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Readers' Problems

Some Queries Answered i Spray Mixtures. Please advise your opinion regarding (ho pros and cons of (a) Colloidal copper, (b) Colloidal sulphur, (c) Bordeaux mixture. J have heard so many conflicting reports about the advantages and superiority of each in controlling potato and tomato blight. Can you give me a recipe for making Bordeaux mixture? What blight would be attacking my cabbages at this season of the year, (he stems and leaves have the appearance of potato blight? T.W.T.. Whangarei (a) There is always a danger of burning the foliage with colloidal copper unless it is carefully handled. As an emergency spray it is frequently useful, but will not displace the Bordeaux, (b) Colloidal sulphur has many uses for summer sprays where sulphur is required to control rusts and mildews, but is usually added to lime sulphur to increase its cflectiveness. The best brands are sulphur in suspension in a very finely divided form which gives a good cover, (c) Bordeaux mixture has stood the test of time as a specific for potato and tomato blight and properly made and applied is effoctivo Winter strength Bordeaux for leafless trees, for the control of leaf curl and such like troubles is Sib. bluestone, 01b. lime, -111 gallons of water. For summer use on green leafed plants, four of bluestone, four of lime, to 10 rallons of water, or alternatively three of bluestone. four or lime, to SO gallons of water. In all cases it should bo remembered that these sprays are not cures but preventives and stio-ild be applied in advance of disease appearing. Once a crop is badly affectecj, results from the sprays are not so good. (2) There are quite a number of diseases which would attack cabbage at this season of the year, but it is probably virus, but cannot say without examination of a specimen. One of the symptoms is a mottling and stunting of the foliage, ■" with numbers of small black rin? spots which eventually turn brown. There is no fcure for this, it is best to burn infected plants. Institute of Horticulture.—Could you kindly advise me in your inquiry column, what procedure is necessary for ohe to grain a diplopia from the New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, or advise as to whom I should apply for the necessary information.— Diploma, New Lynn. If you apply to the Dominion Secretary, Institute of Horticulture, P.O. Box 1207, Wellington, full information of tho examinations will be sent to you. Defoliation of Orange.—Would yon kindly say, what in your opinion has caused the browning off of the enclosed leaves and tips of a small poorman orange. Tho other trees are perfectly green and healthy, and this one now that it has lost its leaves seems as though it will recover. However, I am at a loss to account for its action. Would you also advise the remedy for the blight which has attacked my celery. Sample enclosed.— Trees," St. Heliers. Tho trouble with the orange is anthracnose. commonly called withor-tip from its action. This disease will defoliate both orange and lemon very quickly. Cut ofT and bum the dead tips and also dead leaves. Spray with Bordeaux powder at one ounce to one gallon of water. Spray tho healthv trees as well as a precaution, for tho trouble soon spreads. The above spray given in early autumn will prevent a number of citrus troubles. (2) The celery is attacked by rust. During the growing season give periodical sprayings with Bordeaux powder at one ounce to one gallon. It is too late now to have very much effect.

