MOUNT EVEREST

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXIII, Issue 22320, 18 January 1936, Page 13

MOUNT EVEREST

BRITISH EXPEDITION ADVANCE PARTY'S WORK NARRATIVE OF LEADER By Telepraph—Press Association—Copyright (Received January 17. 5.5 p.m.) LONDON, Jan. 16 The famous explorer Mr. C. E. Shipton in the Daily Telegraph is describing in serial form his reconnaissance expedition to Mount Everest in June, when he secured valuable data for Mr. Hugh Ruttledge's forthcoming assault on the summit. Mr. Shipton says that Messrs. Tilman, Bryant, Kempson and Wig- ■ ram and Dr. Warren participated, led by himself. They were received everywhere with courtesy and hospitality by the Tibetans. Everest was covered with monsoon snow. Mr. Shipton recounts the finding of the body of Maurice Wilson above Camp No. 3. He says the aspect of the North Col had changed considerably since 1933. The middle section of the old route was contorted beyond recognition into & mass of tottering seracs which would have rendered the 1933 route difficult, if not impracticable. The ledge on which had been the old site of Camp No. 4 had completely disappeared a»ad the ice was too thick for the pitching of a tent. The big Arctic tent and food dump left in 1933 on the site of the old Camp Iva was buried under Bft. of snow. Eventually a camp was established at the foot of the north-east ridgt? of Everest and was stocked with \food and fuel to last 15 days. "Actually we were in a position to attempt to reach the summit had the snow conditions been favourable," says Mr. Shipton. "The ease and speed with which we gained the position is strong evidence of the advantage of a light, mobile party over a cumbersome one. "We had established ourselves on the North Col in less than a week after leaving Rongbuk. We spent four days waiting for better weather, but it seemed a waste of time so we decided to descend to Camp No. 3 and climb the peaks in that vicinity until the conditions improved."

The advance party of the Mount Everest expedition, under the leadership of Mr. C. E. Shipton, who participated in the 1933 attempt, left England on May 2 in order to prepare the way for the main expedition, under Mr. Hugh Butt-ledge. The latter will leave this month, and the attempt to reach the summit will be made in March or early in April.