A NARRATIVE OF THE JOURNEY TO THE WEST COAST, CONDUCTED BY THE LATE MR. WHITCOMBE.

Lyttelton Times, Volume XX, Issue 1113, 11 July 1863, Page 9

A NARRATIVE OF THE JOURNEY TO THE WEST COAST, CONDUCTED BY THE LATE MR. WHITCOMBE.

/TromlaltMl from (ho Gorman Manuscript of tlie Survivor, ' ' Jacob Lovpeh.)

"\Ve left Christchurch on the 13th April, well provided with provisions, and all things, for the expedition. The party consisted of three men, with a horse and cart, in which we put 200 lbs. of biscuits, tea.' arid sugar, and a quarter of mutton. j\f r . AVhitcombe, having still some business to attend to, remained behind. He gave us particular directions, and explained which \vav we were to go, with orders to wait for jjjn'i at Atkins' station, on the Eakaia. He gave us besides an open letter, to ensure our getting all things necessary for our comfort, and saying that he would follow us shortly, and arrange matters. Thus provided, we commenced our journey in good spirits, and with splendid weather. We reached Griggs' public-house the same evening, where we slept, and on the following day, the 14th, went 25 miles further, to an old shepherd's hat. at a place called Wool-shed hill. Here liained for the night, and the next day, tli, we reached Atkins' station. We ted our letter, and were immediately to a place where we could sleep, ; our meals with the men on the station, lited all next day according to director Mr. Whitcombe, who arrived ally about three o'clock in the afterm horseback. He made some enquincerning our journey and our welfare, ed well pleased and in good spirits; mined that evening in company with nager of the station. The following ig we prepared to proceed, and as the y began now to get very rough, Mr. 3inbe determined to leave the cart at the station, together with some of cuits. As the horse could not carry ling in one load, one man would thereve toreturn and bring on the remainder. )k some fresh meat from the station, hitcombe took his own swag in front of the saddle; each of the men carried l swag. The other horse carried about i., consisting of biscuits, tea, and sugar, latchets, ropes, rat-traps, and many trifles which Mr. Whitcombe con- . necessary for the journey. We conour way, at a little distance back from ;r, wherever the best travelling ground be found; passed near Lake Heron, ■ived towards evening at a branch of ikaia, which, coming from the west, here with the main stream. Mr. >mbe crossed first on horseback. It owever, too deep for us to cross on le therefore rode down the bank on Dosite side to find a better ford, while ; up to a spot where I thought we ross. I called out to say I had found , and that we would immediately cross He was very cautious, and would not us to enter the water until he had ined the depth with his horse. We LI crossed safely, and slept in a come hut alongside a woolshed. The folday, the 18th, we reached a station in nine or ten miles, where we passed jht. On the 19th we crossed the having supplied ourselves with fresh We found a most comfortable spot nping in the bush, where we put up it; it rained a little. We had made tie progress this day. Mr. Whitcombe as it is Sunday, and raining, and a comfortable spot, we will pass the here, and make a long stage tov." We accordingly did so, and the ng day continued our course up the We had no trouble, as we were able ) in the river-bed, and cross at almost ot from side to side; but it got very billing now and then, with a very winlfl. We found a spot suitable for g, }lut as it was still early, about three w<4 determined to go a few miles ; living walked on about a mile, the aryame so strong, that it was only with neatest exertion we could advance b it. We repented now that we did main at the first place, so we deterat once to return to it, and camp :or the night. The wind fell on the ng morning, and a splendid sunrise >romise of a fine day. High mounrise up on both sides of the valley, heir tops covered with snow; further Is the south we could see glaciers, with ual snow, and it was in this direction we must seek for a Pass leading to the West Coast across the moun- j I was sent on in advance to find a camping ground. I walked fast, my ats recurring back to my native land, mountains and glaciers reminded me young days, when oftentimes, lightd and free from care, I had wandered in just such places. How things are ed since then! I found at last a conit spot, with wood, water, and feed for orses —it was the last place available mping in this valley. About two-and-miles further to the south a large p blocks up the now narrow valley. snow-covered mountains and „ blue rs rose to a towering height on all sides, o proceed further in this direction it uite evident would be attended with the jst difficulty. On the west side of my ng-ground I observed a deep fissure in lountiain range, from which, out of a valley, a large stream came rushing down jr I thought perhaps this might be the Ibs Mr. Whitcombe was searching for. e remainder of the party had now reached . We unpacked the horses, and they re soon enjoying the young tender grass yer before trodden by a four-footed beast, e put up the tent, and a good supper was >n prepared in our snug quarters. After )per I happened to be alone with Mr. hitcombe, the other two men having gone look after the horses. Suddenly he asked s if I was not afraid to accompany him >ne to the West Coast; he was determined, said, to go quite through, and to return to J Teramakau. I said I was not the least 'aid, but I could not exactly see how I

could cany all the necessary things. He said we would not require to carry much for fourteen days; that he would carry his oppossum rug and a dozen biscuits, while I could take the remainder. He then asked me how many biscuits I thought we should require each day. I answered, " I could do .with two a day," in which he agreed with me. I then asked him, why he would not take a third man ? He said, " You see that they are new chums, and instead of being of any service, would give us a great deal of trouble; it is therefore better that we should go alone. It cannot be much more than fifty miles to the coast, and the road must be very rough indeed if we cannot make five or six miles a day. This would take, therefore, ten days at the outside, from there to the Teramakau it will take at most two days more, and then one day to the Grey; or we can get a canoe from Captain Dixon with provisions, ascend the Teramakau as far as possible, and from thence across the saddle easily in four or five days. If Captain Dixon should have left that part, we can find out the Brothers Sherrin, who will supply us with sufficient provisions to take us back; or we may find out the diggers that Captain Dixon had brought there. Should all those fail, we will proceed to the Grey, and there get sufficient from the Maoris to take us on to Howitt's, at Lake Brunner, well knowing that he, being a particular friend, will supply us with all things necessary. It is only necessary to take sufficient to bring us to the coast; the rest must provide for itself." It was then arranged what else we would take with us, viz., a hatchet, a billy for tea, no tent (as it was too heavy), a long thin rope, panikins, and some tea; he would not take any sugar, that also was too heavy. When I represented that a small quantity of sugar was very desirable, he said I might do as I liked about it; that I might take as much as I chose to carry ; I therefore took about 8 lbs. with me, besides the rat-traps, tobacco, matches, salt, his