THE HOME GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19376, 10 July 1926, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE HOME GARDEN.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. II notes are taken each season of the different crops, soils, manures used, and the results obtained, the cultivator would become acquainted with the character of the soil, and be in a better position to work to the best advantage. Land of a stiff, retentive nature can be wonderfully improved by the free use of vegetable ashes and compost. Every bit of refuse, such as hedge clippings, broken stakes, stamps of cabbages and other vegetable matter that is not easily rotted, should be burnt. Coveting the heap with soil, after it is once well alight, will, too, add useful material for stiff soils. Potatoes that have been sprouted should be planted us soon as weather permits. Before planting, reduce all but about two of the strongest and most promising sprouts. Turnips mature more quickly than most other vegetables, and, when full grown, remain but a short time in a stage of usefulness. For this reason, to maintain.a supply, sowing should be made at this season about every four weeks. Lettuces are in demand at all seasons of the year, and with care in successional sowing and planting, and protecting the plants during their earlier stages of growth, a supply can be maintained throughout the whole winter "months. Give timely attention to thinning out seedling crops, also to weeding and keeping the ground frequently stirred. In sowing any varieties of seeds at this season the seeds should not be stinted, as it is a much more simple matter to thin out than to replace if they fail through scanty sowing.

• ■ • . . • $;• f• • • A DELICIOUS VEGETABLE. WELL-GROWN ASPARAGUS. Although not as extensively grown as many ..other garden crops, there are few vegetables more in demand during its season of growth than well-grown asparagus. One great advantage of a well-pre-pared plot or bed of asparagus, is, that with a reasonable amount of care and an occasional application of stimulating manure, the same plants will produce satis-

factory crops for many years without being renewed. The measure of success attained, however, depends largely upon the way the ground is prepared, so that the'better condition the ground is placed in before planting, the longer the plants will continue to give satisfactory returns to the grower. SOILS FOE ASPARAGUS. Although asparagus succeeds best in soils of a deep loamy or alluvial nature, it can be successfully grown in any good garden soil, providing it is deeply worked and well manured and provision made for the free outlet of surplus moisture. Some time ago intending planters were advised to take advantage of favourable weather to proceed with this work, for, I although planting can be safely performed up to the end of August, the advantage of having the ground prepared beforehand is that it allows the manure to decompose, and the soil to sweeten, and be in good heart by the time of planting. BEDS FOB ASPAEAGUS. In small gardens where the crop is grown simply for home consumption, raised beds are preferable to planting on the level ground. The fact of the beds being slightly raised enables the crop to be more easily kept clean, while the crowns are far less liable to be trodden upon when the plants are dormant. Surface water is more quickly disposed of and warmth added to the soil.

PROGRAMME OF WORK.

PREPABING ASPARAGUS BEDS. In preparing the bed the ground should be trenched from 20in. to 2ft. in depth, according to the nature of the soil. Break up the bottom of the trench and place in a thick layer of decayed vegetable matter. If the ground is at all of a stiff retentive nature, any garden refuse, even such as hedge clippings, placed on the bottom, will assist in providing drainage. As the trenching proceeds, any gritty substance such as Durnt refuse, charcoal, sancl, lime, and rubble as well as manure, should be placed over each layer of soil until the top is reached. Sea-sand or. even seaweed is excellent, for working in the soil

SOIL, FOOD AND OEOPS. In preparing the beds it must be borne in mind that the strength of shoots can only be obtained in proportion as th 6 roots are kept supplied with the necessary food. If the beds are formed five feet in width it will allow of three rows to be planted. . Arrange the plants alternately from 18in. to 20in. apart throughout the bed. In procuring the plants, select strong one-year-old roots that have been carefully lifted with all the roots, if possible, intact. GROWING LOGANBERRIES. INCREASING POPULARITY. This fruit is becoming increasingly popular each year, and, as it succeeds in almost any variety of soil, should have a place in every garden. Plants under reasonable treatment will produce several shoots ranging from 6ft. to 12ft. in length each season. The one-year-old shoots produce bunches of fruit almost the entire length of the shoots. These, like the raspberry, from which it. is claimed to be a cross, produce their fruit upon the previous year's growth, whioh, after fruiting, dies away, while the young shoots take their place each season. The pruning simply consists in cutting out the old wood, and shortening back the top of the young or fruiting snoots to the height the shoots are required to be trained. These, unlike the raspberry, do not sucker from the roots, and can be successfully grown if trained on dividing fences or trellis. The ground should be kept free from weeds, out not too deeply dug near the roots.

