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LADIES COLUMN., New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7728, 28 August 1886, Supplement
MILLINERY AND NOVBLTIBS. The latest freaks of fashion in connection with millinery are, that for certain occasions the bonnet or hat shall be exactly matched in the fan of the wearer 5 and for other times, that a sachet for the purse and handkerchief, exactly corresponding in material to that of the bonnet, shall bo worn suspended from the waist by ribbons like those forming strings of the bonnet. Ono Bet, named the " Prinoess Poppy Set," is a bonnet and fan. The former, a " Princess" bonnet, is formed of soarlet poppies deftly arranged on a black foundation, with a scarlet osprey rising from the front centra of the crown ; on the lower edge of tho crown a cluster of poppy buds, with their bright green stems, is fastened. A fold of black lace forms a binding to the crown, and is carried to the front and extended for strings. The fan has ribs of blaok, and on black net foundation rows of red poppies are very cleverly arranged. The fan when spread has a very handsome .appearance ; it is edged with blaok lace, to the end of one of the outer ribs a cluster of poppy buds is fastened with a bow of blaok ribbon, and at the point where the ribs are secured is another cluster with long ends of ribbon. For a fete or garden party these flower fans are exceedingly pretty, though from their construction they can scaroely be very durable. "La Rose" is another very dainty set. A shape something between a boat and the " Olivia" bonnet, is covered with pink gauze, and upon this a shower of pink roses forms a covering; ; no foliage; the softly-tinted blossoms are closely placed, and the front centre has an aigrette formed of a pink ostrich feather, a clcud of marabout, and tall osprey rising from the centre ; there are no strings to this bonnet. The fan has ribs of sandal wood, and on the upper portion rows of roses in delicate shades of pink ; the outer border is of marabout feathers, and at each end of the fan when folded, a cluster of pink rosebuds is secured by bows of pink crepe ribbons.
The " Ascot" set consists of a hat of fine straw, very much like the "Cornwallis West" in shape, save that the brim at the back forms a point; the whole brim is lined with blue velvet, and the point at the back turned up and' sewn to the crown ; tho hat is trimmed with navy blue oatin ribbou, and with a cluster of corn flowers aud bunoh of cherries in the front. The fan to match this is one of the Sicilian straw fans, circular in shape ; a long spray is formed of the corn flower, with bunches of cherries, and sown from the haudle to and boyoud the centre. Tho *' Myosotis" set comprises a bonnet and sache, of which the former on a white foundation is covered with white areophane ; over this a deep white lace is pleated, so that from the centre of the crown the folds radiate fan shape; each pleat secured by a fancy pearl pin ; a narrow fold cf black velvet rests on the head in front, and above this a coronet rising in the centre of bluish pink forget-me-not-looking blossoms, in shape like a " Norma" wreath. Very pretty gro«n and red brown leaves are mixed with, or rather placed on each side of the flowers, and in the centre a spray of white osprey rises from a bed of tulle ; the strings are white faille ribbon, with fancy edge—an old fashion revived. The sachel is in shape like half an elongated diamond. On a foundation of white silk, covered with lace to match that on the bonnet, is arranged on the upper surface clusters of myoaotis flowers, ana round the sides of the sachel, green and brown leaves fcrm a broad border; long strings of faille ribbon are attached, by which this dainty looking pocket is suspended. For a wedding or reception party, over a pretty costume, this sachel would have a charming effect. In bonnets, modifications of the "Olivia" divide with the " Princess" the chief favour. In hats, the flowerpot is the starting-point for the majority. Of the former a charming model is in white lisse gauze, very richly embroidered with small pearls freely introduced in the pattern. A cluster of ostrich plumes, with similar pearls attached to each thread, forms the brimming ; the bonnet is bordered with cut jet beads graduated in sizes from that of the ordinary pea to that of a very large cherry plum ; each of these large beads is secured by a chain of small black jet beads. This is an uncommon but very " taking" style, and is in excellent taste. A flowerpot hat with a poke front is covered with white lisse, embroidered in a massive pattern. The front is covered above and below with thick borders of ivy leaves in green and red-brown ; the upper border is veiled in fine lisso lace secured by prettily ornamented pearl pins. A plume of white feathers and osprey gives an elaborate finish to the front.
