THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Herald, Volume XLV, Issue 13745, 9 May 1908, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN.

At'TOtx lints arcs conspicuous amongst tin trees and oilier plants that clothe the land scape. The gorgeous leaf tints of some o the species present a greater diversity nnc brilliance of colour than if the plants wen a profusion of bloom. The Virginiai creeper (Ampelopsis hederacea) is one of tin first to turn colour and is most conspicuous ■\mpelopsis Veitchii and mural is are also re niarkable for their autumn leafage. Tin leaves of Lageretra?ma indica assume th< bright en crimson. The foliage of Persim mons is also beginning to colour: they, too are remarkable for their many rich and beau tiful leaf )ints. contrasting with the yellow and red fruits, rendering them most tellinj objects and indispensable for planting 01 the outskirts of ornamental plantations. The; are also valuable for their rich and lusciou fruits, which are in season when other soft fruits' are scarce. The different varieties o rhus or sumachs are particularly beau'tifu and interesting at this season, the colon of the foliage being extremely brilliant Berberis Thunbergiana, a dwarf, bushy-grow-ins barberry. is also a notable object for it autumn leafage. Later, scarlet oaks an< other deciduous varieties keep up a sueoes sion of autumn lints right into the winte months. Fallen leaves litter the garden am grounds and tend to give them an untid; appearance, necessitating frequent raking and gathering up. Do not burn the leave* hut remove them to the rubbish heap, v.her (hey will rot and produce leaf mould, whirl is a, valuable compost for mixing with pot ling soils and for digging into the soil urouix azaleas, rhododendrons, and those othe varieties of plants that flourish where lea moulds e\isr. As the season is getting lute the sowing of grass seeds on lawns am other places should be completed at once. THE GREENHOUSE. The change from warm sunshine to moist cold weather is making itself apparent wit! many «-f 'he more tender varieties of plants The season of growth of some of these i practically at an end. so that great earn wil be necessary to preserve lie plants througli out the winter- One of the most importan things at this season is the careful and jiuli cious* use of water. Any excess of moistur is often fatal to tender plants, particular]; such varieties as usually remain dor man during the winter months. Plants whe: making little or no growth need but litl l water, as there is not sufficient root actioi to absorb the moisture applied. It is im portant that the pots be kept thoroiighl. dean, that the most tender subjects b placed in the driest and warmest parts, an only sufficient water applied to keep th plants from wilting. Bulbous and tuberor plants are fast going to rest. Begonia! achimenas, caladium.-, alocasiu*, and othe summer-growing varieties must be watere M-ry sparingly until the bulbs and tuber ripen, when water should be withheld ail the pots stored away in a dry place. A the dying away of many profuse fluwerin plants*naturally causes a blank in the house every available haidy flowering plant slsonli lie brought into use to assist in keeping 11 a display during the winter months. Hot vardias, primulas, cinerarias, cyclamens, an a host of others that may be considered eon Dion at other seasons are fully appreciate when in flower during the winter months The whole of the house should be thoroiighl • cleaned, and the plants rc-arranged to pro duee the best cffcct.

. ANSWER'S tO COP.HESrOXDESTS. "J.W.K.," Tomonby: It is hurtful to dig : around those varieties; of trees , and ; w>ru'M ■■„■ that, produce a "network of spots near the surface, such a* oranges, lemons, ami others of the citrus family; also purtri, noheria, Veronicas, e«calloni<Wi rhododendrons, azaleas, etc. Instead of digging, lightly hoe no weeds off and mulch with decayed manure, mixed with light foil. The mulch will' draw the moisture and keeps the surface from Incoming baked and hard. Putin* are otteji ruined by deep digging and heavily manuring the ground* around them. "'Novice," Auckland: June is the heft month to insert rote cutting*. Mcponjpiu s insecticide will kill the woolly aphis blight, applied according to direction* on tin. Hie forest of jrouug shoots that has sprung up after cutting back old apple trees must bo greatly reduced by thinning them out. rutting superfluous shoots closely off and heading back those that are left. They will not fruit until the following season. Irish Poach apple bears on the ends of the shoots and twigs. and must be pruned accordingly. After properly shaping he tree but little pruning will be necessary. In pruning peach and nectarine trees see that thr> centre is kept well open, and cut back extra vigorous growths, and thin out some of the side shoots. Do not adopt the system of cutting two-thirds oil" all new wood, as too many fruiting buds would be sacrificed. Hoot pruning greatly checks tlte top growth of the re.■ and promotes voting fibrous roots and the formation of fruit spurs. The operation consists in digging a trench around the tree, varying the distance according to the size of the tree. For instance. in dealing with a tree 6ft high, let tii" circle where the trench is dug bo alw>ut ?.f from .the stem. Cut off all the larger loots that, extend beyond the inner edge of the trench, using a sharp knife or sec-c-atetirs to make clean cuts. "Inquirer:" Much depends upon the condition in which seeds are harvested and how they are kept in determining the length of time they will remain fresh and terminate, i nder ordinary conditions seeds of tor..ins, cabbages, cauliflowers, and other c< ileworts. carrots, mustard, dwarf kidney and runner beans, beets, and watermelons, will grow} after being kept two years. Parsnip?. parsley, lettuces, and cress are unreliable lifter twelve mouths. Onions, leeks, and pears, from one to two years. Rockmelons. marrows, pumpkins, plcmelons, about three years. Broad beans, two to three years. Cucumbers and tomatoes will germinate after keeping from four to five years. "W.R. Prom your description of the vines 1 would advise you to defer pruning for another fortnight. The fact of some of the foliage being quite green is proof that the sap has not yet returned. Before starting to finally prune, remove a lateral from each vine fairly low down. If after this branch has been cut for u few hours no bleeding takes place you can prune with safety. I would certainly advise fumigating the hours before the vines are pruned, particularly if infested, as you say. as most of the bugs will be destroyed that would otherwise tall and secrete themselves in the soil and other parts of the house. Certainly remove a portion of the surface soil and burn it with leaves and other debris that fall from the vines. It is by far the best and cheapest method to cover the whole floor of the house with concrete or tar and sand, making a smooth surface, so that it can be swept clean. Apart from this a, nice moist atmosphere and more even temperature can be maintained, as the floor can be kept lndfst or dry as necessity requires. Kepos.