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Our contributor, a well-known gardener, wSI be glad to answer questions, which nust be received not later than Tuesday of each week. —The Vegetable Garden.—■ Examine seed beds and seed crops in order to detect any failures, and, if there are any, sow again immediately. The hoe must be employed amongst rising crops to keep down weeds and to keep an open and free surface soil. Plant out cabbage and cauliflower. Make another small sowing of cabbage for coming in in the early winter. Sow broccoli of the early winter, midwinter, and spring varieties. If a regular supply of broccoli is desired it is necessary to sow at least three kinds. Moke the main sowing of carrots for winter use. James's intermediate is a good kind. Sow for succession turnips. Mmwball ts a good one. It is wise to sow now a little garden swede seed for winter me. Thin out onions as they become ready to from 3in to 6in apart, according to tho kind. Alisa Craig, the globe, and such like varieties reipiirc to be quite 6in apart. For the smaller kinds oin will be sufficient. Again, if small tubers, say for pickling, aro desired, do not thin out at all. There is still time for -owing the small class of onion for pickling. Tim seed should be sown thickly and the soil made very firm when sowing for pickling. Scarlet runners and French beans are about the tenderest of the bean family, and where these have suffered to any extent by the recent severe weather fresh sowings should be made. Prepare trenches for early celery. The trenches should be Ift deep and loin in width, well enriched with manure. It is hardly possible to make the soil too rich for this crop, as the faster celery grows the finer it is. Transplant leeks into trenches, and make another sowing for a late crop. —The Vinery.— Keep on a warm and humid atmosphere, and allow no cold draughts, as the vines should be making rapid progress in setting the crop of fruit. Whilst tho setting process is going on it is a good plan to give the vines a good shake or sharp rap. Tins liberates the capsule from the small fruit, consequently assists setting. Attend also to tho stopping of laterals and tho tying out of side shoots. —The Tomato-house. - Plenty of work will be found among these just now in the way of watering, keeping down weeds on the borders, pinching out nil laterals, and tying up each plant as progress advances. Keep a worm and fairly moist atmosphere during the fruit-setting, but avoid a stuffy and muggy air. It is a good plan to slightly shake or rap each can© or plant. This assists setting in a similar way as with the vinos. When a good crop is set feeding should ho given. Tomatoos can always stand a little assistance then. —The Fruit Garden.— Wall trees, such as apricots, poaches, and cherries, will requite attention in the way of pinching back, surplus luca©:-wood to about two even, ami lying or nailing i in good strong ©hoots wlim* vacancies i occur. A watchful eye mast, bq. kept to ; prevent a superabundant growth occurring ] in on© particular direction. It often happens that ore or two shoots will be growing away at a great pace at the expense of ths remainder of the tree. When this takes place, the point, should be pinched out. By this topping a check is given; consequently the sap is turned into other channels, thus strengthening the remaining shoote and checking tho strong ones. Baspberriee.—The ground should bo hoed and all stickers or young canes that or - © ( growing up between tho rows should be removed, unless they are required for canes for another year. Mulching with fresh stable manure assists very much, besides tending to keep down weeds and keeping the roots cool, which is important in raspberry growing. Weed and ;'*e strawberry ground to get rid of weeds, and it will bo better for the plants and also the fruit if a mulching with good fresh stable manure bo given, as a mulching acts as a stimulant to the plants and the manure as a bed for the fruit to rest upon when ripe. This fresh stable manure become© quite derm with the rains and weather, consequently is no detriment to the fruit, but, on tho contrary, it is much cleaner, for in heavy j rains the soil does not get wash+xl over j the fruit. _ j Gooseberries are growing and swelling,' rapidly, and becoming fit for use. Where | good large fruit is desired, the thinning- ' out of tne green _ fruit should be done \ rothor than stripping off the whole fruit i from one place or from one bush. Goose- j berries will respond to feeding just now, j either hy top-dressing or liquid manure. Feeding and attention at this season will grsatly add to the sue and quality of the fruit. If extra large allow fruit is desired, thin out somo of the branches, peg them down with wooden 1 rooks, and place causers of water immediately under tho fruit and almost touching. Refill as evaporation goes on. ■—Answers,— ** Aarioula.”—The best time to deal with tho common border auricula is the early autumn, as then the soil gets well settled before tho winter, and they have not a hot summer to go through. Prepare a piece of ground well for them. If it i» not rich, make it so with well-rotted manure. Tbs aurlaala delights in rich soil, and it surprises what a great difference to the Quality of Vjo, bloom u made by tho application of good manure. It Ls important this work should bo done early in &e autumn, so as to get tho plants eatabBahai before winter *cta in. Take off tho offshoots with as many roots attached as nossihlo. Offshoots without roots will do. But they or* not nearly so good i iu fact, to give such cuttings justice they should be pricked out Into shallow boxes, using rich randy loom, placing the box into a cold, shady frame, giving plenty of water, and planting out later when they, have made roots. But divided crowns or offsets may be planted direct to the border. If you good border flower’s, always take care to select the beet colors and increase your stock. Weed out the poor, thin, and washy tints, which are ineffective in the garden. Also raise > seedlings to gob new colors. Tb« best time for sowing is ns scon as the seeds are rij*-. Sow the seeds in rich loam and in shallow boxes. Keog

them in a cool, moiet situation (a shady cold frame » best). An important point Is to plant very deep. Showing only the leaves, they will work themselves right. “ Mater.”—The gooseberries you forwarded are not affected with any disease. Tho cause of the coloring on the fruit | when sc young is or may bo the result n£ stunted or damaged growth in tiro foliage caused by insufficient moisture at the roots, probably during tho dry spell, or tire foliage may ho damaged by gooseberry blight. As your black currants have very scant foliage this year, this is another proof that it is i want of moisture at tho roots that has been tiro trouble. I should ray vour soil ' is very light or dry. What you should do, I rather than dig the ground next season, is to give a good top-dressing with good mid well-rotted manure, and water it well in case of x cry drv weather, instead of digging the ground lit the usual way. You say you notice that I recommend cutting asparagus up to a certain date, and then stopping cutting altogether. Your bed lis the third season from cutting. You ask lif you can cut for three months. The answer ia yes. You fay vou started ont--1 ting on September 30. That date in December will do very well to discontinue cutting. ' H.C.

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GARDENING FOR THE WEEK, Issue 15650, 14 November 1914

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GARDENING FOR THE WEEK Issue 15650, 14 November 1914

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