CLOAKING FOR WINTER

Evening Post, Volume CXXV, Issue 100, 30 April 1938, Page 19

CLOAKING FOR WINTER

Shaggy furs that are to be so popular are attractive in their own particular way. Bear skin in its great shapeless masses can only be expected to charm for its lavishness, its warmth, and comfort. Personally, however, I think the occasions on which it is right and reasonable wear are all too few, •'and I am overjoyed to notice that already our designers are working out their always-clever compromises for the mere woman who does not enjoy elaborate extremes. '

The great bulk of these shaggy cloaks certainly makes contrast with and accents the slender line of undersuit. It is undoubtedly, also, why hats have become negligible. Recently charming at a display was a brief straight hanging jacket of bear, black and shining. But it was only interesting for me in relation to the sheer blue suit of broadcloth worn under. Pockets were flat, the waist modelled and beltless, and three lions'.heads in blue-black crystal were the central fastenings. With it

a scarf that bound the head in great flat folds tied under the chin in a cravat. z Silver fox is used for, full-length garments. They are heavy and altogether ' phapeless. Their interest Ues more ii\ their novelty and the fact that they \fte expensive. Coloured belts, though

one sees them often, and in bro.ad strong leather, do not assist towards elegance. ' Far more successful is Schiaparelli s idea of combining material and fur. Recently he showed a three-quarter coat of golden seal, in collaboration, rather unusually, with black broadcloth. This ran in a TStrip from neck to near waist and centrally and was decorated with three enormous convex discs that pretended to be buttons. Slits in the fur for pockets fell away on either side and the neck was finished with the flattest of little-girl _ collars. Hats can soar with such a design and this mannequin was crowned by a black cloth beret, peaked rigid and high, and worn at an angle. The fez, in felt, in suede, in cloth, or in velvet, is popular headwear for either variety; One accompanied a coat of full length that hung in great folds, zipping up the front, and boasting enormous sleeves that gathered in to cuffs. PROPHETIC LINES. It will be wise to remember these outlines. For season after season I have noticed in Paris how that the designers" fur inspirations come ultimately to be worked out in lesser* materials. Astrakhan is already becoming a happy alternative and it worked well in collaboration with dull-surfaced cloth.

It is apparently a season, for contrasts. And actually, apart from the fun of indulging one's pet colour schemes, there is real joy in'being rid of the fear that one is not perfectly matched up.

Strips of fabric are used in every conceivable way, both to follow a new and interesting vogue and to reduce the weight of the average fur garment.

Cloaks, which are going to be extraordinarily popular again, are put together exceedingly dexterously by this means, the intervening fabric strips flaring to hem to allow of necessary width. Even newer will be the strips that are closely pleated to unfold, con-certina-wise, with every movement. The sketch I have made for you illustrates the regal charm of such a vogue. Note how the shoulders lift and the collar line, though clipped, continues unbroken.