THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume LVI, Issue 17276, 27 September 1919, Page 3 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

SPROUTED ONIONS.

ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS AND TREES. Deciduous trees and shrubs are rapidly bursting into leaf and flowers. The many tints of young foliage are a pleasing sight at this season of the year. Fruit-bearing trees, notably Japanese plums and earlyflowering pears, together with peaches, nectarines, and quinces, are wreathed in the greatest profusion of lovely blossoms. Evergreens of every description are bursting into new growth, and some into flower. Deciduous shrubs, notably the double-flowered and single hardy spiraeas, are a mass of snow-white blossoms. The double flowering peaches are conspicuous objects at this season, and well worthy of a place in the mixed border or Shrubbery. Climbing Plants. Clematis-Montana and' clematis indivisa, our New Zealand species, are both lovely climbers that enliven our gardens with a wealth of single blossoms. Climbing roses, notably that best of all varieties, Souvenir de Madame Leonie Veinnot, which is one of the earliest to flower, is a charming sight, especially when allowed to ramble wild amongst the hedgerows and over the pergola. Hardy Bulbs. Hardy bulbs are now a profusion of flowers, anemones and ranunculus being amongst the most showy, the best effects being produced when these plants are grown in beds or masses. Tulips are a gorgeous sight. Freesias, too, are exceedingly useful, with their sweet-scented blossoms. The new hybrid species add variety of colour to these popular bulbs.

Woodland Flowers. Double and single primroses, cowslips, polyanthus, violets, wood and grape hyacinths, and other hardy dwarf herbaceous flowering perennials, are laden with the utmost profusion of blossoms. Forget-me-nots must not be omitted. These oldfashioned flowers are sweetly attractive, and cannot well be over-planted. They are so useful for naturalism on banks, and growing in secluded nooks and along near the edges of woodland walks, and are equally at home in the rockery. Wallflowers are sweetly-scented old-fashioned flowers that are often omitted from pre-sent-day gardens. They are invaluable for the rock garden. 4 Flowers for Rock Gardens. For this purpose mesembryanthemums are indispensable. They are exceedingly showy, especially during bright sunny days, when all their blossoms are displayed to the fullest perfection. Cyclamens, nestling in nooks here and there throughout the rock garden, are very quaint, with their bright-coloured blossoms, that are produced well above the foliage. Auriculas, so much in evidence in Europe and the south of this Dominion, are not often seen here, although they will thrive planted in cool borders, or in speciallyarranged pockets; on the cool, shady side of the rockery-. flag Irisis. Old-fashioned flag irisis are no# in full flower. They are extremely useful, as they will thrive anywhere, doing equally well on dry, sunny banks, and in cool shaded positions. They are well adapted for naturalising on grassy banks, and beneath

the shade of overhanging trees, and are indispensable for the rock garden, espeeially for the most elevated and exposed positions. The fleshy rhizomantous roots preserve them against drought. Wild Gardens. In all gardens of any extent portions should be planted to impart as natural appearance as possible. The greatest pleasure and charm is to be derived from what may be termed the wild garden, that is, where so many of the old-fashioned favourites are allowed to grow as naturally as possible. A certain amount of thinning out and regulating to curtail the growth of any that are liable to become too aggressive and overwhelm the dwarfer and slower-growing plants, may be done without detracting from the general effect. Foxgloves, verbascums, ganrds, eupatoriums eschscholtzias, pen.inial asters, nasturtiums, several kinds of chrysanthemums, and many others, are admirably adapted for the informal garden. VEGETABLE GROWING. Throughout the spring and summer months hoeing plays an important part in the successful cultivation of all classes of vegetables. At this season of the year weeds grow very rapidly, and the work of hoeing should in no case be delayed until weeds have practicallv taken possession, or even until far advanced, but should on the other hand be persistently carried on while the weeds are quite small. Benefits of Surface Cultivation. If the whole of the surface of the ground between the crops be lightly stirred with the hoc, not only will the weed; that