instrument, and a quarter of cooked mutton, which Ave had brought with us; and the principal thing, the biscuits, Ave counted out four a day for fourteen days. The two others had now returned ; he told them his intentions, that we | two would go on, while they were to return j the following day to Christchurch, get the horses shod, and then proceed to the foot of the Teramakau saddle, to a hut, which I told them where to find, with the horses and provisions, and there to Avait for us. We chatted a long time that evening, the weather being beautiful, speaking of our intended journey. He again said he did not think it would take us more than fourteen days to reach the Teramakau saddle, and he expressed a hope that the weather would remain fine; but that if it broke, we had no alternative but to keep on, rain or no rain, since the provisions were limited for a certain number of days. I drew his attention'to the valley at the west side of the mountain range, and asked if that Avas perhaps the Pass he expected to find. He said he did not know ; that he had already observed this valley, and that it seemed easy to cross ; but the next day he would follow to the very head of the river, as another side valley could be seen leading in the same direction, but being about three miles distant, we could not see whether it was crossable or not. On the following morning, the 22nd, Ave prepared for our journey. Mr. Whitcombe counted out the biscuits for fourteen days, putting twelve in his own swag; I took the remainder with all the rest of the things. We had killed the evening previous three birds like thrushes, which, being very good eating, Ave took with us; we also caught a wood-hen. It was determined to take one man with us for a few miles, to help to carry the things, the other to remain with the horses. After walking about three miles, Ave reached the foot of the glacier from which the Rakaia takes its source; the blue water rushes out with violence from a vaulted cave under the ice. We saw at once that we had come up too far, as this side valley ended near at hand in an abrupt Avail of ice. We laid down our packs, and, the day being fine, ascended the first low glacier that blocked up the valley; it Avas about 400 or 500 feet high, nearly level, so we could easily climb to the top. From here we had a magnificent prospect of other glaciers, rising on all sides to a great height. After Ave had satisfied our curiosity, we descended, took up our packs, and went back the way we had come. We intended now to try the Pass in the valley, which I had observed the evening of our arrival. Mr. Whitcombe thought that this this might possibly be the spot he was to examine whether it were possible to'make a track across. We walked very fast, as we had already lost a part of the day, and we had hopes of crossing the saddle this fine day. A large rapid stream runs down the narrow valley; no scrub is to be seen, nor any more glaciers. The mountains rise to a great height on both sides, Avith snow-covered summits, but without any ice. t About eleven a.m., before we had time to think about it, heavy clouds came up along the sides of the mountains, and almost at the same instant it began to rain hard. We thought it Avas only a passing storm, but it kept on increasing ; presently large flakes of snow began to fall, and in a short time everything was covered. We reached the highest point of the saddle; it consists of disjointed blocks of rock, and for a feAV hundred yards is nearly level. We sat down to rest. Mr. Whitcombe took an observation with his instrument, and told me we were about 4000 feet above the level of the sea. It was about one p.m.; the snow continued to fall very fast, and made it very cold. Mr. Whitcombe said to me it was better to send the other man back noAV, otherwise the snow would be too deep for him to return. I therefore took the whole load, and eight biscuits more. We then separated—Mr. Whitcombe and I going to the Avest; the other man returning to the camp we had left in the morning, which he could still reach before nightfall. To thiß point, though at a great expense, a track might be cut; at least, it is not impossible to do so, but now begins a descent, npt steep, but very much broken everywhere. 1 The valley gets narrower and narrower;

water rushes forth from under all the rocks, and in a short time a large stream is formed, running in a north-Avest direction. From both sides of the valley small streams fall down nearly perpendicular; the brook soon becomes a river; and the same evening we had to look, occasionally for a long distance, to find a crossing-place. We followed down the stream as quickly as possible, anxious to reach a bush Avhere Ave could get firewood. But it got dark before we could find any, so Ave had no choice but to sit down on a roclc,j and so pass the night. We could not sleep at all the Avhole night. We Avere, however, cheerful, and considered Ave had passed the Avorst part of the road. We had come about fifteen miles that day. It snowed without ceasing the whole night. Several times during the night Ave had to shake the snow off our blankets, Avhenever it got too heavy. The night seemed very long, and we could not lie doAvn, as the ground Avas too wet. It Avas, however, only the commencement of our sufferings. We had at least good food, for although the biscuits had got saturated from the rain and snoAv, they tasted sweet; besides, we had some meat remaining. That night we met with a loss. I placed the four birds and the Avood-hen, which I had brought with me, by my side on the same stone as Ave Avere sitting on, never thinking that rats or mice could exist in such a desolate place, but in the morning Ave Avere horrified to see that the rats had found them out, and had left very little except the feathers. Next morning Mr. Whitcombe, by an observation Avith his instrument, assured me that we Avere about 1200 feet loAver than the Pass. It still snowed; everything was covered Avith it; but among the rocks, continually increasing in size and number in the river-bed, a heavy spray was formed, Avashing the snow away. The river now becomes a succession of Avaterfalls; it falls from, rock to rock into a basin; then over more rocks, and so on. The sides of the river bed rise nearly perpendicular for several thousand feet, quite impossible to ascend, although some few shrubs begin to cling to it now in spots. We scrambled on the whole day, and made about three miles. It now ceased to snow, and the spray from the rocks made us very wet. In the evening I endeavored to make a fire, and succeeded, after much trouble. Then I carried together as much wood as would keep the lire burning all night, and we made some tea. Our sugar had got quite liquid and had saturated my blankets and clothes, but Ave only laughed at our loss; we could live Avell Avithout sugar. We were seriously alarmed, lioavever, about the biscuits; they had become one mass of wet dough, and we could easily see that in this form they would not keep long. I kept up a good fire the whole night, Mr. Whitcombe laid down, and I could hear that he slept. I could not sleep much, having to pay so much attention to the fire. Next morning the snoAv ceased, the sun shone out, and was followed by a fine day; still Ave could not dry ourselves, the spray from the river kept us as wet as possible ; Ave had a splendid sight—the sun shining on the spray tinted everything with the colors of the rainbow. We travelled for some hours among these changing colors, Avhen we