SCIENCE IN FARMING

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXXII, Issue 22117, 24 May 1935, Page 16

SCIENCE IN FARMING

BY E. A. CLAYTON

TREES AND HEDGES PROTECTION FOR LIVESTOCK BEAUTY AND UTILITY

Now that the winter is here preparations for hedge and tree planting should be put in hand. When considering the point of the greatly enhanced beauty and appeal of a well-treed countryside, the fact must not be lost sight of that shade and shelter trees and neat hedges have also a definite value as protection for livestock from cold weather in winter and spring and the heat of the sun in summer and autumn. It is essential that trees planted for wind shelter —that is, across the line of the prevailing winds —should not be relied upon to give shade from the sun/ unless provision is made for low shelter underneath. If this is done and the stock is allowed actually under the trees, the lower branches will in time be broken off and the real purposo for planting the trees negatived. This can easily be proved by standing under a wind-break of pines or macrocarpa during a westerly blow. If the lower branches have been destroyed a bitterly cold draught will be left. It does not require much imagination to realise that as shelter such trees are useless. Undoubtedly the ideal breakwind is provided by a single row of macrocarpa, where secure fencing is erected on both .sides. The branches will thus be preserved right to the ground. Such a breakwind occupies the minimum amount of ground, a fact often overlooked, but nevertheless an important one, especially on the small type of farm which is the rule to-day. Effective Windbreak

Another effective breakwind that will provide both shade and shelter is a single row of either macrocarpa or eucalypts, with a hedge of barberry planted on the eastern side in the case of the former, and the western side in the case of the latter. With the macrocarpa, the barberry should be planted not less than 15ft. away, and about 9ft. from the gums. Even then the macrocarpa will have to be kept well cut back on the side next to the barberry, or it will overshadow it, making it weak and thin in the foliage and so spoiling its purpose as a draught arrester. Eucalypts can safely be planted Closer to the barberry, owing to their more open and upright growth. A good gum for this type of shelter is E. eucoxylon (var. rosea) (Campbell's Gum). It is a fairly quick grower, fairly bushy and does not grow too tall. Nothing looks more effective on a farm than small clumps of trees. Even single specimens placed here and there will greatly add to the beauty of the landscape. Odd corners, where drains meet, or where it is hard to work with horso implements, can with advantage be planted in trees with very little cost in the way of fencing. This is, of course, the heaviest exponso in any planting scheme. If the deciduous trees were only quicker growing they would bo ideal for shade. Losing their leaves in the winter would then be an advantage, as the better types of grass could then grow right under the trees. Single trees or clumps aro the most difficult to keep secure from stock. It is exceedingly difficult to keep the short lengths*of wire tightly strained, and in these days of heavy stocking fences have to be good, otherwise treo planting is simply so much waste time. The Ideal Farm Tree

For the Auckland Province, if Lawson's cypress is ruled out, only two trees are outstanding for farm planting. Thoy ore pinus insignis and cupressus macrocarpa. It is admitted that in some localities Lawsoniana is in favour, but it is a slow grower and cannot compare with the other two. In the opinion of the writer macrocarpa is the best farm tree for the Auckland Province. There may be odd localities where it is not suitable, but tbev are few and far between. The mistake is often made of planting it too close together. The plants should be put in about four or five yards (12ft. to 15ft.) apart, and just before the tips of the branches meet every other tree should be cut out. This is, of course, when they are being planted in a row ns a wind-break. It may sound rather radical treatment, but one of the main reasons why macrocarpa is inclined to die out is that the trees are often put in only six feet apart. Many single trees may be found with a spread of branches of anything up to 20 yards. Barberry for Hedges

The shelter provided by farm hedges is quite different from that supplied by the larger trees. What, then, are the essentials to look for in a first-class farm hedge? First is the question of subsequent attention, for . once the hedgo has been planted the average fanner wants to be able to forgot about it. It should not grow too tall, nor spread too wide, tbus taking up a lot of valuable ground. It must transplant easily, bo stock-proof, reasonably quick growing, but when mature must remain at an effective size. It must keep its foliage in the winter, and when cut down must make new. growth quickly. Lastly, but by no means least, the plants must be cheap. Berberis vulgaris (common barberry) fulfils practically all the above conditions. It is perhaps a little slow in making growth for the first year or two, but, in the if topdressed, it will average a foot a year. Some seasons, in the absonce of strong westerly winds, it will make a growth of two feet or moro. Barberry transplants easily, but generally it pays to get good two-year plants and put them in not later than the end of June, it starts growth very early in the the young buds that appear on the crown are easily broken off, with a consequent weakening of the plant. Practice in Planting

The general practice in _ planting is .to dig a strip, iv spade's width, directly under the fence lino find put the plants in about nine inches to one foot apart. This has the disadvantage that cattle will be sure to root up the fresh ground with their feet. A better policy is to dig the ground over some time boforo.the actual planting, and then keep the cows away from that fence lino for a week or two after the plants are put in. However, quite good results can bo obtained by simply making a slit in the turf with a sharp spade and putting the plants in this without any further preparation other than a good treading, to firm the soil round the roots. . , If this method is followed it is a good plan not to close the paddocks on both sides at the same time for hay or ensilage, otherwise the grass will grow up above the young barberry plants and smother them. One paddock could, of course, bo shut up for hay when the stock on the other side of the fence would kcop the grass down under the fence lino. There are great advantages where the farm fences have been planted in barberry. There is no cost of upkeep; the Cattle always have shelter; they cannot reach through into the next paddock, and they can be " crushed'-' 1 on without fear of broken fences and cut udders.