London Fashion Notes Specially Written for "The Post."

Evening Post, Volume CXXVI, Issue 74, 24 September 1938, Page 23

London Fashion Notes Specially Written for "The Post."

(By Air Mail, from ?'The Post's?' London Representative.) ..,.- LONDON, August 27. Sunburn and a general air of health distinguish the returned holidaymakers who.are to be seen "catching up" with the new fashions. The shops have returned to their usual dignified atmosphere, dressed for the coming season and offering new styles, new colours, and new materials. New jewellery to go with autumn clothes includes sets of necklace, brooch and bracelet of gilt, strung thickly with coloured sequins and glass or gilt beads. Paris has decided that "she shall have sequins wherever she 'goes," and these sequin ornaments are to be worn with the darker-coloured frocks for day and evening. Tanned complexions are catered for by the- "sunburnt" pearl necklaces. These are made of fairly large pearls tinted nigger and deep cofTee

The latter look particularly well with i white summer frocks, and you will find that white is a winning fashion for your- coming summer. SMALL WAISTS. To the fashion expert who is constantly watching the trend of style, nothing is surprising. Fashions today are evolutionary rather than revolutionary, and one can see them gradually coming into prominence. But it is interesting to get the reactions of an average audience watching a display of new models. Recently at a combined show given by several designers, the styles were varied and individual to each fashion ■ house. But, as always, certain trends were to be found in all of them. A very observant man, although quite removed from the world of clothes. ! noticed this and asked me, "Who decides these trends originally?" A difficult question to answer, for they seem to get into the atmosphere with each changing season. You cannot pin them down to any one designer in London, Paris, or New York, for all three cities contribute to th^originality of modern fashions, although it is still usual to give Paris the credit of creation. The "fitted" line is one of these almost universal trends, with an emphasis on a small waist. As with all modern fashions, there are a dozen ways of exploiting this small waist, but it persists in day dresses, suits, coats, and, of course, evening gowns. . j A deep, swathed girdle, pulled closely above and below the natural line, accentuates the curves of hips and bust, and the waist, and looks much | narrower by comparison. On the very slender figure, fullness from a yoked bodice is gathered into the waistline and slightly bloused above, and this has the same effect. A tight-fitting

jacket above a very much-flared skirt is another waist-defining trick, or a narrow skirt below a fitting jacket that is very jflared on the hips draws attention to the small waist above the flared peplum. I have sketched a model which should suit almost any figure to create an illusion of slimness about the waist. The short-sleeved bolero top above a very full skirt gathered into a deep, fitted waist belt. The contrasting colour of the blouse brings out all the detail of the design, which is suitable for soft , fine woollens or silk materials. FRONT FULLNESS. If you do not care for. fullness all round, the full panel in front is very fashionable again, This may be introduced by a gathered apron, or a finelypleated panel inset or swinging loose outside the skirt. Bodices are still draped, criss-cross, or with fullness drawn to one shoulder or under the arm, and usually a high neckline. The boned collar has made an appearance arid although it looks distinctly uncomfortable aft r years of freedom about the neck, it is smart enough to be worn by some' brave spirits who will try anything once.. Some bodices have fullness coming from the shoulder line or yoke and blousing over the belt. Yokes are characteristic in the new dresses; suits, and coats which strongly reflect the 1900 influence pervading so many of this year's styles. •....,..: y .-..•■. SMART DETAILS. Many of these yokes are transparent, even on "iightweight woollen dresses, which have lace yokes or openwork faggot stitch, or cut-out designs Other! sheer yokes of ch'ffon have a true lover's knot of velvet ribbon on each! side of the front. A true lover's knot of cord with tasselled ends decorates j the tops of sleeves. Patch pockets of fox on a smart black town jacket (no other fur). Pastel-coloured shirts, have high, upstanding pointed collars, with a dark ribbon tied stock-fashion, with small bow in front—awfully smart with a spring tailormade. ■ ■ ■ ■ Details are very much in the fashion news. Unusual pockets put on at odd angles, odd combinations of'materials, odd fastenings on both dresses and jackets give great individuality to the more conservative models. Just a splash of fur at the edge of a three-quarter, straight, narrow jacket above a short, pleated skirt will give a town ensemble the. 1939 chic. E. RUTH SIBLEY.