came to a place where an extensive earthslip had become fixed; here we Avere able to ascend a few hundred feet, high enough to be out of the reach of the spray, where we ffl determined to rest ourselves for a while. We soon reached a dry spot, opened our swags, and laid everything in the sun, and then lay down ourselves. We could not see any blow-flies about, of Avhich there are so many in all parts of the country. I soon fell asleep ; I think Mr. Whitcombe did the same, but he awoke first, looked at his watch, and said Ave had been resting for an hour and a-half, that Ave must pack up and get on our way. I quickly set to work to tie up my swag, but the blow-flies had found us out, and had covered everything Avith their eggs, his opossum rug Avas the worst; we cleaned everything as well as Ave could, packed them up, and descended once more among the spray. The rainboAV colors had A r anished, together with the sunshine ; thick clouds rose up, and the same evening it rained again, and continued so all night, still I was able to make a fire, and we consoled ourselves with the hope that we had passed the worst of the road, and that it would soon improve; we had not come far that day — about four miles. The next morning Ave got off at daybreak, but our road, instead of improving, got Avorse; the river had increased in volume, and we could only occasionally find a spot where we could ford it ; the sides, nearly perpendicular, Avere overgrown Avith dense scrub, the rocks getting larger and larger, the rain also continued incessant. About mid-day Ave reached some rocks in the river bed, of an enormous size, all wet and slippery; Ave scrambled on from one to another, often over dangerous places, and soon arrived at a place Avhere I looked down straight into a deep whirlpool, and which it seemed impossible to cross. I said nothing, but took off my swag; Mr. Whitcombe soon came up, and, looking at it, said, "Now, Jacob, Ave are caught in earnest, and it is impossible to go on, the sides are perpendicular, and to return is even more impossible, since a great depth of snoAv must have fallen on the Pass lately." He asked me what I thought Avas the best thing to be done; considering the matter, I saw the point of a rock projecting over the surface of the water.; I could let myself down on this with the rope, and then ascertain the depth ot the water, whether it was possible to get through it. I told him my intention, with Avhich he was well pleased. I fastened the rope to a small rock, Avhich I lowered into the water on the opposite side, then threw the other end on to the projecting point, and loAvered myself carefully down Avith my hands. The water boiled, and hissed, and foamed like a witch's cauldron. I let myself doAvn to the mouth, but could feel no bottom. I drew myself back on to the rock, and considered a moment Avhat was to be done. I perceived a small hollow in the side of the rock, about a foot above the Avater. I could just place half the length oi my finger in it, but I thought with the help

of this to be able to cross. I directed Mr. Whitcombe to push the rope over on top towards the side-wall, then, holding myself up to the neck in water, reached the side, and the little notch in the Avail, let go the rope, and held fast to the notch. I had no trouble to cross over; being deep in the water, it supported me, so that I could hold myself up Avith one finger. Thus I got on to the next rock Avith ease, from whence I could get into the bush. I then called out to Mr. Whitcomlje to throw me over the hatchet, but he could not hear me, from the roaring of the Avatar, so I made signs to him that I Avanted to chop. He understood me at once, and thrqw over the required article. I went thei to the bank of the river where the scrub grew highest, and cut down three of theilongest poles I could find, carried them, dovyn to the basin, over Avhich Mr. Whit-' combe must now cross, laid tAvo of them across on to the point of rock I had formerly lowered myself on too. I could now cross on foot. I took the third and longest pole with me, and placed it upright by the side wall, but it Avas too short, and I could not find a longer one. I asked him to draw up the line, fasten the swags to it, and then lower it doAvn. He did so, and I brought over e\'erything in safety. Then returning, I cried out to him to lower himself to the point of the pole, to open his pocket knife and take it in his mouth, All went Avell: he reached the point of the pole, Avhich I held fast. I now told him that he could easily steady himself an instant Avith one hand and cut the rope in two with the other. He did so: I drew it up; he pushed himself now off for good,then across, and we lost only a few yards of rope. It had got nearly dark, so it Avas necessary to prepare to pass the night. It rained without ceasing ; Ave had not one dry thread on our bodies. I tried my best to light a fire for a long time Avithout success, but succeeded at last, and kept up a good fire all night. We made some tea and ate a little of our dough, placing the remainder near the lire to dry. Mr. Whitcombe told me he felt very Aveak and tired— that he had no idea the road Avould be so fearfully rough: He observed Avith his instrument, and told me Ave were about 2000 feet belowthe saddle We chatted for a long time. He spoke of India and the Avar, and then lay down to sleep. I attended carefully to the fire, which threatened continually to go out, the wood being very Avet and bad. I slept but little, and the night appeared very long. At daybreak we got ready again, but our breakfast did not taste Avell, although we Avere very hungry; the dough had become sour through the heat of the fire, and Ave Avere constrained to eat only half our usual rations, as Ave could see it would take us longer than we anticipated to reach the coast. We tied up our bundles, but his oppossum rug, from the long continued rain and the blowflies, had become useless. On perceiving this, Mr. Whitcombe said to me, " I shall leave it behind, it is disgusting; besides, I cannot carry it any further, it makes me too tired. You have a good blanket; it is large enough, and we can sleep together; if you feel yourself able to carry it, I shall pay you extra for it." I assented, rolled up everything, and took the entire load myself. It rained continually, but not heavily. We scrambled on from rock to rock with much labour, and about ten o'clock Ave came to a place which entirely stopped our progress. The river fell straight down over a high rock, spreading out broad and deep at the bottom. Here Avas an insurmountable obstacle. Mr. Whitcombe appeared- a little dismayed, and said to me, " Now, Jacob, I really cannot see what is to be done —to pass across here is quite impossible." I told him Ave had no choice but to ascend the north bank of the river. He said, " That is impossible ; it is perpendicular." " But," said I, " the Avhole face is covered with scrub, Avhich Ave can hold on to, and thus manage to get along." So saying, I commenced the ascent, and he folloAved me. We scrambled on the whole day, going to a great height across a very dangerous point, and then down the opposite side: the sweat and rain ran down my face. When we got doAvn again to the river bed night had come on; it had taken us the whole day, Avith the hardest Avork, to advance about 200 yards. We could not make a fire; we ate a little of the dough, which was getting Avorse and Avorse, and the last morsel of meat Ave had with us. We slept close together, to keep ourselves