PRUNING THE PEAR.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LXIII, Issue 19372, 6 July 1926, Page 16

PRUNING THE PEAR.

The pruning of the pear is very similar to the pruning of the applo and, therefore, it tvill not be necessary to deal with it at any length. One of the main differences is the shape in which the tree is trained. Whereas, the majority of applo trees are trained to a cup-shape, tho shape of the pear differs. Although some trees are trained to their natural shape, which is that of a cone. most, pear trees are trained in the shape of an inverted cone. To attain this latter form, a central limb should be allowed to make a strong growth for 'a couple of years, and then it should be completely suppressed. This gives rise to strong, leading shoots which may be trained to the shape desired. The First Winter Pruning. At the first winter pruning these shoots should be left fairly long if they are sturdy. Otherwise they will need to be pruned closely. If one be in doubt as to whether the lender be strong enough to leave fairly long, it is better to assume that it is not, and then one is on the safe side The wood of the pear is more brittle than that of the apple and therefore needs to he stouter to carry the same weight. Pruning Leaders.^ The leader is pruned to direct the form of the tree arid later to regulate the activity during the growing season. Close pruning is generally necessary for the first few seasons, but when the leader has performed its first function a greater length is retained each successive pruning. When the fruiting habit has been succesfully promoted the leader is left almost unpruned, except'in'order to maintain its general direction or to increase the vigour of a tree that is on the decline. The pruning of the leaf twigs and spurs and the fruit laterals and spurs is exactly similar to the attention needed by similar growths of the apple. Renovation of Pear Trees. The pear is a tree which is renovated quite easily under normal conditions. The common need for renovation is because the top has become so jumbled or the laterals and spurs so reduced in vigour that the tree is useless. When this is so, a good many of the leaders should be removed, retaining those which are likely to be tho most useful. The laterals and spurs on thoso retained should be shortened back to the rings marking thfe end of a season's growth or to a subdivision. All branches which are not in accordance with the desired type should be removed. Grafting Pears.

When it is desired to change the variety the lop is cut back. If the main arms are suitably spaced and not too high, the grafts may be inserted in them, but where they are not suitable the tree should be'cut back to a stump to the height desired. The grafts are inserted around this stump, the number being left to the judgment of the grower. Usually five or six will be the most suitable number. To prevent these from developing into suckers any shoots which arise from below the grafts should be retained to accelerate the balancing of the top and the. roots. These shoots may be removed anytime it is so desired. A tree which is of a suitable type and healthy, but is unproductive may be rootpruned to rectify this. Another method to induce fiuitfulness is to ringbark the tree late in winter. This is done by removing a complete strip of bark up to half an inch wide, from the trunk. Both these methods bring about a reduction in vigour which increases the fruit production.