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GARDENING FOR THE WEEK

Our contributor, a well-known gardener, will be glad to answer questions, which | 1 t.ust he received not later than J’uesday j c) each week. I —The Vegetable G.i n!oii. I To get siicvroional crops of anything in dry ami Imt u wither, thoroughly soak the ground ho for o sowing the seed. This may mean success or failure. When earthing up peas, beans, or any such crop, see that the coil is mud • nioi.-:. or give the rows a pood watering alterward?, nr- turning or moulding no >-Ail that is ('.arched ami hot will do mote harm than good. Avoid imng liquid manure whilst tie' ground in eve condition. i Thin out ■carrots, turnip-, pan 1 nil such as they become hit. lice ami mi: the ground well ni the same time. Thv will not only destroy a 1! weed seeds that may be corning through, hut, render the soil much more capable of i .sting drought than when the surface i? hard and undisturbed. Bo careful to keep young celery well watered, ai.-o lettuce beds ami newlyplanted cabbage and cauliflower. Tomatoes > arc coming on rapidly, ami will require a good deal of attention in regulating and stopping growth. Tie up all plants as growth demands. Km p tinplants well watered, but do not overdo this, even jn such weather as we .have been been experiencing, a- (''maters ran stand a lot of he.it. especially when given plenty of fresh air. -—The Vinery.— | Attend to shopping and tying out iatoi rats as growth demands. Keep the floor j of the vinery well watered, to create ;i | humid atmosphere. On no account keep j the atmosphere too hot and dry, ns a season like this may bring on red spider, and | once this gets a hold it is hard to get rid j of. Do not allow cutting winds to enter ; in large volumes, even though the day is ! hot. When ouch days occur give more ; water to the floor of the house to keep , down the heat. The Flower Garden.— Hyacinth, marcissus, and other such bulbs exposed to the full sunshine have been shorter lived than usual this season, and there will probably be an opportunity for clearing the beds and -preparing them for summer and other bedding plants much earlier than usual. I have been asked if it would do to cut off tiio tops and plant other flowers over ; where bulbous plants have been grown. I say no. It is a very unwise thing to cut off the tops whilst they are green { nor should bulbs be dug up in that condi- ' dition unless they are carefully heeled in. j Whore bedding with other flowers is do- ! sired for the purpose of making tilings ■ gay for the summer months, 1 strongly I recommend the bulbous plants to be lifted [ and carefully heeled in in shallow trenches j (keeping each lot labelled and separated) I for the purposes of ripening the bulbs and j enabling the ground to be redug and manured. This should bo done for two reasons. First, when the beds are constantly cropped more must be done in the way of manuring, top-dressing, and working for the summer bedding planus. The second reason is that ground that has been well manured and worked for summer bedding plants will be in tine condiI tion lor receiving the bulbous plants later, 1 and better than digging in manure name- ! diatcly before planting. Well-rotted | manure should be used.

It must also be decided now if it is dosired to plant the bulbs back again at the proper season mto the ground irom which they came. If the bulbs have to go back again, only such bedding plants as stocks, asters, phlox Drumrnondi, verbena, dianthus, marigolds, and such-like plants should be used, to enable them to be clearcd_ at the proper time. On the other hand, if the bulbs have to got a change, then, of course, more permanent things, such as galliardias, pelargoniums, geraniums, begonias, .and suchdiko should he used, though some of the latter kinds will have to be lifted and wintered inside. Another thing to be borne in mind is that as soon as the tops of the bulbs have ripened off they should be lifted and put away carefully into boxes and stored until planting _ time comes, as such things as the narcissul do not remain long at rest, but soon break away into root activity, therefore would be more or less injured if left in the ground until planting takes place. —The Greenhouse.— Pelargoniums will be nearing their full period of bloom, consequently will require regular watering and the tying out of flowering shoots, to give room for a good head of bloom. Continue once a week to give waterings; with weak liquid manure, lint this should cease when the blooms begin to open free!y, when clear water only should be given. Shading must be attended to, for if the sun gets full play upon them through the glass flowering season will be a short one. The best shading I know for greenhouses iq white lead and turps, made about the thickness of milk. Paint this on and dab it over with a stippling brush ; it will then have the appearance of frosted glass. This makes a soft and healthy light for most classes of plants. Ferns, especially the maidenhair class, will be orcatly benefited by frequent waterings with weak liquid manure. This and soot water given alternately will be found to greatly benefit them.

Pot on young ferns as growth demands, using good light turfy loam three parts, leaf mould two parts, and clean sharp sand one part, all well mixed. Most ferns are fond of peat, hut maidenhair ferns are better without it.

Fuchsias are now growing rapidlv. This plant should receive lots of feeding. A good rich loam to grow in is turfy loam three parts, well-rotted manure one part, sand two parts, with a handful of bont meal thrown in, all well mixed. As soon as the pots are getting well filled with roots start feeding with liauid manure. Fuchsias rah do with it fairlv strong. If large plants are desired, pot them on into large pots. Pinch out the points of each shoot, and ns soon as the next break of ‘shoots have made four leaves pinch these a(jain, and so on until the desired size is attained. Then stop pinching them back, and lot' them flower at will. Keep tho atmosnhere moist and warm, and always give fuchsias plentv of water. Remove all dead leaves and withered blooms as ftjguefti' uwou the nlants. and kata

floors and benches clean, and the whole | house moist and the plants shaded from ; the sun. I —Answers. — ) “ Chrysanthemum ” wishes to know if it j is too late for dividing chrysanthemums I to plant out this season. It k< certain';. i retting Into for dividing, but, it is quite I possible to do this yet, with a. prospect, ot a fair amount of success It will depend very much upon the state of the weather and the treatment they receive. Select a cool day for the work. Give the plants a good soaking two hours before lifting Never lift add divide plants when the ground L hot and dry v.ithout previously watering them. After they have been planted give them a good watering to settle the soil. See that tho soil is mace nice and firm about their roots. “Hydrangea" wishes to know how and when is ihe best time for striking hydrangeas.—The best time in the whole year for striking hydrangeas is February or .March, a- 'by 'that time the growth has become firm end mature. Tb° cutting;can bn inserted singly in small pots in sandy soil, and if kept close in a. warm frame for n time they will soon take root, and can then be [lotted off as nedicd, using, if available, a heavy loam for them. Heavy loam is preferable, tor the rea-on th it it produces much better i. oior in the bloom than is possible from light (■■r sandv soi's.

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Bibliographic details

GARDENING FOR THE WEEK, Evening Star, Issue 15638, 31 October 1914

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1,356

GARDENING FOR THE WEEK Evening Star, Issue 15638, 31 October 1914

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