warm ; I did not feel the cold much, while he trembled the Avhole night. In the morning I made a fire and some tea for breakfast; Ave reduced our allowance still more, taking only about half the usual quantity. The rain Avas ceaseless; everything was thoroughly soaked; we proceeded as quickly as possible still over rocks ; sometimes Ave found cavities betAveen them through which Ave could creep. It was now quite impossible to cross the river; the southern bank becomes one long perpendicular Avail, the northern side presents the only possible travelling ground. The river continues in nearly the same direction Avith a feAV slight turns, towards N.W. After travelling about three miles we came to a turbulent stream coming in from the north. I. tried to cross, but could not, it was too deep and rapid. I then tried another spot, with the same result. We were now obliged to ascend the river to find a better ford; after going about tAvo miles through very dense bush Ave found a better looking spot, just above a waterfall, it was just as much as we could manage; Ave then followed down on the opposite side to the main river, and followed its coui'se still over rocks; the mountains became somewhat lower, and the north bank no longer so very steep, the bush changing to forest, of the usual description, the rain fell incessantly, but it Avas not very cold. We found a level spot, with some dry wood, where Ave decided to spend the night, it was then evening—Ave Avere both very tired; our supper was soon ready, consisting of tea, and a little dough Avhich had become fearfully sour and mouldy. The rain having ceased a little, we made a large: fire, lay down as close to it as possible, and iilept pretty well. It rained again next mornjing. We started about daybreak, and in about a mile reached a level spot, apparently abouf, three miles long, by two miles wide;

the whole surface was covered with an exceedingly dense growth of scrub; high bush grew round the edge of this—we determined to proceed through this latter. We left the river, and in about a mile reached this forest; it was, however, equally dense with undergrowth ; from the excessive rain it was one large lagoon ; we walked on all day above the knees in water, in the direction of the river, which we reached in the evening. We passed the night under an overhanging rock, which protected us from the wind and rain, made a good fire, and slept pretty well; we set our rat-trap every night, but without success; j we could hear no wood-hens, or anything else that we could catch. The day following it ceased to rain; M r. Whitcombe again observed with his instrument, and said we could not ..be above 1000 feet above the sea. We were able tKis morning to follow the bed of the river, but always on top of enormous rocks ; about twelve o'clock we reached a spot where the river is closed in by tAvo perpendicular walls, not more than five or six yards asunder, the water running through with indescribable velocity. Here, also, ends the roughest of the road. With some difficulty we crossed over this rocky barrier, having to make a circuit of over two miles before we could descend on the other side. Having reached the river-bed again we found the road much improved; we could now follow along the shingle beds. We soon arrived at another river which was impossible to cross, also coming in from the north side; we followed it up for some miles to where it divides ; we were able to cross the first, but not the second branch, this we ascended still higher to where it again divides, and here we crossed over. The same .evening we returned to the main river, and as it ceased to rain we kept on a good way to a small rivulet, where we passed the night. Next morning I made some tea, while Mr. Whitcombe examined the road we had to go ; by chance, looking towards the bank of the stream, I observed some splendid looking washing stuff—fine gravel, mixed with quartz and ironstone. I took the lid of the billy and washed about two handsful, and found some fine specks of gold—what diggers call " the color." I washed some more, and laid the result on a green leaf; When Mr. Whitcombe returned he asked me what I was doing; I showed him the gold; we no longer thought about our breakfast—he knocked down the stuff with the iron point of his compass-stick, and I went on washing as fast as I could I think I got somewhere about two grains of fine gold; then Mr. Whitcombe cried out, " That is enough, Jacob, we shall claim the reward, we cannot spend any more time here." He then asked me if it would pay to work; I answered perhaps it would, with a ground sluice, not in any other way, but we had not found the bottom, which is always the best. He scraped up the gold carefully on a bit of paper, which he tied up in a corner of his handkerchief. He spoke of it the whole day, and had great hopes concerning it. The same day he found a slate, of a silver greyish color, of which he brought away some specimens with him ; he said that was the proper sort of slate. I found a piece of greenstone as big as my two fingers, very pretty, and transparent. We were obliged again to take to the bush and swamps; it rained hard, and was very cold; we camped in the bush, with a verypoorfire, and spent a very cold night. day we could hear the noise of the sea; we came to a deep river also coming in from the north, with thick, black water, almost motionless, but verf deep; I cut a long pole to try the depth, but not reach the bottom —it was over twenty feet deep. I wanted to follow the a ford, but he wouldnot, he said he could easily swim across, then'. I could fasten the packs to the rope for him< to drag over, he would then throw the end of the line back to me, which I could take in my mouth, and thus swim across easily. He began immediately to undress, while I walked along the ' bank, and perceived a small tree lying about four feet under water, right across. I' came back quickly, and told him what I had found, and that I would prefer trying to cross on the tree than to swim. I took the swag on my back and went very carefully over on the log; I got over safe; he followed-me at once, with equal success. N.ow, in goring through the forest we heard (the sea distinctly; about mid-day we thought we saw the' shore, but it was only a line of small scrub; we had made a mistake; we camped again in the bush. The next day we had to cross a low hill. I slid down about ten feet into the bed of the river, when the bag in which I carried the biscuits caught in a branch, which tore it -in two, losing some of our remaining dough such a misfortune had happened once before. We reached a' very swampy place and had to make a circuit of many miles through dense scrub, which scratched and tore our hands and faces; weary to death, we lay down and were half frozen with the cold all night. I had not the energy to make a; fire. The next day we met the same difficulties, going through briars and deep swamps trying to reach the sea, but in vain; and night overtook us. We could, however, now see the sea-shore distinctly; it could not be more than five or six miles from us. Mr. Whitcombe found to-day a very beautiful stone, of a greyish colour, nearly transparent, with red veins; he brought it with him ; it was not quartz, but looked more like marble. We had to camp again in the bush—the rain was ceaseless. There was nothing we could catch to eat; all that remained was about a handful of dough, which would have been uneatable if we had had anything else. Mr. Whitcombe said we had better finish it. There was not half enough for one man, and we had hopes to find a Maori on the beach who had supplied Drake and me with eels and potatoes; we could not sleep—we were so cold. The next morning we continued on through the densest bush without any breakfast ; it took us the whole day to reach the sea-shore, which we did about four o'clock, the weather clearing up a bit. I recognised the place, having been there once before; it Avas the Eiver Hukatika which Ave had come down; we Avere very hungry, but in good spirits; our sufferings ought noAV soon

