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Paris Fashions.

The city is more crowded than it has been yet, the advent of fresh batches of tourists from all parts making up for the departure of some of the inhabitants at the beginning of the Long Vacation. Under these circumstances the opinions of certain Americans on , Parisian ladies' dress, lately published, j carry little weight. It is not eisy to under- ; stand how they managed to decide upon the ,' subject at all, and to discriminate between j real Parisians and visitors from the pro- | vinceu, even if they were always quite sure j never to mistake foreigners for French. j P.-mbtless the difficulties that lay in their j way account for the discrepancies in the I various conclusions at which they severally j arrived. At the Exhibition and other planes where people foregather largely throughout the day Parisians belonging to the best society are conspicuous by the relative simplicity of their attire. They have generally adopted a sensible styb of dress—one I that is uninjured by dust, and does not I get easily crumpled and damaged in a 1 jrowd, yet pretty and becoming withal, ! and miitable to town wear. They do I not make the mistake of treating Paris ' though they may happen to be here at a ; time of year when they are usually miles j away—as if it wero the country or the sea- ; side, and appear in yachting or tenuis costumes as some tourists are wont to do, to I the great amusement of the badatuU, and , the intense disgust of the English residents, who consider that "blazers" and "deerstalkers," beach shoes and sailor hats, prints and flannels, are as much out of place on the Boulevards and the Champ de Mars as they would be in Piccadilly or the Park. Alpaca is a material in high favor here just now, and lady tourists cannot do better than choose it for the costume to be worn during their stay in Paris, and with this, and a pretty foulard for the drive in the Bois, will be fully equipped, according to Parisian notions, for a sojourn in the gay capital. Mo mantle is required, only a light cloak foi cool or wet weather. The hat should be broad in the biim, ond either trimmed with ribbons or puffings of gossamer, with wings and birds. A bonnet is not a necessity, though one of the oval shapes takes very little room. Costumesare often made entirely of alpaca. The favorite hue for them is Bteel grey, or black shot with palest grey. They are mostly nntrimmed, the laprla and cuffs of the Empire bodice or spencer jacket being of the same material. One of the best styles for making them consists of a skirt arranged in fan pleats behind, double box pleats at the side, and the front breadth slightly draped by means of two or three folds secured to the waist and just below it in front of the hips. The edges are generally hemmed up and machine stitched. When something a little less severe in its contour is preferred, the spencer jacket may be turned back with watered or corded silk, and a sash to match knotted round the waist. Grey looks best trimmed with the same tint, but alpaca, woven of dark brown and white, may be combined with a little brown ailk for instance, the chemisette folded into a belt can be of this material, while the jacket is turned back with it, and two breadths arc introduced into the sides of the skirt. There is a fancy for symmetry just now, whereas of late the tendency has all been for irregularity—symmetry as regards skirts particularly. Bodices are still mado crossed, and with one side differently trimmed to the other. It is too late in the Beason to describe foulard costumes. They are still worn, of course, but no fresh ones are produced. All sorts of beige and other twilled woollen cloths woven of color and white are in request, and many pretty early autumn costumes are being made of them, the brown, crimson, tan, blue, and so on, being rendered less bright by the introduction of the white. Some have borderings of flowers reproduced in damask, others bands of the plain color or white on the selvedge. It is equally fashionable to use these borders as an edging for the skirt or as panels, and whether the trimming runs parallel to the ground line or at right angles to it is entirely a matter of taste. Collars, cuff's, pockets, are all cut out of the fancy band. Many of the new gowns have wide circular j collars nearly covering the shoulders as far as the arm-hole. They make a pretty finish to a simple bodice, and are likely to take the place of the yoke, which has been worn so long that people were beginning to wonder when it would go out. They are particularly applicable to dresses made more or less in the redingotc style. The actual coat is not so much in favor as the skirt arranged with flat pleats on each side, and bodice cut off at the waist. Large buttons or circular appliques of gimp are often used to trim the former, and packet flapsjare added on the hips. The material will be so arranged that the bordering runs round the bottom of the side and back breadths, the front being slightly draped. Dressmakers are beginning to use velvet—a sure sign that the summer is drawing to a close. Cotton-backed velvets, with narrow lines of white or pale tints, are on the lists for the coming season. I have seen them in very dark maroon, violet, and green, made up into plain tunics or upper skirts, open very wide in front, and worn over accordion pleated petticoats of nun's veiling to match. They are completed by a bodice with_ a small jockey behind, fastened at the waist by a few buttons, and open from the shoulder seam, so as to exhibit a wide-pleated plastron of the woollen. No style of bodice is so becoming as this. The same effect is obtained by pleating the fronts at the lower part of the shoulder seam, and then again at the waist, just in the. middle. Most soft i woollens look well made like thi3, particularly if the plastron beneath is in velvet or watered silk. Further, the sleeves may match this plastron, draperies of the woollen being attached around the armhole and gathered up on the shoulder like short baby ! sleeves.

