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THE ORCHARD

TRANSPLANTING OF TREES The transplanting of fruit and other trees should now be hastened forward as rapidly as conditions will admit. Already m;»ny varieties are rapidly developing their buds, and tho sooner they can be planted the better chance they will have to succeed. In many instances planting hitherto has been delayed on account of rains and the wet condition of the soil, especially when the ground is of a stiff clayey nature. In such ground later planting is preferable to puddling the soil as is almost inevitable when in a sodden condition. The stiffer tho soil in which tho trees aro planted the more need there is for breaking up tho ground as soon as dry enough to work. PROTECTION FROM WINDS When planted in situations not well provided with shelter, or exposed to the prevailing winds, trees should he securely staked before they start into growth. With all evergreen varieties, especially, this precaution should be taken as soon as the trees are planted as they soon commence to make fresh roots that aro easily injured by tlio action of the wind if left unprotected To prevent the bark from becoming chafed a piece of cloth should bo placed around the stem where tho tie i s made. After staking the soil around the trees should be well broken up and, if practicable a good mulch of manure or other material should be placed around each tree. CARE OP OLDER TREES. Older fruit-bearing trees should at this season be given every encouragement. It is at this time that the trees require every assistance, and when the soil should be well broken up and kept frequently stirred to allow the air and..warmth to penetrate and assist to promote healthy root action. In manuring, especially, large fruit-bear-ing trees tlie material applied should bo well scattered as the roots of well-ad-vanced trees naturally travel far out from the main stem. Very deep cultivation should, however, be avoided, for it is when the trees are in a good fruit-bearing condition that the fruit-producing roots are generally near the surface, and must not be mutilated by deep working. BREAKING UP THE SOIL

It is, of course, necessary and essential that the soil should be sufficiently broken up to ensure healthy growth, but it is equally essential that surface fibrous roots should be encouraged and protected. While surface roots are so necessary for the production of regular crops of fruit it naturally follows that such roots are the first to suffer in dry weather, and for this re- <»n some protection is necessary, either by keeping a well-worked, loose surface or by mulching. SPRAYING OPERATIONS Tho spraying of trees if not already finished should no longer be delayed, especially in the case of early flowering varieties such as peaches, nectarines and Japanese plums. Some of these are already bursting into flower, and in such case it may bo unsafe to spray at. full strength. In cases, however, when the buds are not so far advanced spraying can be applied with 6afety. " ~ It is at this time that spraying is most effective, as the spores of fungoids are often secreted under the scales of the buds, and is only when the buds begin to expand that the spores can be destroyed by spraying. With apples and pears there is practically no risk, as they can be sprayed almost any time during the present month.

OITEUS FRUITS In localities subject to severe frosts citrus fruits will have a better chance to succeed if planted during the present month. For any of the citrus fruits the sou cannot be too well prepared, while free drainage should be provided. The plots where the plants are to be placed should be made up with the best soil obtainable. Well decomposed manure or other decayed vegetable matter, well incorporated with the soil, is excellent material to apply. Before planting shorten back any damaged roots, or anv forming a strong tap root, and avoid" planting too deeply in the soil. After the ground has been properlv prepared the safest method is to spread the roots out level with the surface and cover tlie roots with the best soil obtainable. This will form a slight mound, though in a short time, if the ground has been deeply and well prepared, it will naturally sink slightly, leaving the plants almost level with the surrounding surface Planted in this way there will be far less risk of failures than by deeper planting. - 1

TO CORRESPONDENTS " Miner/' Nightcaps.-It is not practicable o attempt the growing of a white thorn Ledge from cuttings, as very few would strike. ~'^ rbor ;" . Remuera.-The specimen is •viddringtonia cupressoides. a verv beautiful and uncommon conifer irom South Africa Plants are not to be obtained locally The white flower is Triteleia uniflora (oneflowered), a very pretty bulbous plant of dwarf growth, suitable for rock garden or planting on a bank. " Moth," Te Aroha.—You wish to kill the grubs that are in your potato sets without destroying the sprouts. Placing them under water overnight would kill the grubs and as , lhey " ear . ] y always pupate close to the skin. I- utilisation with bisulphite of caibon is also recommended. The water Process is the simplest and sufest treatment. 'iauranga.—The chemical properties of the liquid yoa name comprise phosphates, uric acid and urea, both of which latter give rise to ammonia, and also a Jittie potash. Lsed sparingly and not too often, it would benefit lemons and other citrus fruits. Jhe proportion of potash in rotted leave* varies greatly in different plants. Hotted leaves is a most valuable manure for all classes of plants.

' Novice." i'arnell.—Tropaeolum sneciosum (the flame-flowered nasturtium) does not thrive in Auckland. In Dunediu it succeeds well and is preatly adinired for its brilliant colour. Tropaeolum tricolorum thrives and flowers freely. It 13 a very showy twiner. The seed vessels that von have sent belong to the common aider (Alnus gentinosa), It thrives well in sw;#nn soils and is very suitable for growing near tiie edges of ponds.

" Bulbs," Birkenhead.—ln the culture under glass of narcissus. Soliel d'Or and other suitable varieties in pots for eniiv flowering, select well-ripened bulbs. Pot them into sin. or 6in. pots and place from three to four bulbs in each pot in a good o compost of fibry loam and manure in about equal parts, with some river sand intermixed. Press the base of the bulbs firnilv into the soil. Pot early in February. Place the pots in the frame, and cover them with Cin. of ashes "When the Dots become filled with roots remove the ashes and expose them to the benefit of the sun. To provide air, place a tilt under the back of the light. If you intend to gro.v them in the class frame without potting, make up a good compost and insert the bulbs in rows, placing them Cin. apart In the rows and Sin. between eacji row. Shadu the frame until the roots have well started, and also ventilate. Plant as soon as well-matured bulbs are available. Anemones for e<irlv fowe'inir should be arranged in rows, dive ench Dlsnl room to develop and insert t ; nj rao*n Gin. deep. Anev.o.cs make admirjb'.e p.A,iVms;B. liEl'Oo.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH19320903.2.177.62

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21278, 3 September 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,205

THE ORCHARD New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21278, 3 September 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)

THE ORCHARD New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIX, Issue 21278, 3 September 1932, Page 8 (Supplement)