Planting Fruit Trees.—l would be thankful to receive advico and information through tho medium of your valuable garden columns. regarding the treatment and establishment of the best variety of fig, one tree, and a number of gooseberries, to be planted in the New Lynn district. These to be suitablo for household purposes. Tho soil is cold in winter and inclined to bo heavy.—"Novice " New Lynn. The cold position would suit tho gooseberries but would not be quite so suitablo for the fig. It may, however, be possible, to give tho fig as sunny a position as possible, and also see that tho site is well drained. These are the two most important points. One troo of White Adriatic fig will be satisfactory as there will bo no pollination problems. I?or gooseberries, Farmer's dory and Webb's Prizetaker will give you a good red and yellow. Both the gooseberries and Sg appreciate organic manures, but should not be put in when planting, applv ns a mulch on the surface of tho soil after planting. An annu/jl dressing should keep the bushes in good growth. Wood ashes aro also of benefit to gooseberries for the potash they contain Identification of Hedge Plant.—(l) Kindly name the enclosed slip of hedge plant. OJ) Correct distance to plant, apart. (.'5) Would the present be a suitable time for transplanting to another position?—E.H., Avondale U) Escallonia Ingramii. ('_>) Fifteen to eighteen inches apart. (3) The present is a good time for transplanting. Cauliflower Plants Diseased.—Can you Bay what is tho cause of cauliflower plants, after being planted out for two months, going brown round the edge of tho leaves. Tho leaves then wither and droop, and tho hoart of tho plant rots from the centre down tho stem. Finally the plant diesP Strange to say, plants from the same grower havo done likewiso in other parts of tho district.—S.A., Hamilton. There are several diseases which might cause the symptoms mentioned, and it is impossible to suggest a remedy until tho exact trouble is diagnosed. If you can send a specimen for examination it. may bo possible to solve tho difficulty. In any case you did not cncloso name and address. Blue Mould on Orange,—Kindly adviso cause of mould on enclosed orange. I nicked a few dozen three weeks ago, stored loosely on a shelf, all wero then apparently sound. Two or three have gone similarly. Those on the tree do not seem to bo affected. If stored in close contact, as in a case, would this mould spread and spoil tho rest?—"Orango." Mt. F,den. Tho trouble is the blue mould fungus tho spores of which are always present and gain an entrance through injuries to the skin. Cut the stems short when picking so that no punctures arc made in tho skins of olhcr fruit. Wash the fruit after picking in a solution of bluestone. quarter ounco to ten gallons of water. Dry, then allow to sweat for a few days, finally wrap each fruit in a pioco of newspaper, storing in i cool, dark place, preferably in cases. The mould spreads quickly from ono , fruit to another, but the above treatment will destroy any spores present on thb fruit, and by wrapping, each fruit is isolated, that the fruit should keop for a considerable time. Plants for Steop Blope,—l am wishing to plant p'.stoej) slope with some ground creeper, a Roweririg ono if possiblo. I am not fond of the common ice plant, but need something that will cover the light soil and keep it from washing away. If you can suggest something for the purpose, either as seed to bo sown, or plants to be planted. I will bo gratoful. —"II.," Hamilton. Gazania splondciis would cover the slope satisfactorilyi tho flowers aro freely produced

and are goUien orango with black centres. There are several varieties of venidium with Dowers of various colours which would bo suitable. Tho habit of this latter Is more trailing than the gazania. In both cases plants could be procured and planted. Whilo these are growing it would be a good plan to broadcast some seed of the single portnlacca at the end of October. This would give you a good display in the first season. The aspect of the slope is, of course, the deciding factor. All these plants mentioned require plenty of sunshine. If the bank is shady ivy would be an alternative Dividing Cypripcdiums.—Would you kindly answer the following questions:—(l) I havo ono of the common varieties of slipper orchids in a pot. This year it had five flowers and each one seemed to come from a separate clump of leaves. Could I lift ono of tho clumps and put it in a separate pot? (2) How are orchids generally increased? (3) I havo a perpetual carnation in a pot. How would I get it to flower in autumn or winter.—J.E.B.. Ponsonby. (1) Tho slipper orchid can be divided if necessary immediately after the flowers aro past. Turn the plant out of its pot, then tho plants can be carefully separated into pieces. The roots of orchids frequently adhere very firmly to tho inside of tho not, and it is often tho better way to break tho pot to save damaging the roots. (2) The principal method of increaso of stock with orchids is by division of tho plants Some species which have long pscudo bulbs are increased by cuttings. Raising from seed is specialist's work and is yond the capacity of tho average grower. (3) Perpetual carnations aro made to flower in winter by a system of "stopping" tho shoots. Tho last stopping, if late autumn or early winter flower is required, should bo about tho end of January. By stopping is meant taking out tho tops of the shoots which are running up to flower. There will, of course, be no flowors during tho summer. Seedling Troe. —I encloso a cutting from a small tree in my garden and will bo pleased if you would kindly let me know whether it is a fruit treo of any description.—R.E.M., Urenui. Tho treo is an applo, probably a seedling. As a rulo seedlings are of little use, but it can bo used as a stock on which to graft another variely. Identification of Shrub.—l will bo gratofnl if you will inform mo of tho name of tho specimen of leaves and berries enclosed, and whether it is suitablo for growing in a lawn hero in Auckland. Tho shrub from which tho piece was taken is growing at Kati Kati.— "Shrub," C.E.S., Epsom. Tho shrub is tho evergreen flrethorn, Pyracantha coccinea. It should mako a good shrub here in Auckland, although perhaps it will not berry quite so freely as in a cooler climate Aphis on Apple.—l am enclosing cuttings from an apple tree. Will you please lot me know the cause of these galls and the remody?—D.C.C., To Aroha. The galls have been caused by woolly aphis. Spraying at the present time with tar distillate will kill the oggs. Directions will bo found on the. container. It iR a good plan to have a tin of kerosene and a brush hanging in tho tree, and evor.v time tho while woolly masses are seen during tho summer, give them a rub with the brush dipped in kerosene. Citrus Trees to Plant.—Will you please inform mo of tho most suitablo grapevine to plant for outside growing? Some vinos. I understand, do not require so much thinning of the immature fruit in tho ripened bunches. Also, what lemon and orango should I plant in Dovonport ?—"Vine," Dovonport. The best grapevine for you to plant out-of-doors is tho Albany Surprise. For general purposes Lisbon lemon will bo the most satisfactory, Sweet orange. Luo Gim Gong or Golden Nuggot. Grapefruit, Morrison's Seedless.