A fete hat in broad deep-tinted fancy straw flowerpot shape, and a rather broad brim in front, has the latter ornamented with ivv leaves, and the crown on the left side bordered by ivy leaves and corn-coloured lilac blossoms ; a plume of corn-coloured ostrich features and folds of white tulle twined around the crown and to its top, complete the trimming. Another, similar in shape, has the foundation of maize areophaue covered with white lisse gauze heayily embroidered in white floss silk, trimming of maize plumes and bows of satin ribbon.
A bonnet of white liase has the trout and high bows of heliotrope velvet ; the back of the crown is covered with tulle, amongst which white lilao and mignonetto are effectively arrangedIn children's bonnets there is a vory quaint " Wakefield Olivia," a largo crown of Indian silk gauze drawn on wires and rows of lisse gauze edging introduced. There are feathers and plumes, hows and ends, and a quaint lace front, which looks like a great-grand, mother's bonnet specially furbiahed for a ittle maiden — a dainty, quaint fashion whioh would look charming on many a mother's darling. A "Beefeater" hat in cream long-haired corduroy plush has a front of rows of lace, the pleatß held in place by a large flat pearl bead; in the ceutie of the crown a fourlooped bow of fancy cream ribbon is placed ; a novel but very pretty hat for a child of seven or eight. The Dora is a modified Princess bonnet in white aresphane, veiled in white tulle thickly studded with crystal beads ; a coil of pearls borders the front, and the trimming is white feathers placed high and bows of fancy ribbon. The Bernard Beere is a high-crowned straw hat with a wide brim of fancy straw, or rather of straw lace ; this brim is lined with deep brown velvet; bows of brown velvet support long loops; of fancy strawcoloured crape and satin ribbon, the loops connected with ornamental pins; above the loops a cluster of maize or straw-coloured, feathers.
The Isabel is a fawn-coloured straw hat high-crowned, with narrow brim lined with velvet and turned up at each side ; a, closelyfolded fancy gauze is draped about the crown and front," aud a cluster of fawn-coloured feathers is arranged on the right side, giving the appearance of a tall riding hat with a veil .folded about it.
I The Ninon is a hat much resembling a, granny bonnet, with the brim carried to tin; point of the high crown and turned back, leaving a space about two inches wide. The whole brim is lined with black velvet veiled with white tulle, and the space at the back filled in with a spray of dull crimson roses. A large cluster of similar flowers is placed in front. The hat is of fawn straw, and a plume of feathers in two shades is placed high in front.
A very pretty straw bonnet, somewhat "Olivia" in shape, has the front lined with violet velvet, the outer edgtf bordered with' sprays of lilac without foliage, and a cluster of lilac mixed with white tulle and lilac ribbon bows on the top ; the back is bound with violet velvet; long strings of lilac faille. FUIWKBS. The flowers this season ore of very great beauty, and in many cases are used to the exclutiou of feathers. Very often, too, flowers are used as the trimming, with the delicate osprey placed amongst them. For evening wear there are complete garnitures of flowers. One set in blush roses, without foliage, includes a border for the neck and to the point of the bodice; a spray almost a panel for one side of the ttkirt; a cluster for the shoulder, and a smaller cne for the hair. The two last have bunches of grasn tied with them ; the skirt trimming has loops of pink satin ribbon. A sachet for the handkerchief is included in the aet. Another of water lilies, with an abundance of leaves and long grass, is very handsome. But a superb set is of laburnum and cloth of gold ro»ee, with the »tems all covered in ohenille ; there are long blades of shaded grass and leavea of ornamental foliage plants in velvet of very rich colours. This on a gown of black net or lace, or with a white dress, would be exceedingly handsome.
LADIES COLUMN., New Zealand Herald, Volume XXIII, Issue 7728, 28 August 1886, Supplement
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