to cease. "We made a large fire and dried ourselves ; we also dried the blankets for the first time in thirteen days—the time it took us to reach the sea after leaving the R-a-kaia. We had been soaking wet all that time. During the whole journey we had not caught a single thing, but we had not lost any time in trying. I had formerly learned from the Maoris how to make a sharp noise with a grass leaf, resembling the cry of a wood-hen, and while with Mr. Drake had enticed and caught many by this means, but here no wood-hens were to be seen or heard; we saw many tracks of dogs in the sand. I asked the Maoris afterwards what tracks these were; they said they were those of wild dogs, which had caught all the woodhens in the neighbourhood. We got everything dry about midnight, and, as we were annoyed by a very strong wind, we went to an old Maori hut we found there, and slept in it. Next day we followed the beach to the Brunner Kiver, about six miles off. How different it was, walking on a firm sandy beach, in the warm sunshine. We soon arrived at the river. I knew we could not cross till the tide was at the lowest, which would not occur till nightfall. We came to a Maori pah, but our hopes were disappointed—the hut of the friendly Maori was burnt down, and he had gone away. There was one other hut standing, in which were a number of odds and ends, tools, &c. We searched carefully for something to eat, but in vain—the Maoris had not left a morsel. I then took an old spade, and went to the potato garden, searched the whole plot, digging everywhere, but found only a handful of very small potatoes, and another handful of Maori cabbage. I had spent nearly two hours in this manner. Mr. Whitcombe had lain down in the sun, and fell asleep ; when he woke up, I showed him the result. He said it was not much, but better than none. I made a fire on the spot where the old hut had been burnt down, and where the most wood Avas to be found, and cooked the potatoes and cabbage. While they were boiling, I sat down by his side. He began to speak, looked in my face, and said, " You have lost a good deal of flesh, Jacob; how do I look ? I feel very weak and hungry." I looked at him, but did not tell him the truth, saying he did not look so very bad; but, in reality, he could not be recognized— his eyes were sunk deep in his head, his lips were white, and his face as yellow as a wax figure; you could, so to speak, almost see his teeth through his cheeks. He said he would soon improve. We ate the potatoes and cabbage, the last little meal we ever took together. I told him afterwards that I knew a spot where, at dead low water, we could get as many muscles as we liked, but it was impossible to reach them before night. I proposed we should remain here to gather shell-fish at night, but Mr. Whitcombe opposed it; he wished to try and cross the river at once, and the same evening go on to the Teramakau, which was nine miles off. The rain commcnced again; Mr. Whitcombe" was very restless, so we gathered our things together, and tried to cross; but, as I told him, it was much too early ; the backwater had not yet run out, and was everywhere over six feet deep. We sat down in the drenching rain, and waited about an hour, when he asked me to try again, but still no use. I tried in- two different places in vain. This aoaioyed him very mnch, and he said to me, " Jacob", we must do our very best to get over; I &m harassed through hunger; cold, wet, sand-flies, and fleas; we must get out of this misery as soon as possible." Half an hour later we tried again, going up to the jafm-pits in the water; it .was not very rapid, 'so we accomplished it after much trouble. jHe&eldtfkst to the stiek in my hands, otherwise he cduld not have got across. It was nearly- SO we stepped out quick along the strand ; presently it became very dark, but we could not stop; the beach was solid and level, making good travelling ground. We arrive*! shortly after midnight at the Teramakau. I succeeded, notwithstanding the heavy rain, in making a fire —a large one —as there was abundance of drift-wood. We lay down, and slept a little. Next morning was fine. We stood up and looked round, but neither saw nor heard anyone. We could see the Maori pah distinctly on the opposite side, but no smoke ascended from it —a proof that no one was living there; neither was there any sign of Captain Dixon's ship—all seemed deserted. Numbers of pigeons flew about the forest, and Mr. Whitcombe repented bitterly that we had not brought a gun with us, which I had so strongly advised him to do. After looking about us for an hour, he said to me, " You perceive, Jacob, there is no one here to give us any assistance ; we must get across somehow, or we shall be starved to death.' I told him it was quite impossible to cross; the only thing we could do was to follow up the river through the bush; we might surely catch enough wood-hens or other birds to keep us alive. He replied, " I cannot pos- 1 sibly go through the bush any more; lam too weak." He sat down, and continued : " I shall not take to the bush again; if Ida not find Dixon's ship at the Grey, I shall take a Maori with me to the Buller; there vessels arrive frequently; I shall then go to Nelson, and buy as much provisions for you as you like ; you can then go to the Terajnakau saddle, and return with the two men and horses, who are waiting for us there to take us back to Christchurch." Then, rising up, he said, "We must try and find something to take us over on; I think two good dry logs tied together with flax will answer well enough." " No," I said, "it will not answer; I have crossed this river twice when there were five of us and a Maori, and we had nevertheless the greatest difficulty. The fiver is rapid, broad, and deep, and once in the stream, the current will take us out among the breakers, when we are lost. It is fetter for you to remain by the fire while I to in the bush and try and catch something before I return. Perhaps some Maoris or, diggers may come down the river, 9E come from' the Grey; the Maoris are always about. He did not like this Arrangement; ! and said, "If I was not-sowfeak, I 1 could-

