MODES IN LINGERIE

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22117, 24 May 1935, Page 5

MODES IN LINGERIE

/ Br BARBARA

WORK FOR CLEVER FINGERS •CUT AND FIT ARE VITAL

This week 1' have sketched for you two delectable nightgowns. The first of them is most individual in design. It is a revival of the long-sleeved nightdress of twenty years ago—but with a difference. It is a sophisticated affair, almost formal enough to be worn as a negligee, yet by virtue of its long sleeves is warm and comfortable for ■winter niirhts. The material is crepebacked satin in a rose blush colour with a contrasting sash of a deeper pink. The wide sleeves and bodice are gathered on to a circular yoke and the skirt is cue on the bias. The other nightgown is completely cut on the cross and it also is made of crepe-back satin, this time in white, and is trimmed with Alencon lace in a darkish grey. It is a contradiction of naivete and sophistication with its high neckline and turndown collar in front and low V-back behind. Both these nightgowns are easy to make and both are effective. Nowadays many smart women who do no dressmaking find it both economical and interesting to make their own lingerie. There is no need for the designs or trimming to be elaborate — in fact the more simple and tailored garments are very often the best. Cut and fit are the essential factors. Thei« are, however, engaging wava of trimming one's "undies" which do not entail difficult embroideries and which give to the wearer just that little aldded something which distinguishes her from her less attractive sisters. Although they may be seen by no one else, yet they give her confidence and a sense of wellbeing. If we wish to tread the true road to chic our best plan is to begin at the inside and work: our way out. The underclothes of to-day are equigitelv feminine and completely unobtrusive. Nearly all of them are cut on the cross with no suggestion of bulk and are consequently undetectable even under the closest fitting frock. The most popular materials are crepe de chine, triple ninon, crepesbacked satin, georgette, chiffon and in winter time, of course, light-weight wool. If you want to bring your "undie" wardrobe up to standard, here is a lisit which should help you. It is based on the requirements of the average woman

and is consequently not extravagant but nevertheless completely adequate. ■ Six pairs of tailored panties for everyday wear. Suggested materials crepe de *. chine or triple , ninon trimmed either with contrasting; bind of same material and monogram or narrow net lace frilled on to the edge. Three vests to match. Two slips to match pant-its with the same trimming. These should be cut on the cross. One satin set of slip and panties for afternoon wear. Trimming—Alencon lace. Two pairs of evening panties—either chiffon, satin, georgette or triple ninon. Trimming slightly more frivolous than other panties. ,« 'Two pairs tailored crepe de chine pyjamas, _ Two crepe de chine nightdresses with •imple trimming. Two more elaborate nightdresses for best wear, material either fiatin, chiffon or triple ninon. One may be Cut on the cross with cowl neckline and no trimming and one may be similar to either of the nightgowns in my ■„ Bketch. Evening slips I have not mentioned as they aro nearly always made to be Torn with one frock only. In the preceding list no word has been said of the foundation garment which is, of course, the most important of all. This is because it is a garment which must be fitted to suit the

individual, as different types of figures require different forms of support. There'is one new type of corset, now- ' sver, which is 'enjoying an increasing Popularity and that is the suspenderless belt, which is made in the shape °f close-fitting trunks. This corset is worn either for sports with no stockjHgs or in the evening with the new knop-length stockings. It is both tfoinfojtable and practical. Even the slightest figure cannot afford to go completely unsupported and this corset • n,o 'ilils the figure firmly without undue restriction. ?::■ -^' so not mentioned in the list 'are X *°ollen " undies," as theae are required in winter time only. To-day we car > have no reason for not wearing :.;*ool. They are now made in exquisitely Sheer wool and the snuggest of designs. y°o that as well as being warm and '.wmifortabip they are cut and fitted as , wnily as any silken garment. For .V.lyPPter wear I would suggest three sets & wool lon trunks and vests instead of 0 the " everyday panties." myosts by the way are rapidly becom,H*R obsolete. They are npt to spoil the _st.of a corset and consequently many Pjroen never wear them except in cold : J®*ther. Provided «your corsets are j: regularly you are better

without them, but if you do wear a vest be sure that it is on top of your brassiere. If you prefer to buy your " undies " ready made you will find it profitable to inspect some of the Chinese wares Only two or three years ago the Chinese had no idea how to cut and consequently, although their handwork was exquisite, the garments they made were practicably unwearable. Now, however, all that is changed and many of the most attractive styles come from China. Their embroidery and handwork—hemstitching and faggotting—is- unsurpassed and relatively cheap. Nearly all their underwear is cut on the cross, but it is advisable to try it on before purchasing it. If you are buying a set try on each part as it is quite possible that the sizes of'the various parts will not lie uniform. If this article has inspired you to set to work to make your own undies, I hope that you will think of some original designs and trimmings of your own. In all dressing it is the individual touch that matters.