THE AUSTRIAN TYROL.

Lyttelton Times, Volume CXIV, Issue 16326, 23 August 1913, Page 2

THE AUSTRIAN TYROL.

A TOURIST’S IMPRESSIONS. CAFE LIFE ON THE CONTINENT, MAY DAY AT BUDAPEST. (By A. 0.8.) On April 20, just about three months after leaving London, we—a party of New Zealand tourists—arrived at Zurich. We travelled by way of Paris, Lausanne, Genova, Marseilles, staying a while at Nice, Monte Carlo and Genoa. Wo spent Easter at Florence, where, needless to say, wo enjoyed every minute of our time visiting the picture galleries, and then turned north again back to Switzerland, for tho winter sports, calling at Milan, Lucerne and Zurich. Leaving Zurich, tho train ran along tho shore of the lake for some time, bound for Innsbruck in tho Austrian Tyrol. Tho railway is cut out of tho side of tho mountain, and wo had a glorious view, tho lake before us and the snow-covered mountains behind, with towns flourishing at tho base. The water of the lake was so clear and blue that every detail was reflected, from the green grass and rocky cliffs to the snowy summits. There was nothing to disturb the silent grandeur, for though tho train rushed through, there was no shrieking of whistles as wo wont in and out of the tunnels, and ovon when the train left a station it did so without a final shriek. CROSSING THE BORDER, At Buchs, on the border of Switzerland and Austria, an elaborately uniformed official entered tho carriage to inspect our suit-cases, but seeing nothing to take his fanoy, soon announced that we could pass tho Customs. Here also a honeymoon couple, Who 6poke only in German, entered tho compartment, and caused the same interest as this specic3 of humanity does everywhere else. We then crossed the Rhine, here quite a small river, and travelled on to Feldkirch, a charming little town right down in tho Rhine valley, with grand mountains surrounding it on evory side. A little further ont at Blundonz, we came to tho bottom of tho valley, and then began the climb. On the left towered tho steep Algauer Alps, along whose rocky slopo our course lay, sometimes through tunnels, and then again by steep blasted walls. Tho valley itself Was far bel’ow, with a mountain stream rushing through, and hero and there a cluster of houses and a church, while peasants, women as well as men, were working in tho fields in their quaint Tyrolese costumes. MARVELLOUS RAILWAY CONSTRUCTION.

At Langen we entered a tunnel, the fourth largest in Europe, which pierces tho broad mass of the Alberg mountains, coming out of which we had a beautiful view of tho alpino pasture lands, which extend for miles and miles into charming valleys, while far in the distance we could hear the faint tinkle of herd bells. From hero onwards, the scenery was wild ana rugged. The constructors of tho railway must have had great difficulties to overcome, as there are bridges over fierce mountain torrents, many tunnels, and in one place tho lino is protected against the winter avalanches by sheltering roofs. One -structure in particular is truly wonderful —the Trisanna Viaduct —which spans a valley in one arch of 120 metres (about 360 ft), and more than 160 ft below roars a glacial stream. All tho lower regions of the mountains were covered with gorgeous wild spring flowors, cowslips, violets, anemones and gentians. ' INNSBRUCK AND HALL.

As we wore nearing Innsbruck, we noticed that the peasants were sitting about in groups in the fields having a meal. Everyone must know exactly the border line between his own ground and his neighbour’s, for there aro no dividing fences. As the train rushed past stations and mountain sidings, there was always at least one uniformed person. standing at attention, who saluted the train as we passed on. The people hero seem very fond of uniforms, for all who can appear to wear one; and a very gay ono it is, bright blue and red being the favourito colours. Innsbruck is situated in an ideal position. Wherever one looks, ono sees snowtopped mountains, and the town itself, though very sheltered is not down in a hollow. We visited the picturesque little town of Hall, about forty-five minutes’ journey away from Innsbruck. Hall is. the home of the Tyrolese bay windows, and no house in the town is without this decoration. The town square contains an old church and a town hall, adorned with numerous coats of arms. We wandered tnrough the village, where we saw about a dozen boys, all in national dress, working in a garden. We asked them if we might take their photographs, aB their costumes were so quaint. They thought it a great joke, and formed into a group, amid much laughter, but were rewarded with the promise of receiving a photograph each. Thev told us that they belonged to a school of forestry, and were being taught everything in connection with it. ... r IN MUNICH.