easily swim across ; I have swam over worse places than this, but a raft will answer the purpose; it would take too long to make a mogie; it does not look at all dangerous." I made no answer; I saw he was annoyed at my opposition, and remained sitting. He went about, looking for the logs of wood to form a raft. I determined in the meantime to do my . best to dissuade him from this dangerous experiment. Suddenly he cried out, " Hurrah! hurrah! Jacob." I could not conceive what caused this cry of rejoicing, so I jumped up and ran to him. " Now," said he, " we have a canoe to carry us over." In reality a canoe lay at his feet, but it was useless; it was about ten or twelve feet long, and one foot wide; the inside was not more than eight inches deep, the higher sideboards were missing. I told him it would not take over a cat, much less two men. " You are right," he said, " it is too bad, but further on lies another canoe; we shall make them fast together, and there is no danger." " Oh," said I, " I saw that canoe also ; the bow is broken off." " That can-be easily mended," he answered, " let us take a look at it." I went with him to see it; it lay alongside an old hut, and was no better than a bit of a rotten log, about seven or eight feet long, but a little broader and deeper than the other. As I hesitated to lay hands on it, he seemed much annoyed, and said in a reproachful tone, " I always thought, Jacob, that you feared nothing, but now I see I was mistaken; if we tie these two canoes together there can be no danger; besides, I am a good swimmer, and if we meet with a misfortune, I can assist you." I told him again I was a very bad swimmer, and therefore dreaded much to cross in this manner. But on account of his displeasure, and the peculiar circumstances in which we were placed, I no longer opposed him. I got to work immediately; put a piece of board on the damaged spots of the canoes, bound tight with flax, stopping up the holes as well as possible with some rags we found in the hut; then out of other pieces of board I made two pretty good paddles, and sawed out two long steering poles. Having so repaired it, we took it to the lagoon where the other one lay, to try it. He sat down in it and paddled down the still water; it floated barely an inch and half above the level of the water. When he arrived alongside the other canoe, he said, " You see, now, you were afraid without just cause; both will carry us quite safely;" he spoke in a very friendly tone. I made no answer, but I felt my heart beating violently, greatly fearing the result. We drew the canoes together, laid two strong pieces of wood across, and bound all together as tight as possible ; it was nearly four o'clock when all was ready; the tide had turned, and the pent-up river rushed out madly into the sea. It commenced to rain. Mr. Whitcombe was in a great hurry to ctoss, as, if we succeeded, he wished to get to the Grey the same evening. In the middle of the river lies a small island. We determined to ascend the river by the side, where the water was comparatively still, then from $ projecting rock, where we could no longer remain in quiet water, push off to the island, go round this and steer for the opposite bank. I had made this passage twice before, but we had then a good boat, besides five men. So we stepped in and laid the swag in the bottom; I took the steering pole in.my hands aid pushed. off from the shore. As long as we were in smooth water all went well—the canoes floated about an inch and half above ithe surface. I placed myself in the longest canoe, on the off side; he in the other, at the opposite end. I steered while he the water out as it came in, with a pannikin, but kept the billy alongside in case it came in quicker; thus we reached the rocky point; the water came in more rapidljr; he had to bale fast; I could see that when we reached the rapid current, we would not be able to withstand it. I said to him, in tones of entreaty, " Oh, Mr. Whitcombe, let us return, the water comes in too fast, lam greatly afraid." " Turn back, Jacob," he said, " what are you thinking about, it is going all right, it could not be better, steer to the island, and then round it, there is no danger whatever." I drew off my coat tp work better, laid the steering pole in the bottom of the canoe, as I could no longer reach the bottom, and commenced to paddle the canoes into the stream; but .we had not got many yards in the current before the canoes filled quickly with water, Mr. Whitcombe called out, " Jacob, bail out the water, the canoes are full." I let fall the paddle, seized my leather cap, and began to bail, but in vain; in a moment the canoes were a foot below the water, and sinking fast; they drifted into the middle of the stream, and in another instant were three feet below the surface, and carried rapidly towards the breakers. Mr. Whitcombe, seeing the danger, cried out "We are lost, Jacob, and it is all my fault; leave the canoes, swim to this side, it is not far to the shore ; follow me, quick! quick! or you will be drowned." So saying, be took off his coat, and threw it into the water, then took a great leap into the Btream. The recoil of the kick overturned the canoes, and they turned sideways in the water. I saw him afterwards swimming with powerful strokes in the direction of the south side, from whence we had started, and which was still the nearest. I had no doubt he would save himself, but I thought I was lost—lost, beyond all hope. I held fast to the poles which bound the canoes together. I would not let go an end of flax, rolling it three or four times round my left hand. I could no longer keep my head above water, the canoes sank so deep; they were turned upside down in the mid-channel; presently they rose a little. I looked about for an instant; I was just at the foot of the first breaker, about to bear me up high in the water; I felt my hair stand on end; I bent down close to the canoes, deep in the water, cramped up tight, when the first wave broke, showing me another following it up from the depth of the sea, and rolling towards the beach, getting higher and higher; when they get. nearly perpendicular they topple over; this first one broke on top of me, burying me deep in the sea; but the second bore up the canoes, bearing me on the crest of a wave; in (

an instant the canoes were turned over so rapidly that had I not wrapped the flax several times round my hand I must have lost the canoes, my right hand having slipped, but they rolled over and over, giving me once such a severe blow on the head that I thought my scull was broken; another time on the back, and my left arm was so twisted that I thought it was broken. I now perceived that I must not get on top of the canoes if I wished to avoid being beaten to death; I could rest my head and breast on them a little, and sink below the surface when the waves broke, when they could not strike me so hard; the canoes kept themselvesquieterwhenthey were turned upside down. After a while it got calmer; still the sea ran high, throwing me hither and thither; I got an instant to look about me, but the night was very dark, and the rain falling fast. Thus I drifted about for some hours in the sea, nearly benumbed, and so swollen up from swallowing the salt water, that I could scarcely breathe. My whole body was sore from the blows I got from the canoes; I had no hopes of being saved; I thought that even if I lived till morning, I should be so far out to sea, that I must starve. A feeling of desperation overcame me, and I determined to end my sufferings at once. The thought soon gave me a sense of relief; I would let go the canoes; I felt certain I could not last much longer; all power had left me, and I felt utterly wretched; but I found I could not let go, my hands were so cramped—fastened as if they were nailed to the canoe. I have often looked death in the face in the deadly battle and in dangerous places, but it never appeared so near before. I remained sometime longer in this situation, and suddenly, when I sank with the wave, I felt the canoe strike against something; I thought it must be a sand-bank, or a large stump or log lying in the sea. I determined to find out what it was when the canoes should strike again. Presently they did so; I lowered myself quickly, but could feel nothing; again it struck, and I felt the ground about four feet under water. I drew myself with great difficulty back on to the canoe; with all my strength I tore my hands loose, and waited for a fresh shock. It occurred soon ; I slipped down, but I could not use my limbs, and fell up to my neck in the water; in an instant a fresh wave reached me, and struck me down, and bore me back into the deep water. I had now nothing in my hands, and did not make the least attempt to save myself; another wave bore me to the shore again. I was only knee deep in the water, but I could not hold myself, and once more I was carried back into the sea. The third time I was nearly senseless, and hoped soon to be out of my misery. The fourth time I struck something hard with my head —it was a pile of drift-wood; I grasped it with my right hand, and the wave for once retired without me. I crawled over a great heap of drift-wood, and reached the firm land. The night was pitch dark, and the rain falling in torrents. I lay on my stomach with my face in the sand; I w r as awfully cold, and shaking all over; I drew as much wet sand over me as I could; I felt then as if in a trance, and did not Buffer so much. Strange forms flitted before mo! and I felt quite numb ; I knew it was daylight, but could not stir—l was as stiff as a log of wood, and quite numb. About nine o'elock it ceased to rain, and the sun shone out, but I felt no warmth; this I perceived with one of my eyes, the other being covered with sand. I managed to move the fingers of my right hand, and presently my whole arm; I now tried to turn round, but a long time in vain, but at last succeeded. I could see now that the sun was high, and I looked at my hands; they were perfectly black with sand-flies,, but I did not feel them; I laughed at their attempts to torment me. Having lain so for half-an-hour I tried to sit up ; I succeeded, but had to lie down again directly, I was dreadfully sick, and so puffed up and swollen that I nearly burst. I threw- up a quantity of sea water, sand, and gall, which relieved me greatly. I cleaned my hair and beard from sand, also my ears and nose —everything was full of sand. I tried at last to stand up, but could not. In another half-hour it had got pretty warm, and I succeeded; but how weak I felt, and what pains in all my limb's. I advanced a few yards, then sat down, and again tried to walk. I was fearfully thirsty; I must get a drink, or I would go-mad. Not far off was some fresh water; I got there with the greatest exertion, and took a drink, which refreshed me greatly. I could now see where I was —about one mile further south from where we attempted to cross the river. I washed my hands and face, which were covered with blood from the sand-flies that had taken advantage of my impotence. The only clothes I had on was a pair of trousers and. a flannel shirt; in one of my pockets was a knife and a few shillings, everything else was lost in the sea. 'I searched along the strand for a few muscles, and discovered a piece of my blanket. In my youth I had read " Robinson Crusoe" with great pleasure, and even wished myself in his place; now I was in reality nearly so situated, the story looked in quite a different light. I continued along the beach and found Mr. Whitcombe's coat which he had thrown into the river, my hair brush, a parcel of tobacco, the other portion of my blankets, the canoes and the biscuit bag; alittle further on I saw a pair of boots sticking upright; I hurried to the spot, and was horrified to observe that it was Mr. Whitcombe himself, his head and body buried deep in the sand, his legs and feet only uncovered. I tore away the sand instantly, and pulled him out; he was quite dead; his waistcoat was unbuttoned, and drawn over his head; I drew it back; his watch hung to a buttonhole, fastened by a chain; there was another chain fastened to a buttonhole with a clasp and keys; these I took possession of. I also took his neckerchief, which was nearly loose. I then searched his pockets, but they were all full of sand. His face was not distorted nor cut in the least, only about the nose was a little blood to be seen. I could not leave him lying there; an hour later, and tide would reach him again, I must draw him up to a higher spot. I could at one time have carried two men like Mr. Whitcombe, ,but |

I now it was otherwise. I tried several times, ! but in vain ; I set him upright—he was quite stiff. I knelt down on one knee, and let him fall across mv shoulders, but I could not support him, and I fell to the ground. What was to be done : the tide rose nearer and nearer; I took quickly two piecesof driftwood, about six feet long, placed the body on it, and tied it with flax, then placed cross pieces on the sand ; and so I succeeded in pushing it out of the reach of the sea. Here I commenced to dig a grave with my hands, but the sand was very hard, and mixed with stones. I worked more than an hour before 1 could get down two feet; I then laid the best piece of my blanket at the bottom, drew the bodjr to the grave and laid it in, in the same position I had found him, his head to the south. I then wrapped the blanket round him, [aid his coat on top, and filled in the grave, drawing all the sand from round about. I laid some logs of wood on top of all, to prevent birds or dogs tearing away the sand, and then marked the spot carefully. I had got tender-hearted during this sad performance, and I felt tears roll down my cheeks. Having finished, and the evening coming on, I bad to think about myself. I wished greatly to make a fire, but I had no materials. I went to the hut where the things had been left by the Maoris and searched carefully for matches, but in vain; I found, however, some half-burnt rag in the chimney, which had been used to stop up a hole. I drew it out and found it dry. I looked for a piece of quartz, and commenced striking fire with my pocket knife; at last the rag caught. |l blew it into a blaze, and in a short time had a little fire in the hut. I took a firebrand, and set fire to an enormous heap of driftwood; when it burned up, I could not approach within many yards of it. I dried everything I had picked up, took a mouthful of water, and lay down. I had warmth enough all night from the enormous fire, but I trembled still, and even now, while I write this, I feel the effects of this hardship. Next morning early, I left this mournful place, passing through the dense bush along the river. I could not go further than about three miles; at night I lay down, without being able to catch anything to eat all day. I felt famished with hunger; suddenly I heard something crying out in the distance, but could not distinguish what it was. I jumped up and ran as quickly as possible in the direction, but I could not hear it again. I lay down once more, but now I could distinctly hear the barking of a dog. Again I went in the direction; it was dark night, and at last I saw the light of a fire. I went to it and found a hut, with a Maori, his wife and child. I asked him if he had anything to eat. He said, no: That he had been a long time waiting for Dixon's ship, but could wait no longer, and was about to leave the spot next morning. I said he surely must have something; I had tobacco and money about me, and would pay him well. I told him my misfortunes, and gave him four sticks of tobacco; he then gave me a couple of very small potatoes that were cooking — they tasted delicious. During the night he caught a few small fish in a fixed net. He gave me again a couple of potatoes and three small fish, but not half enough; still I felt better. I asked him for something to take with me. At first he refused, but afterwards was persuaded, and gave me two handsful, for which he demanded ten shillings, giving me, besides, an old cap. In making our bargain, he saw I had some tobacco left, and asked for some of it. I replied, " My tobacco is just as dear as your potatoes; if you had been more liberal, I would have given you nearly all this; but now I won't." I packed up everything and left him. I travelled all day through the bush, but the weather was very fine. In the evening, I had got about three miles up the river, when suddenly I heard some one speaking near the river. I cooeed; they answered me; I immediately ran to the spot, and saw a canoe with five Maoris going down. They came up to me, and expressed great surprise to see me there alone. I asked them for some food; they said they had none —they were coming from the diggings, and going to the Buller river. I then asked them to put me across, which they immediately did. I went on the same evening to the diggings, where I found two Maoris and their wives. I asked them for some food, and related my misfortunes ; they had little or nothing for themselves, but they gave me a small piece of a roast wood-lien, and told me they had set eel-baskets in the river, and, if any were caught, I would get a good breakfast. I slept in the hut, and next morning early they looked at the baskets, but there were no eels in them. I ate half the potatoes I had brought with me, gave the Maoris some tobacco, and went on my way. I determined now to leave the Teramakau, and go towards Lake Brutiner, where I hoped to find Mr. Howitt's party. Should I fail to do so, I felt certain I could get as many eels and wood-hens as I wanted. I followed up the Ohoui creek, walking in the water. In the evening I had nearly reached the summit of the range, when I camped for the night. Next day I crossed it, and down the other side. I could not tell whether I was too much to the right or left; I had lost my pocket-compass, but by the sun I could tell in what direction I should find Lake Brunner. I came to a stream, which I followed down, and passed the night in a very wet plain. I tried to eke out my potatoes as long as possible, and only to eat them at the greatest need. Next day I came to very swampy ground, and had to make a circuit of several miles. At last, about two p.m., I reached the lake, to my great satisfaction. I killed a robin to Bnare wood-hens with, or for a bait to catch eels at night. I ascended a peak where I could get a good view of the neighbourhood, and I saw smoke rising up in the distance, most likely from some Maoris come here to fish ; but it might possibly be Howitt and his party. I went towards it, going along the lake up to my arms in water, and about a mile further I heard the blow of an axe, and a short time after a tent and some men. It was Howitt; I was saved. I told my story briefly, but already the billy hung over the fire, and a wood-hen

and an eel were put 011 the coals ; and, while ' continuing an account of my adventures, enjoyed a hearty meal. We all lamented sincerely the loss of poor Mr. Whitcombe. One of the men gave me a pair of dry trousers, another a jacket, and so I found myself once more in a suit of good clothes. Mr. Howitt then proposed to send me with his two horses to Mr. Taylor's station, which gave me great satisfaction, although I felt very weak. I had a good supper, bed, and breakfast; he gave me then as much provisions as I would have —bread, tea, sugar and matches. He had made a canoe for his own use, in which he and one of his party put me across the lake, saving me more than a day's very bad travelling. After some trouble they caught the I hores, saddled them, and put my little swag on one, leaving the other for me to ride. The Maoris had told me I could not cross the saddle, from the depth of the snow. Howitt said he thought they were right, but I could try it. If it was too deep, I had only to return the same road. He advised me to hurry as much as possible, while the fine weather continued; to drive fast, and not spare the horses; saying, besides,that the old grey horse knew every inch of the road; so that I could even ride during the night, if I liked ; and so forth. I thanked Mr. Howitt for this, the third time I had enjoyed his hospitality, took a hasty farewell, and rode the same evening jko the Teramakau; night had come 011; so, jmaving found a little grass, I unsaddled, to pass the night there. I tethered one horse with a long rope, well knowing that the other would not stray far alone, made a fire and some tea, and succeeded in snaring two fat wood-hens, on which I made a hearty meal. About midnight I heard the tethered horse making off, having broken his rope and gone off looking for better feed. I followed him and caught him after a run of nearly a mile. As this might occur again I determined to go on, although the night was very dark, the horses knew the way; I saddled them, riding one and driving the one with the pack in front of me. I let the bridle hang loose on my horse's neck, and nearly fell asleep on his back. Suddenly I heard the first horse enter the river—mine followed; I left him to go his own way, as I could not see. I never was a good rider, and had not ridden much for some years. Suddenly my horse stumbled and fell 011 his knees, throwing me over his head into the water; I kept a hold of the bridle; when he gained his feet I pulled him to me, and taking hold of the stirrup, made him draw me out on dry land. Except the wetting I wa> not the least hurt, and could not avoid laughing at the mishap, j When I had ridden on a little distance, they | came to a dead halt,nor could I get them to go | any further. On dismounting I saw the reason at once; it was an old camping ground, where they had been accustomed to stay for the night. I took the saddles off and made breakfast, letting them feed for an hour. I rode on afterwards to the foot of the saddle, where I arrived towards evening, and it was too rough to go any further that day. Next day it rained; I drove both horses before me; they went so fast I had great difficulty to keep up with them. Presently the rain changed to snow, but the horses knew the track so well I did not mind it. There was very little of the old snow remaining, and what was then falling could not hinder me much. About three o'clock I came to the hut before described, \7here the men were to wait for us. They did not recognise me, without my old cap, but asked with astonishment where I came from; whether I belonged to Howitt's party, and if I had seen anything of two men—Mr. Whitcombe and Louper. " You must be mad," I said; " give me some mutton, if you have any." "Oh!" said George (the youngest), "it is Jacob ; now I know him; where is Mr. Whitcombe?" "He is dead," I answered, and then told them everything. It rained all night and next day, but we went as far as Lake Sumner, and passed the night in another old hut, and the following day reached Mr. Taylor's station. As soon as he heard of the death of Mr. Whitcombe he came to see me, with Mrs. Taylor, who brought me some cake, and a good warm drink ; he also give me a blanket, and pressed me to stay a few days to rest myself; he immediately despatched one of his men to acquaint Mr. Whitcombe's family with their sad loss before the news could reach town. We started, however, the next morning, and reached Christchurch in five days, without further accident.