeared of late, it must be admitted with very little advantage in most cases ; for la mode of 1830 was certainly not conspicuous for its beauty or grace. The coats, though, are rather quaint and picturesque In appearance on a youthful wearer. A compromise of the coal-scuttle bonnet —not a very attractive name for the elegant head gear of a lovely woman—is rather popular, my first sketch consisting of an example. It is, of course, many degrees smaller than the original—which effectually hid the wearers’ faces from all points but tho extreme front, where they might be viewed in perspective in a sort of tunnel formed by tbe bonnet—and is of fine black straw, edged with a narrow roll bindiug of scarlet velvet. Three narrow rolls of scarlet velvet are placed at intervals up the crown, and on the left side narrow ribbons of tho same form a smart long bow, fastening a group of ostrich tips. The strings are, of course, of the same scarlet volvet ribbou.

The ‘ Mrs Siddons ’ hat is a picturesque variety of the ‘Duchess of Devonshire,’ though as now worn it is a much less massive erection than that the handsome Queen of Tragedy wore, according to the famous portrait by Gainsborough and other contemporary portraits—iu height at least.

Double or triple, or ‘Tandem’ and ‘ Four-in-hand ’ capes are to be worn again this autumn and winter, either in thick cloths or of same material as the gown, such as tweed or diagonal serge.

These look remarkably trim and stylish when en suite with the gown, and may be made either cut en circle or on the straight, and eased in one below the other. An inoffensive plaid or check tweed, for instance such as our second illustration shows or fawn coloured tweed, with a darker check line running through, composes a very satisfactory walking dreßS made thus.

The gown bodice of our example is fastened by small velvet buttons oE the darker shade, the roll collar of the cape being lined with velvet, and a navy Tyrol hat, covered with the same shade of velvet, and trimmed with a bank of fawncoloured corded ribbon and partridge wings, completes the toilette. The newest and handsomest evening toilets have low, rounding empire bodices trimmed with lace that falls straight from the edge of the opening all round in either fichu or Recamier fashion. The oloeves of those gowns are a Bhort puff of velvet excessively full.

The fabric called by the importers Himalaya cloth and by the tailors Campbell tartan cloth on one side has a plain smooth surface, while on the other is a protty plaid. It is used for empire capes and three-quarter coats and the garments made of it are not lined. In fact, the wrong side is the prettiest.

The rage for Watteau backs or ribbons in place of the pleats for mantles has given rise to a novelty in ornaments for cloaks and mantles, just now introduced in the form of a bow and long ends of soft silk netted gimp for placing at the back of collar, in place of the ribbons hitherto used, as more suitable for this season of the year. This novelty is illustrated in sketch number three, on a mantle of the Bhape most in vogue for wraps of this kind.

Another recent novelty in trimmings is a broad mohair braid, varying from three to six inches wide, kilted ready for use. This is an excellent idea for the hems of the plain skirtß.

One of the most fashionable furs is mink and the monstrous empire muffs made of it are making their way to the fore. There is really no benefit to be derived from an extra large muff, and it is certainly inconvenient and cumbersome, but just now it certainly is fashionable. Regarding millinery, coloured felts and velvets run an even race for public favour. Yery eccentric is a model Marie Stuart shape of green velvet, with green-and-gold spiders around tbs brim and two little pert feather tufts i:i black standing up directly in front. Fur is again used by the milliners for trimming both hats and bonnets. Nearly all the deep-hued felt liafs are trimmed with black, and black and tan is stillamuch admired combination. Striking mixtures appear upon many of the French creations, pink felt, for instance, being trimmed with golden olive velvet and feathers, pale yellow felts with wine colour, brown hats with lemon or orange velvet and quills, etc, and the same combinations appear upon evening bonnets and toques of velvet and lace, with short plumes and aigrettes for garniture. Roselle.