are showing plainly be destroyed, but others that are only just pushing through the soil will be similarly treated. Frequently stirring the surface of the ground with the hoe is also one of the best preventives of slugs, as it greatly checks their breeding. Preserving Soil Moisture. . Another important advantage in hoeing is that many soils particularly those of a stiff retentive nature are apt to bind badly in wet weather, this is followed by cracking as soon as dry weather s§ts in. Keeping the surface loosened by hoeing prevents the rapid t loss of moisture by evaporation and the consequent cracking, and also admits the warm moist air to the roots of the plants, a form of food that greatly assists to invigorate growth. Frequent Hoeings. It will thus be seen that the more often the hoeing is repeated the better it will be for the crops. In hoeing young seedling crops, care must naturally be exercised, as any reckless work may destroy many seedlings that may be scarcelyshowing above ground. ■ 'By this time, however, many early sown crops will be sufficiently advanced not to be mistaken for weeds, and between the rows of these the hoe should be frequently used. Hoeing After Rain. After every heavy rain the surface soil is naturally beaten down, and soon forms a hard crust. Hoeing is naturally most effective if performed when the surface is lairly dry, and when the sun is shining brightly. This however, maybe rather too trying for the amateur who could do better work if performed in early mornings or evenings, than during the hottest part of the day. Destructive Birds. At this season birds often play havoc with some varieties of seeds, as "well as crops in the green stage. With seeds that are subject to their attacks a good plan is to coat the seeds before sowing with red lead. This will effectually pievent their being eaten. With varieties that are attacked in the green stage, the best preventive is to stretch two or three lines of black cotton along the rows, keeping the cotton four or five inches above the ground, this is done by placing a few sticks along the rows to support the cotton. Cultivation for Fruit Trees. The season of planting orchard trees being practically over, the next important! operation is to have the soil around all newly planted trees broken up, so {hat the air and warmth can penetrate the soil and assist root action. After heavy rain, no matter what the nature of the soil, the surface naturally becomes caked, and requires loosening up, though the stiffer the soil the more need there is for this attention. This, in fact, applies equally to all trees, whether newly planted or trees that are in a fruit-bearing condition.

Stimulating Fruit Tree 'Growths. Thoroughly breaking up the soil, and the application of some stimulating manure at this season is an important factor in the production of healthy growth and better crops of fruit. As the object m manuring is to return to the soil the material absorbed by the trees, it naturally follows that in proportion to the growth and fruitfulness of the trees, the food must be supplied in order to sustain health and vigor. Applying Manure to Fruit Trees. In the application of the manure it should be distributed so that the trees will derive the greatest benifit from its nse. j Too often a circle is dug immediately around the stem of large fruit-bearing trees, and manure, if applied at all, is confined to this space, instead of being widely distributed to provide food for the more scattered roots. To grow fruit successfully the whole of the ground should be broken up and kept in a clean friable condition. The weather has been most favourable for cleaning and working the land so that the work should now be well under control. The Setting of Fruit. Peaches, nectarines, and many varieties of plums are flowering profusely, the setting of the fruit, however, depends so largely upon the weather conditions during the flowering period that it is impossible to foretell results. The peach and kindred fruits are naturally tender | subjects, and any adverse weather conditions when they are 'in flower, such as late frosts, hail storms or fierce gales, tend . to damage the vital parte of the flowers, thus preventing perfect fertilisation. In some cases too, the crop is lost even after the fruit is set, the result of diseased foliage or what, is commonly known as leaf curl. Spraying for Leaf Curl. Thorough spraying with Bordeaux mixture in winter and again just before the buds burst is the best mean s of checking this disease. But even this will not effectually prevent the disease if unfavourable weather is experienced. The grafting of apples and pears, if not already done, should now be completed without delay. The stocks are now starting into growth, and if the scions when selected when pruning have been kept dormant a quick union should be obtained. Instruction*; have already been given of the simplest and best method of grafting to suit the different size of stocks to be worked.

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. " Unknown," Parangito.Names of seeds are : (a) Canadian Wonder, one of the best and most prolific of kidney beans; (b) Striped Zebra, or Dutch runner bean, ,a popular pole variety; (c) Cow pea, for agricultural uses; (d) a variety of kidney bean the writer is unable to name; (e) Heligoland, or Tick bean.

Eupatoriums would suit your purpose admirably for planting to enliven a sparsely-grassed bank, where varioussized shrubs are growing. They are of aomewhat trailing habit, hold their own Jo the grass, and flower for a long time, making a pleasing display at this season, with their prolusion of white blossoms. Foxgloves, and the dwarfer-growing kinds of nasturtiums might also be introduced. Do not plant the tall climbing kinds, as they take 'possession and become a nuisance. Periwinkles, although exceedingly showy when in flower, are also likely to take possession, and must be avoided.

Mrs. T. 8., Takapuna.— middle of October is a suitable time to plant kumara sets. They do not require rich soil, and succeed best, or are most productive in tubers, where there is a hard bottom about 9in beneath the surface. Allow about 3ft between the rows, and 2ft between the plants in the rows. This gives ample room for cultivating the soil around them. Table maize about the middle of next month is also suitable for sowing. Sow thinly in rows, with a distance of 3ft between each, and thin out to about 9in in the rows. The young seedlings are easily transplanted.

" Cherry," Te Aroha.—Rhododendrons and other shrubs that are employed for planting along the sides of your approach or carriage drive should be arranged not less than 15ft apart. At this distance a bolder effect is produced, especially where larger trees are planted for a background. Smaller-growing shrubs, such as azaleas, might be introduced "alternately between the rhododendrons, and a little nearer the drive. Kf.pos.

It is not generally known that sprouted onions can be profitably utilised. Planted out in rews in the open ground, they soon make root, and top-growth is also verv speedy. Each bulb breaks up into three or four divisions, which, if left to themselves, would flower and seed. But do not leave them long enough for that; the scallions are pulled up and used for flavouring stew and in the making of soups, and for this purpose they will fill up the gap until produce can be obtained from the spring-sown bed.