THE FLOWER GARDEN, Spraying the foliage of plants before sunrise in frosty moimings with the spray pump or watering can is the simplest means of saving those that are likely to be injured by frosts, Bright, sunny days, have dried the surface of the ground, leaving a h§rd crust; this must be broken by a light forking to admit the ameliorating effects of the sun and atmosphere, and to benefit the plants and impart a better appearance to the garden. Bulbs, notably anemones, ranunculi, freesias, and daffodils, are making good progress, several being already in flower. 'Keep the soil between the rows and in the beds wall stirred, and keep a sharp look-out for and destroy slugs. " Proceed with the propagation of chrysanthemums, from cuttings or from rooted suckers. Rooted suckers potted into 3in. pots provide plants to grow on slowly and be fit for bedding-out in October. Hedges composed of conifers, such as junipers, cupressus, macrocarpa, and Lawsoniana, and thujas, may be pruned any time this month; the annual clipping is sufficient. Tree ferns should be planted now; small plants, with stems about 6in. long, are the best to select, as they invariably make the best specimens. Palms: In planting phoenix canariensis, phoenix dactylifera, etc., ram the soil tightly around them, firm planting being essential. Bouvardias should be protected where severe frosts occur; cut the tops back to within 6in. of the soil, and throw a little litter over them. This will save them.

PLANTING HEDGESSHELTER AND PRIVACY. Whether for shelter or ornamental purposes or dividing the kitchen from the flower gal-den, as well as adding to the privacy of tho grounds, hedges are indispensable adjuncts. Their value is appreciated at certain seasons when the severe westerly winds play havoc with the flower garden. In our mild climate, quite a number of shrubs may be utilised. Mixed hedges composed of several kinds have a pleasing effect, being a change from the orthodox hedge plants. Intermixing a few free-flowering varieties produces a more ornamental appearance. VARIETIES Off HEDGE PLANTS. Tecoma capensis is very generally planted, bnt will not where heavy frosts occur. It makes an extremely beautiful ornamental evergreen hedge, clips well, and forms a close, compact breakwind. In the autnmn its dark, glossy, green foliage contrasts with its showy spikes of brilliant orange scarlet blossoms. Too frequent clippings are injurious to* this hedge and, to some extent, accountable for its becoming shabby and dying in places. Abelia floribunda, an exceedingly ornamental species, a compact-growing and profuse flowering evergreen. hardy shrub, is easily kept in order, and requires but little clipping, and is most suitable for smaller grounds, and, when better known, will become most popular. Plant 18in, apart, and do not prune until aftel' it has completed its flowering. ESOALLONIAS. There are several varieties of these hardy, evergreen, flowering shrubs, all excepting the variety Monte vidensis, being admirably adapted for hedges. Arrange the plants from 16in. to 18in. apart. Es~ callonia macrantha has dark, glossy, green foliage and pink flowers; other kinds are macrantha species, ir.grami and exoniensis. Mixed together, they produce a pretty combination. OLEARIA FORSTEEI. This is another pretty species specially adapted for planting near the sea coast. It is very hardy, of dense growth, only needs an annual clipping and is most suitable for exposed positions. Cosproma Baueri has glossy, green foliage, also.useful for planting near the sea. LIGTJSTRUMS. Privets are hardy and extensively grown. Undulatum, the small-leaved variety, is of dense, compact growth and suitable for planting near roadsides. It stands sevare treatment, clips well, and is permanent. Sinensis, the Chinese privet, is of rapid growth, makes a fine ornamental, evergreen hedge, and is useful for a breakwind. Will succeed in almost any soil. Ligustruins impoverish the ground for some distance on either side, and are not recommended where cropping or flower growing is carried on close up to the hedge row. Plant from 16in. to 20ir>. apart.