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GARDENING FOR THE WEEK, Issue 15696, 9 January 1915
GARDENING FOR THE WEEK
Our contributor, a well-known gardener, trill be glad to answer questions, which tiiut be received not later than Tuesday of each week. —Tho Vegetable Garden.— The general remaiks in last week's notes will do verv well for this week. Keep an eye on the weather, arid immediately after a good rain, whilst, the ground is moi*t ?nd the weather cool, get in -winter greens. It is easy to provide a snpnlv of'vegetables at this season of the rear, "but it requires a considerable nmouiu of skill and forethought produce n plentiful assortment of good vegetans ait the. year round. During the next two or three weeks got in such things at broccoli of various kinds (early, r.id-season, and late spring. aiso savoys. Drumhead cabbage, bni.-tel.-uprouts, and curly kale. ' Autumn-sown onions should he sufficiently advanced in bulbin- U> necessitate their'tops being bent down. _ This assists them to tuber. A dressin- of root ami ■' little salt mixed with it. v ill also prove beneficial. —The. Rose Garden.— Very shortly the first Jin.-i: of the bloomins season of the rose will be past. The next blooming period is vhat is termed the autumn flowering, and to secure a nice show of first-class tiowers at that time it is necessary to keep the rose plants in g.>ed heart. That means removing de cayed Bowers and seed pods (other thru, what are required for seed , also fe-»dm_'. No bett-r time for tin- feeding etn Hthan after the first ihi-h. i- ever and immediately after or duvii— a rain. It is "•rcvi'sing how roses wlii respond to tins treatment. Of onurs.\ the coed old liquid manure, made from cow, sheep. i<nd horse
r>anure. Ie the most reliable' and \-c>*.. but if this form of manuring is objectionable, a -cod substitute is found : n guano, liberally supplied and well w.itered in. I cannot pass over the rose this week viihout making s cue reference to a few of the ccmnarativeiy n."w sorts and others that hare the wit up very pi eminently this season. I have ;c°i! a i'-w ruse.-, in my time, bur never a iiner. it as tine, a m.-«i pink shaded varic-tv tr.au I cut to-day ti-om a Mrs J. IL Welsh, and ; t was from a maiden ousli buddrd only in Feluuary lasi. This vaiietv was premier at ouv !;-isl rose show, but the bloom i mention fur eclipsed the show flower. Rayon d'Or. i p>uch-ta.iked-of rose, has with many beer. =< i.vwhat disappohuiog h 1 constitution, hut with, me it has been very beautiful, Mid the color is superb—;t beautupl canary reilow. The growth is very Soring and :!•■■ foliage perfect, especially considering ihs fearful winds we have had. Mrs E. Powell is a fine, red ; Duchess o[ Sutherland a grand rose pink : and George Diek--•oi is a wonderful ios-\ No that I know- has the color and substance of jwtai that th' 3 possesses, and the growth is ox<e«iinglv ""strong. Mr* Herbert Stevens is the" be=t .'ill-round white- rose that I ki:ow. There are only a lew of what 1 rail tip-top varieties. * Some persons will most likely svy: '• I suppose they have been highly fe"d and protected, and nil thatport of thing." I can honestly say that the above-mentioned and hundreds of others have not had one drop of water or feed by way of liquid manure or stimulants of any kind other than what has fallen from the heavens, neither has the ground been specially prepared —only dug two spades deep, with a little good manure placed between the top and bottom spit in the usual wav.
I will touch briefly upon the budding of roses for the benefit of amateurs and others. The usual time for budding ro-es
is January and February, teas for the early date, hybrid' teas nest, and hybrid perpetnals for the latter date, for catching the buds in the right condition. Teas as a, xnle axe tVie fixst Tio mature -tWAx Wivlb, for the simple reason that they usually flower first; hybrid teas next, and so on. The next thing of importance is bavins the stocks well advanced. Assuming that the buds are in the right condition, the first thing is to provide one's self with a very sharp budding knife, some raffia cut into lengths about 6in or Bin. then the required number of labels, and a piece of -wet sack or damp cloth. Cut off pieces of wood with the right buds upon them, and remove all leaves except a portion of the leaf stem to hold the bud—and place them in the damp folds of the sack. When you have the desired number, clear the stems of all thorns if any remain. Insert the blade of a sharp knife nearly an inch above the bud, bringing the blade down-ward to nearly the same distance below the bud. Turn out the blade, bringing the bud away with a thin tail attached. Turn the bud bottom tip in the left hand. Then with the point of the knife and the thumb of the right hand draw out with a jerk the wood from the bud. If it has come away properly it will have the appearace of a grain of sand lying in the hollow of the bud. Shorten bark the heel of the bud. Make- a clean cut up the stem 2;n in length and as iear the ground as possible. Make n ;roK» cut at the top of the cot. Insert the handle of the hudcrug knife, raising the bark slightly. Insert the end of the bud at the cross cut at the top of the cut. Push down the bud under the bark find carefully tio it with raffia or worsted, then the operation is nirnnV-ie. Tf the season be a dry one, the .-tocks should have a watering t-> keep t.V. sap flowing until the buds get- established, which should be in three or four weeks. By examining the buds about a fortnight after budding it will I>> easily seen if the buds have taken. If failures have occurred insert another bud before the budding season passes. For budding fruit trees and other subjects the end of February will answer. —Strawberries.— Tf it is decided to plant strawberries no time should be lost in preparing the ground. Ground that has been trenched and manured and a crop of potatoes taken off is very suitable for this crop. Where this cannot be had, th* next best thing is to work the trround well and deep, manuring it at the same time. The advantage of summer working is the destruction of weeds and weed seeds. This is very important, and saves a lot of after iabor. If the ground has been previously cropped with potatoes, see that all tubers —large or small—are lifted. Apply soot and superphosphate, and light!v fork them in. In the case of newly-dug ground procure wood ashes or burnt rubbish. Any burnt ve£eta.ble matter will answer—the rakings of the ground, dry weeds and soil, all burnt, answer admirably for keeping the ground open and free. On steep faces this deep digging is impossible, so one mnst us* his own discretion. —Answers. — " Daff" asks : Is it advisable to lift daffodils every year ? Is so, when should they be lifted, and when planted ? Also, ie it necessary to lift tulips and hvacinths each year?—lf the ground where daffodils are planted has been well cultivated before planting they can be left two or three years with advantage. It is a mistake to lift them every year. The time for lifting is just as the leaves have died down. Hyacinths and tulips are best lifted each year. I will write more fully ■boot bulbous plants next week. H.C.
GARDENING FOR THE WEEK, Issue 15696, 9 January 1915
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