A new way of trimming a skirt or tunic is to have a deep hem for an edging, divided from the rest of the skirt, and attached thereunto by a herring-bone stitch in thick floss silk or crewels. This work is quite within the scope of amateurs. I have seen it applied to reserla toned cloth, the silk j being black to correspond with the fiat lace trimmed panel at the aide and the scarfsash of black fringed faille. It does admir- j ably for white serge dresses, executed in creamy vilk. Lighter woollens, such as veiling and mousseline de laine, are often tucked, while that most fashionable of materials—-crepe deChiue—will be festooned with silk at the edge. Button-hole edgings are also applied to flannels—plain and striped—for tennis costumes, the material being sold in dress lengths, with each breadth ready festooned by machinery. Tucks are made of various widths. One, 2in wide above a hem of a similar breadth, will now be deemed sufficient; whereas in other instances several narrow tucks will surmount a much broader hem. In the case of figured materials the width is regulated according to the pattern; the sprigged material is folded so that the detached flowers are brought together and form a sort of border for the bottom of a skirt. Muslins, and de laines in particular, are subjected to this treatment. There are only a few among many ways of trimming skirts. Accordion pleats are maintained, and for light materials lace insertion is introduced between strips of the ; stuff before it is pleated. Gossamer and [ net that will not pleat aro gathered to the Waist, the fulness being here and there drawn together and fixed beneath knots of narrow ribbon to the silk foundation. Narrow ribbon is an important element in decoration; it is woven in and out the meshes of coarse net, and short lengths of it are inserted in bands of blonde, which compose charming ornamental arrangements for bodices as well as trimmings for the cuffs and collars. This weaving is carried into ladies' underwear petticoats of coarse cotton net are interwoven with braid until they are firm enough to give a certain amount of consistence to a skirt—a sop to the Cerberus crinoline. A woman's draperies may mould her figure pretty closely, but they must not cling limply to her ankles. Soft woollens are often edged with galloon for this purpose. Very pretty are the delicate coffee-colored and greyish green dresses of veiling, bordered with gold and silver galloons, made with a double skirt—both equally long and the upper one open in front. The bodice is generally folded over the bosom, and belted with gold round the waist; while the tight-fitting sleeves have deep bouillonnes to the elbow. For silks

often a much more severe style is adopted. I have seen gowns of faille and peau de soie, the bodicea of which have merely Bide seams, the material being fashioned to the figure by means of a few folds confined at the waist by a ribbon belt, either tied at the bnck or secured on one side, with a rosette without ends. The skirts of these—nearly plain at the front and sides, and mounted behind in small flit folds arranged like a half-furled fan—sweep the ground an inch or two. This, however, does not prevent them being worn out of doors. Cloaks, too, arc cutfuly long, though not more so than the dress. A new shape has appeared with long sleeves, that are sewn into the seams behind the arms, and passing over them are knotted in front like the ends of a scarf, fringed at the extremities ; the rest of the garment being loose and voluminous. A black cashmere cloak made in this style is lined with black and white checked silk, the fronts being turned back, so as to show the lining.—London Exchange.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ESD18891026.2.33.5

Bibliographic details

Paris Fashions., Evening Star, Issue 8048, 26 October 1889, Supplement

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1,735

Paris Fashions. Evening Star, Issue 8048, 26 October 1889, Supplement

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