Late the next afternoon we arrived at Munich, and took a taxi —the first since leaving London —to the pension. After a cup of very weak tea (strong tea is unknown there), we went out to inspect Munich. My first impressions were that it was a very fine town, but modern, with beautiful wide streets, handsome buildings and, most important of all, elegantly uniformed policemen everywhere. On our return to the pension the seven o’clock “evening meal” was announced. The first course was of mayonnaise, composed chiefly of beetroot. Then a dish was handed round with a little ham, two varieties of sausage (bratwurst) and another kind of meat.. This looked a. little doubtful and mysterious, I thought. With this we ate rolls and. butter, drank more very weak tea, which was poured cut by a maid who reminds one of the slavey in the “Passing of the Third Floor Back.” After this—and I was still so hungry—up jumped the proprietress, who, by the way, presides, and w© all wished eaeh. other something in German and filed out of the room like youngsters at a boarding-school. It was my first experience of a real German pension. We spent the next morning sight-seeing, and at eleven o’clock wont to the Town Hall, where bell 9 chime and a number of quaintlooking figures dance. Dinner this time was a slight—but a very slight—improvement. A dßrk, evil-looking soup, then hot sausage, peas and carrots handed round twice, and then a sponge-cakey substance. It was awful. Our Sunday, spent in Munich, was most interesting. Wo visited the old Pinakothek, where there are many paintings hy the old mastois, those of Reubens and Rembrandt being most numerous. At midday wo went back to Odeon’s Platz to hear a military concert, but, much to our disappointment, it did not come off. However, very soon a few carriages camo along in great style, attended by outriders and •footmen in gorgeous livery, and in one of these carriages we saw the Prince Regent of Bavaria. There is a King of Bavaria, but he is rather queer, so there must always be a Prince Regent. Aftor dinner we visited the English bcergarten. It was a wonderful sight. Hundreds of people were sitting there, drinking coffee or beer and listening to tho band. Soeing three empty seats at one table, down wo sat, and bad a glass of Munich beer for lOpf. (lid) each—rank extravagance. AT THE AUSTRIAN CAPITAL. That evening wo loft for Vienna, and at two o’clock next morning we were wakened by tho everlasting wearer of a gaudy uniform desirous of inspecting

our luggage. Wo again " doused tho glim,” and slept off and on (mostly off) till six o’clock, when at last wo readied tho city of my dreams, Wien. Wo spent tho morning gazing in gorgeous shop windows, and finally came to a lovely garden, one mass of lilac and chestnut all out in bloom, and oh, tho scent and the colours 1 Further on was another garden, in which a beautiful ipuntain was playing surrounded by huge beds of hyacinths and tulips. An American doctor staying in the house with us knew tho city well, and he showed us tho chief buildings, and tlio Prater, which is tho Hyde Park of Vienna. Tho town is not directly situated on tho Danube, but on tho canal, made about fifty years ago, which drains Vienna, thus removing for ever the danger of its being flooded. This is the most beautiful city I have soon. Spring was well advanced, and tho gardens with which the city abounds were a magnificent sight. Tho architecture is marvellous, especially so as most of tho buildings havo been built during the present Emperor’s reign. Besides those thero_ aro handsome statues in every conspicuous place, erected to all the groat musicians Mozart, Brahms, Wagnor, Handel and many others. THE OAFE LIFE. Every street, no matter how small, contains at loast one cafe, and nearly always three or four. From early morning till late at night these oafos are crowded with mGn and women, who sit and drink coffee or beer, read the papers and smoke. Of course there are cafes and cafes. Some of "he gowns of the women at tho best aro all ono dreams that Viennese gowns should bo. They are absolutely indescribable. Tho Viennese all live in fiats of ono room or more, and they go to tho cafes to spend their days. They meet their friends there, write letters, and some women even do fancy work. They go from ono cafe to another till the last ono closes, and then they are obliged to go homo. ATTRACTIONS IN VIENNA. One afternoon we went over the Burg Theatre, which belongs to tho Kaiser. The staircases are glorious, and we were taken into tho Royal boxes and eat in the seats of tho Crown Princo and Princess. Tho foyer is too magnificent for words, and there is probably no other theatre in tho world fitted up with such lavish splendour. We were even shown over the dressing-rooms and on tho stago, so I have truly been “on tho stage ’ in Vienna. Wo' also wont underneath tho stage and saw the marvellous apparatus by wmch, when ono scone is finished, the whole floor is lot down , and the next, scene, already prepared, is moved forward in its place. I had my first glimpse of the Danube by taking a funicular railway up a hill, from which we had a glorious view, and there, too, we visited Lord Rothschild’s gardens. Thcso gardens are open to the public about four times in the year, and wo were fortunate in being present on ono of these days. They wore just gorgeous. I shall nover forgot the endless glasshouses full of ripe cherries, poaches, strawberries and grapes, and further on those containing the choicest flowers —roses, hydrangeas, lental lilies and orchids in dozens of varieties. We had to hurry away to go to the opera “ Dalibor,” as in Vienna they always begin very early, at 7 or 7.30. HOLIDAY TIME IN BUDAPEST. On May 1. being May morning, we were naturally up early, and as tho Viennese enjoy a holiday oil May Day we set off, under the guidance of our American friend, to Budapest for two days. I could not realise that I was in Hungary until I heard the Hungarians speak. Just before reaching Budapest wo passed tho zoo, one of the finest in the world, for there the animals and birds are not housed, as in an ordinary zoo, but are kept in ' surroundings resembling their native environments. Enormous piles of rocks havo boon erected, and in the caverns underneath lions, tigers and bears may bo seen. On the slopes are llamas, and still higher on tho summits eagles and chnmois. Even tho camels have their homes on oases, and the seals are seen on imitation icebergs. We arrived on the west side of Budapest, so we had a splendid viow of hilly Buda across the river. Tho most outstanding features of Buda are the Royal castle on tho summit of a hill, and further on the Fisher Bastion, and still more in tho background a magnificent old Gothic church. Having crossed tho river, wo could view Pest, which is quite flat.. At our feet were massive bridges, directly opposite the Houses of Parliament, and beyond were fine buildings against which loomed up tall chimneys, showing what a great commercial town it is. A TRIP DOWN THE RIVER..