Thrips on Rhododendron.—Enclosed leaves from rhododendron have a bad blight, which has spread from another shrub lately destroyed. Could you tell us what spray to use. as we do not wish to destroy the old treo? — J.C., Te Puko. The leaves are affected with thrips. Spray with white oil emulsion at two per cent strength and burn all fallen leaves. Nicotine sulphate and soap applied at intervals during tho summer will help to control the pest.

Bait for Slugs and Snails.—l shall be glad if you will give, through your columns, tho prescription for "slug trap" with bran as the base. —"Slug Trap," Onehunga. With six pounds of coarse bran mix a ouarter of a pound of Paris Green. Shako the poison over the bran by means of a tin with holes in the lid, stirring all the time so that it is thoroughly mixed. This may be stored dry. When required for use. moisten some of the bran with water in which two tablespoons of treacle have been dissolved. Half oranges with tho pulp scooped out make excellent slug traps. Simply place cut side downwards, tilt one side so that tho slugs can enter, and examine every morning. Loofah Plants. —In the supplement of July 1), loofah plants are mentioned as being grown in Auckland. Some years ago I purchased some seeds from Birkenhead, or near there. I have often wondered if they could bo" procured again, also the allabassha. I am not sure of the correct spelling of the latter Unfortunately I did not keep the address, but I would bo glad to get some of tho seeds of the above for my son at tho seaside. The soeds came up here, but would not thrive so far inland.— Interested." Tirau. Thanks for your information that loofahs had been grown here before. The seeds were probably obtained from tho noted garden of the late Clement Wragge at Birkenhead Unfortunately, the garden is now a thing of the past. The other plant mentioned would probably bo a calabash. Trees not Fruiting.—l havo a plum tree several years old which has not fruited except for one plum tho season before last. It was green and sweet, evidently quite ripe. Would it be a greengage, and does it need another ono to make it fruit? I also have a pear tree that has not borne fruit yet. Both of these trees always have their leaves eaten by leech. —C.A.C., Maungaturoto. The plum is probably a greengage, and the English plums are very uncertain fruiters in tho Northern climate. Pollination by another tree may possibly help, but you do not say whether the tree flowers well and sets no fruit, or fails to flower at all. There is a wide difference in the treatment. Pears aro some times a long time in coming into bearing, especially when on a seedling stock. If the tree is growing strongly it would pay to root prune it. For the leech, spray with arsenate of lead, half an ounce to ono gallon of water. Beedling Citrus. — Please answer tho following questions:—(l) When is the right, time to plant oranges and lemons so as to grow trees, and how long do they take to gorminato? (2) What iB a good manure with which to topdross the ground before transplanting onion plants? (3) Is it too early to sow leek and celery seed? (I) The oranges and lemons can be put in tho ground in September, and will take two or three months to germinate. It should be clearly understood that the seedlings raised will be useless for fruiting purposes, and can only bo used as stocks on which to bud or graft known good varieties. (2) If tho soil has been well prepared by deep digging and manuring, no topdressing should be necessary before planting, if, however, the soil is known to be poor, applv blood and bone, three parts to one part of sulphate of potash a fortnight before planting. CD It is not too early to sow leek and celery seed, but the latter would need to be sown in a glasshouse. Hie leeks can be sown out-of-doors.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19380723.2.218.51

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 23097, 23 July 1938, Page 10 (Supplement)

Word Count
2,591

Readers' Problems New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 23097, 23 July 1938, Page 10 (Supplement)

Readers' Problems New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXV, Issue 23097, 23 July 1938, Page 10 (Supplement)

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