EVEREST EXPEDITION

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22468, 11 July 1936, Page 13

EVEREST EXPEDITION

MESSAGE FROM LEADER STRUGGLE TO BITTER END VALUABLE LESSONS LEARNED (Received July 10, 5.35 p.m.) LONDON, July O A copyright message from Mr. Hugh Ruttledge, leader of the British Everest Expedition, at Darjeeling reads as follows: —"The outstanding lesson learned bv the expedition is that unfortunately meteorological science cannot forecast far ahead. "The early indications were normal and to the effect that the monsoon could bo expected between June 10 and 15. Actually, however, it arrived on May 24. "The final effort to ascend the west side of the main Rongbuk Glacier gives reason for the belief that in good conditions this route would be more feasible and safer than the cast side of the north col, but heavy snow prevented a complete examination. "It has been an honour to servo with this party, which struggled to the bitter end against very heavy odds, risked all to ascertain the limits of possible effort and then accepted defeat without bitterness. The climbers proved that the east side of the north col must be left alone when the monsoon arrives, but the west side will be worth an attempt early on the next attack. Possibly it can be used even after the monsoon has begun. We must realise that in some years, such as this, Mount Everest is unapproachable. "Contact with another expedition appears to have engendered an even friendlier attitude on the part of Tibetan officials, and the people of the country. We must not give up, but must hope for permission to try again."