The event of the day was a trip down the river to Margaret Island, and on landing .there we wore all enchanted. The island, about two and a half kilometres long (barely two English miles), is a beautiful, well-kept park, just like some fairy garden floating on the Danube. Beneath the trees were openair cafes, where gaily dressed people chatted, laughed and drank coffee. Close bv, a delightful band was playing the “Barcarolle” from tho “Tales of Hoffmann” and the “Intermezzo.” The people lovo this cafe life, and no wonder, as it is so fascinating and entirely unconventional in comparison with the formality of English life. Wo walked to the head of the island, where we watched, bubbling right up through t-h© mighty river, a boiling spring, the water of which is bottled, and is delicious to drink. On our return to the bridge, tho sight that met our eyes was simply bewitching' for as far as one' could see were lights upon lights—the hills of Buda and tlio sp_ires of Pest studded with twinkling lamps, with the river below reflecting the innumerable rows of lights of both banks. LIGHT-HEARTED HUNGARIANS. Back again in Pest another paradise greeted us, for we found ourselves in the English gardens. There were bands, happy people, and, of course, cafes. In one of these a true Hungarian band was playing, and we noticed that it used a particular instrument which, distinguishes the band from all others. This £5, I believe, called a cymballum, and is like a grand piano without the keyboard, which is not needed, as the player strikes the strings with littlo padded hammers. Tho effect was delightful and most remarkablo, and in conjunction with the violins the music surpassed that of any band I have heard. Although it was midnight tho place was just as gay as at ten o’clock, so wo left the crowd to its enjoyment. I think Budapest tho finest city I have seen, and I certainly spent one of tho happiest days of my life there. The cafe life with its enchanting _ music is tho most fascinating and irresistible thing to < be imagined; tbe whole atmosphere just drives one on to enjoyment. To our surprise, lunch at the hotel was served outside, at a tablo on the side of the footwalk. It was most unconventional, but what’s tho uso of being in Hungary if ono can’t do as tho Hungarians do? Never in my school days, when I used to say, “ Budapest on the Danube is tho capital of Hungary,” dm I imagine what it was like,* or dream I would ever visit it. If the country had been in a more settled state wo would probably have taken a trip down the Danube as far as the Iron Gates. Wo had only ono more glorious day in Vienna, which wo thoroughly enjoyed, visiting statues, pictures and the wonderful Crown jewels, for wo wanted to bo in Berlin in timo for the wedding of the Kaiser’s daughter, so at nanpast eight that evening we took tno train for Dresden.

Donkeys dislike drinking from 0T crossing running water.