Fashion Notes.

New Zealand Mail, Issue 998, 17 April 1891, Page 6

Fashion Notes.

Although velvet sleeves are not much seen in jackets of the ordinary kind, yet where they accompanv costumes, and there is velvet or plush in the skirt the sleeves are generally of the velvet, and thero are sometimes stole ends of velvet or plush from the neck or shoulders down the front of the jacket.

Long-haired, or soft, fluffy furs seem now very popular, but the cloth imitations and the prohibitive price of real Astraohan do much to prevent its popularity, and a jacket trimmed with the real fur is so much marked that it cannot be worn as frequently as ordinary furs. Brown skuuk is always fashionable, and forms a handsome trimming for dresses or mantles, and can be used again and again ; and marten tail, although costly, is always a good investment, and can be renovated and alterod season after Beason with good effect.

The metallic-coloured or natural coque feathers are much used for ruches and trimmings on dark olive or black mantles, and one lovely paletot lately imported from London has the body-part of olive-green cloth, brocaded with a lighter shade, and long wiDg sleeves of olive plush ; the- whole trimmed with handsome jet, and bordered with the green coques plumes.

Fur is much used on habit cloth, and heliotrope is most fashionable when trimmed with glossy brown fur ; or, a red dark olive is also trimmed with blue fur, with beaver or grey Astraehan. Black costumes are immensely popular, and one very handsome model of steel-grey cloth, with just a of black velvet showing at one side of the skirt, and with velvet sleeves in the jacket, had a narrow square apron, bordered with a fringe of glossy black hackle feathers, and the neck and front of jacket trimmed with what looked like a hackle boa sewn ou to the edge of the front.

A novel, convenient, and ingenious design is shown, by which means a cape when unfastened can bo thrown off the shoulders and yet retain its position at the back without having to be taken entirely off, and without fear of its being dragged away or lost. For visiting places of amusement or * At homes ’ it i 3 just what is needed, and it could be attached to any cape or mantle. It consists of two bands of about 3 £ or 2 inches wide, made of same material as the lining, one end of each being fastened to the shoulder seam just below the collar ; the other ends reach to the waist, and are sewn within two or three inches of the front to a band that goes round the waist. This band is made the same width as the shoulder straps and of the same material, and is firmly sewn at the back of the waist, and fastens in front with a buckle. Should the lining be of a thin material then it would be necessary to line the straps and bands.

A very pretty gown, simple but stylish, is made of the ever-useful and becoming navy blue serge. The bodice is very pretty, and is fastened invisibly under the left shoulder, round the arm, and under the arm to below the waist. The pointed basque of the bodice is prettily ornamented with navy blue and silver braid. The sleeves are full and puffed to the elbow over a tight-fitting cuff. Tbo skirt is simply cut, and made with gores, so that it fits closely to the figure, and is bordered with a deep hem, finished by several rows of stitching. The high collar band is also trimmed with the braid.

Girdles of all descriptions, plain or richly beaded, hold a prominent position in fashionable circles. They certainly add stylo and finish to a plain gown, but the high price of even the simple ones prevent many from indulging in one of fashion’s freaks. All who desire to invest in a girdle will find it more economical to buy or 3 yards of passementerie trimming, and neatly sew at each end two or three silk-corded mantle drops or balls. A better article will,then be bad at less cost.

A very pretty inexpensive costume for a young girl is mordor6 habit cloth, with a plainly-draped skirt set in flat pleats at the back. The hips are fitted closely, and a girdle of plaited cord is fastened round the basque of the plain bodice, and droops on the left side to apparently hold up the drapery slightly, and reveal a small facing of brown plusli, which simulates an underskirt, and is bordered with brown fur.

Hats are pronounced in shape often, but the headdress which has usurped the place of the bonnet proper is just a headdress, and nothing more. It is not intended to fit the head, but only to be perched upon the summit, and kept there by thrusting long pins through and through; these piercing the hair, which is raised in a pile, keeps the ridiculous thing front departing with the first puff of wind that happens to stray that way, for a whiff would be sufficient to carry off bodily a topknot that is merely a crown of feather tips, velvet loops, and other scraps of millinery.

A handsome going away dress for a bride was made down South the other cay as follows :—The material consisted of the fashionable fine face cloth in that most exquisite of all shades —heliotrope. The jacket bodice was cut the three-quarter length now so fashionable, and opened over a vest of velvet, in that sweetest of colours, silver gray. The revCrs were edged with oxidised silver braid, harmonising most beautifully with the grey velvet. The front of the skirt fitted closely, and was trimmed with three rows of graduated grey velvet, placed near the edge of the skirt, whilst the back hung in graceful, fan-like pleats. Silver braid ornamented the cuffs and collar, and was very artistically introduced on the most elegant of grey felt hats, the crown of which was in heliotrope velvet. This completed a really becoming and artistic costume.