Thank you for correcting the text in this article. Your corrections improve Papers Past searches for everyone. See the latest corrections.

This article contains searchable text which was automatically generated and may contain errors. Join the community and correct any errors you spot to help us improve Papers Past.

Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

THE GARDEN.

» The cold frosty nights and clear, bright days experienced throughout tho past week have rendered the surface of the ground dryer than it has been for a long time, thus affording a splendid opportunity for carrying on general garden work. Weeds had overgrown the beds, borders, and walks to such an extent as to make them unsightly. The first and chief requirement is to got rid of the weeds, which is sadly needed, nob only for tho benefit of the plants, but to givo tho garden a better and more tidy appearance as well as allowing the ameliorating influences of the atmosphere to act upon tho soil, and in a measure doing away with a harbour foe slugs and other insects. Do not spare time for digging or forking until the whole department has had what is termed a rough go-orer, and cleansed of surface weeds. When this has been done, attention may be given to digging or forking those portions that require treating in this manner, and manuring when necessary. The planting of all hardy trees, shrubs, and smaller things may be proceeded with on all suitable occasions. Tho cold frosty nights have blackened the foliage of several tender plants. Varioties that are not usually injured have Buffered on account of the plants waring so much young, sappy growth, the result of the provious wet, muggy weather. All annuals that are at all tender have succumbed, and may bo done away with, as they are not any more use. Dahlias that only a few days ago were in a growing state have had all their leaves destroyed, and may now be taken out of the ground and stored away. Do not leave them on the surface exposed, as one frost would prove fatal to the tubers, and rondor the stools worthless. The check to growth will have a beneficial j effect) upon most plants, particularly roses, that require a certain season of rest, whereas almost up the present time they have been growing vigorously. As now is tho best time for planting roses, for the benefit of those who are unacquainted with the best and most suitable varieties to plant, the following list will no doubt bo a useful guide and aid in making their selections. Beginning with what are called tho Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid Toas, the following are nil good and reliable sorts, and embrace tho various colours : —Abel Carriers, Alfred Colomb, A. K. Williams, Boule de Niece, Captain Christie, Charles Darwin, Charles Lefebvre, Duke of Edinburgh, Earl of Dufforin, Eclair, Grand Mogul, Her Majesty, John Bright, John Hopper, La France, Lady Mary FitzWilliam, Baroness Rothschild, Madame Goorge Schwartz, Mario Baumann, Mervilla de Lyon, Mons. E. Y. Teas, Mrs. J. Laing, Mrs. Lippiatt, Prince Canaille de Rohan, Otahuhu Hybrid, Queen of Queens, Silver Queen, Victor Vcrdier, Ulrich Brunner, and Princess Beatrice. The Bourbon rose Souvenir de la Malmaison is well known as the best of its class. Amongst Noisette varioties, Cloth of Gold, Lamarque, Marechal Niel, William Allan Richardson, and Celine Forrostior are the best. Tea scented roses: Catherine Merinch, Climbing Devoniensie, Distinction, Francisca Kruger, Gloire de Dijon, Grace Darling, Isabella Sprunb, Madame Berard, Madame Lambard, Mdlle. Cecil Berthod, Marie Van Houtte, Niphotos, Perledes Jardines, Reine Marie Henrietta, Safranofc, Souvenir d'Elise Varden, Sunset, The Bride, Comptesse Riza du Pare should be Included in all good collections. Polyantha or miniature roses are also indispensablo in every garden.

THE VINERY.

The pruning, cleaning, and dressing of vines should now be completed as soon as possible; most of the varieties are now at rest, and in the best and safest condition for pruning. The safest plan to adopt before commencing the general pruning is to cut two or three laterals off each vine that appear ready, and see if any bleeding takes place. This will be Been in a very short time, and will show whether it is safe to proceed with ths pruning or not. "Where a mixture of varieties is grown, it is almost impossible to prune (without injury) the whole of the vines nit. th<> same time, as some sorts lose their foliage and ripen their wood very much earlier than others. In all cases the safest plan is to prune as soon ae possible after the fall of the leaf, as the season of rest is so short. In pruning, shorten back all lateral or side shoots, leaving two of the strongest eyes at the base of each lateral. The cutting back should be done with a sharp knife, so as to leave as clean and smooth a wound as possible. Tha laterals on ft one-year-old

vine require to bo cub back to the main cane, as the buds start from the main cane at the base of each lateral. As soon as ' the pruning is , completed, all. laterals, leaves, arid other litter should be carefully gathered.up and burnb. The mealy-bug, the greatest post the grapogrower has to contend with, has so thoroughly established itself throughout this' province that few vineries are nob troubled with ib to some extent; bub every means musb be used to keep it in check. . To entirely eradicate it is next to impossible, as outdoor climbers, shrubs, and even large trees are to be seen infested with this pest. Bub vinos may be kept comparatively free so that the grapes need nob suffer if stringent measures are taken during tho wintor when the vines are stripped of their foliago, and when strong insecticides may be used without the risk of damaging the vines. After pruning remove all loose bark from the canes. This parts freely from the vines, and should be removed without resorting to the old-fashioned method of scraping with the knife. A good rubbing with a coarso cloth or brush will generally do all thab is requirod, bub care musb bo taken nob to destroy the buds that are left at the bo«<; of the laterals. As soon as the vines are cleaned they should be thoroughly dressed with Gifihurst's compound, Bridgford Antiseptic, or other strong insecticide, boing careful that every part of the vines arc dressed. Every part of the house too must bo thoroughly dressed ; trellises, woodwork, and glass must all be cleansed. The best and most effectual plan is to take down the vines and so arrange them that they can be covered with sacks or other suitable material, and the whole of the house well syringed with a strong kerosene solution. If the vines are covered this cannot bo applied too strong or too warm. Strong kerosene solution applied warm will troy monly-buc, thrip, and almost any other insect. Remove a portion of the surface coil all over the house, and renew with clean fresh material. After the cleaning is completed the vines should be painted over with a fuirly thick paint. The chief object in doing this is to form a (smooth oven surface, leaving no crevices for insects to harbour in. A mixture of clay, soot, a little cow manure, and water is til that is needed. Kkfos.

Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/NZH18930617.2.66.43

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Herald, Volume XXX, Issue 9229, 17 June 1893, Page 4 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,177

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XXX, Issue 9229, 17 June 1893, Page 4 (Supplement)

THE GARDEN. New Zealand Herald, Volume XXX, Issue 9229, 17 June 1893, Page 4 (Supplement)

Help

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert