A CHILD OF ’78

Hawera Star, Volume L, 10 April 1930, Page 14 (Supplement)

A CHILD OF ’7B

(By W.A.Q.)

In October, 1878, the good old steamer “Stormbird,” plying between AA'ellington and Wanganui, bore tlie writer’s family and fortunes from the south to this coast. On arrival at the river port we were housed in Brennan s Custom House Hotel and remained there some weeks while the head of the family journeyed north to spy out the land. Everything being duly arranged for our transit, we trekked north tlic following month in two large waggons, following the rough anil unmetalled road, which ran mostly on the same line of route

as the existing highway. There was an element of excitement in our passage through the Nukumaru and AYaitotara districts, for the murder of a surveyor at Moumahaki by the native Hiroki had just occurred, and the assassin was still at large, consequently every copse and brake appeared to us children to be possibly occupied by the hunted man thirsting for more pakeha blood. Near Olceliu, on the second morning of our 1 sultry and dusty journey, the smoke of a native campfire became visible near the route, arid the figures of a number of women preparing a morning meal. Our mother, womanlike, “dying for a cup of tea,”, boldly decided to disembark from the lumbering vehicle and visit the. Alaori encampment in search of the seductive stimulant. AVe thought our parent and protectress had certainly gone into the .lion’s den, but, to our surprise and delight, she presently, returned with, a number of Alaori waliines laden with little flaxen baskets of eatablcs, which they pressed upon us. This was our first introduction .-to the kindly people of. whom we had heafd such blood-curdiing accounts of atrocities committed. ARRIVAL AT PATEA. Reaching Patea at length we outspanned at Mr John Beamish’s Alasonic Hotel, and the proprietor, who had some ten years before, fought for his life, in the defence of the Turuturu-mokai redoubt, regaled us with further stories of that stirring incident, and the Hauhau campaign that followed. Patea was then quite a lively little place, and was considered Jlie capital, or centre, of the district, Hawera being regarded merely as an outpost. Resuming our journey after a brief stay in Carlyle (as it was then called), we came in sight, of the Hawera township in the afternoon of the ‘same day, and had great difficulty in securing a house or shelter of any kind. A mild rush had set in, owing'largely to the prospect of much local land being about to be offered, and all the public places of accommodation, then limited to two hotels and several boarding-houses, were full. Eventually we secured a somewhat tumble-down cottage on the northern outskirts of the township and gladly took possession. However, we made the best of the rude accommodation, which, in fact, was much better than that endured by many of the selectors’ families around. Mr. AAA Douglas, senior, was our landlord, and made our stay pleasant by the gift of fruit and vegetables, both of which, we observed, succeeded admirably in the fertile district around. As far as memory serves me, there was only one metalled road in Hawera at the time, the main street, and that was only macadamised for some twenty chains. * The intersecting streets and roads were merely rutty lanes, over which heavy bullock drays and an occasional buggy jolted. Princes Street and AA’ilson Street were not formed till some years later. Traffic northwards used to go through Bamford’s paddock on to the Glover Road, a break in the gorse hedge serving as an exit. There were only, about four houses in this

quarter (Wilson Street) then. Three churches contributed to the architecture of the village, tlfe Wesleyan temple not having been yet erected. The Rev. Mr Root w.ns .the Anglican pastor, Mr Torre the Presbyterian, minister, and lather Pevtuis shepherded the Roman Cdtholie flock. The largest store appeared to be that of Mr James Davidson. This was situated on the site of Messrs Blair’s ironmongery premises, and stood back from the footpath some ten or twelve feet. Business in general appeared to be very

“DREAMS WHICH LIVE FOREVER”

active, owing to tlie. influx; or so many new arrivals requiring supplies. At this time there was a doubt as to whether Hawera or its newly-established rival, Nlormanby, would become the predominant centre of the district. Impressed by the possibilities the latter township and district, we decided to remove thereto, and found a mild boom in the building trade going on there. Messrs. J. and T. Eobson had established sawmills at Ketemarae, and there was quite a township around their factorv. Normanby supported two hotels (later on,, three), and there was also one at Ketemarae. Three large stores, those of Messrs. Gibson, England and Bercsford, catered for the wants of the residents, and the place had every appearance of coming importance. However, the boom burst early in the eighties, and Normandy has never again attained the position it then occupied.

MANY CHANGES NOTED. A resident of over fifty years in the district has naturally many changes to note. The high fern and tutu which then covered the plains around has given way to a sward of English grasses. The bush which then flourished within two miles of Hawera and in the immediate vicinity of Normanby has all been cleared off and laid down in pasture. Practically all the back country within sight of the water tower has been denuded of the thick forest J which then stretched unbroken back to ' \ Ruapehu. Farmers’ homes now dot the 1 bush area, which once was deemed useless for settlement on account of the regrowth of scrub and purupuru (bullybull) on such few clearings as had been attempted. Coincident with the vast change wrought by settlement, on the flora of the country came a regrettable denudation of indigenous fauna, and in that later introduced) Wild pigeons and kakas, which then abounded in the hinterland, withdrew to more inaccessible parts of the interior or were destroyed wholesale by the guns of the settlers. Pheasants, not long acclimatised, .took their places in the clearings, but these, too, after flourishing amazingly for a decatle or so, are now extremely rare. Wild pigs and cattle vacated the region blasted by the bush fires, and although the former are still prevalent in the remote back country, the latter are now non-existent, as also are the native birds. . .. ......

CHANGED HABITS OF MAORIS. The habits and customs of the Maori people have also changed amazingly in the passage of lialf-a-century. The men then for the most part discarded such apparel as trousers-and hats, and. boots and shoes were practically unused . among them. Waist-mats, with an oc-'^A k> casional Crimean shirt bought at pakeha stofeT were all that were required. Later on the gradual change into European habiliments almost led to their extinction, and for a period, with the w-ail of the tangi going up every day, there was a real fear that this people, so gifted in physique and so mighty in battle, would become extinct like their moa and huia. Happily that, danger has passed off, and. the Maori people are now again walking the path, of longevity and health. With our own people, too, the changes in customs have been many and notable. Once every man rode or walked to his occupation; now he drives his car or cycles to work. The vast increase .in the publication of printed matter has resulted hot so much in a great gain of information as in its effects oh the sight of modern people. Standing at the intersection of High and Regent Streets recently the writer,, within a period of a quarter of an hour, counted twenty-two people wearing spectacles. When it is considered that 50 years ago the appearance of a. man wearing glasses would have been an occasion for rude boys to follow him with insulting 1 personal remarks, the growing weakness of the people’s sight is strongly ) brought to the notice of the observer. Physically, generally speaking, the race seems to have improved during the last five decades, and it seems to be an acknowledged fact that longevity is increasing. Reviewing in mind the passing' of 50 years and recalling the happy days of a childhood spent in this district in the early days, of the holiday hours spent basking in the sun or playing in the trenches of the old pa, one cannot help thinking that there is something appropriate in the words of John Boyle O’Reilly (recited with such effect in the local Opera House by the late Mel. B. Spurr some 25 years ago):— I would dream, as o" olu, by the river, And be lot od for the dream alway— For the dreamer lives forever, But the toiler dies in a day !