London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXIX, Issue 134, 8 June 1935, Page 19

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written tor "tin Post."

' LONDON, April 11. The great dressmaking houses in London are already thronged with clients, for the influx o£ visitors is exceeding the most optimistic forecast. Midseason collections confirm the best of the early fashions, which, in the case of Molyneaux, consist of simple day clothes and magnificent creations for evening wear. The general silhouette for the daytime is a slim, straight fitting skirt of medium length, the fullness usually achieved by deep, inverted pleats, back and front, or a slight flare at the hem. ' in contrast, any width or trimming on a day dress is usually expressed in the bodice or coat, and the general effect of the. figure is to taper down tt> the feet. Capes and loose-back, short coats and caped sleeves on long coats all help to give the effect of a brilliant flower on a slender stem, for colours are clear and decided, and London women .are getting away . from ' the "dark street dress" complex, which has persisted for so long. , BEAUTIFUL FABRICS. Materials are immensely important, and rough surfaces are still very fashionable. While we are turning ,to cloque crepes and rough mixtures of linen and wool, you can indulge in the lovely velvets and cellophane woollens which have been such a feature of our recent season. Velvet has'been- chosen for every type of dress, Sumptuous, uncrushable velvets, rich in colour and texture, make the loveliest frocks, for smart evening wear, whether it is used for the ball gown or the simple little frock worn for dining at home. The velvet afternoon ensemble was the favourite choice during the autumn and winter seasons,-many of which were made to do double duty for afternoon or informal evening wear. To these were added a subtle glittering touch, such as a collar or sash, or scarf bow of gold or silver lame. In the case of a velvet'suit very often the blouse or short tunic was made 'of lame in metal shot with a complementary colour. The model I; have sketched shows a good type Of luxurious simplicity that has many of the newest fashion points. Slim outline from the hips, contrasting with the! flowing lines of the cape. This was made in black velvet, and the demure Peter Pan collar and swathed saslv were in black and silver, lame. Add a velvet blouse to your tailored suit 'in a contrasting colour, and,note, hqw_becoming this, is. Tweed sv^its have been worn -with

tailored velvet shirts In a darker colour,than the tweed, stone-coloured tweed with black; .brown, navy, or wine velvet being particularly good combinations. Light woollen ensembles wjth the coats lined with a dark velvet is another fashionable idea that adds charm as well as comfort. I saw this idea extended into a summer model this morning.- The coat was made of heavy white shantung lined and faced back with eire and with plaited eire secured-by a qarved crystal buckle. Woollens t that, have a guttering thread of cellophane woven in the. surface are sufficiently decorative for elaborate gowns, but being serviceable and supple they are extremely smart for very simple frocks that will be worn a great deal.; .' ''. : Moss green woollen with a faint glint of gold made a charming little house,

frock plainly tailored and the high neckline linked in front with dull gold buttons, a gold buckle at the waist and small gold buttons linking the shapedout sleeves at the wrists. NECKLINES THAT DOMINATE Although there is great variety , in necklines this year, they are usually so distinctive as to be the centre of attention. There are still 'many forms of the high, .muffled line; particularly smart and unusual is the gauged frill —with most of the fullness under the chin —which stands up.round the neck of several models by the .famous Schiaparelli. This is often achieved by < a draw string or cord, or ribbon which is tied in a bow in front. Still high but not so muffling is the neck-| line finished with- several rows of ' gauging at the base of the. throat, and i this may finish with, a bow back or, front, or a row of buttons down to the | waistline. , , - I All sorts of scarves are draped, tied,

and buttoned as a 1 finish td- the "neck? and turn - down, pleated frills of the various widths are also popular.

Sometimes. these pleated frills continue down . the front of the bodice, forming a jabot, for tlje-jabot-front either in' frills 'or drapery revers is a favourite, finish for the fronts of bod-

ice's and' blouses. The square neckline is the newest of the lower lines. This also may -be edged with soft frills, -or a plain ■ line of pique or organdie on a dark dress, to give freshness.

Many- sports blouses 'have a rather high square neckline, .and I' particularly liked an unusual squarenecked jumper made of angora woollen fabric in plain pale colours which was finished at the neck, hem, and sleeves with close blanket stitch in a dark colour to match a dark leather belt and a row of smallish dark buttons down the back. < E. RUTH SIBLEY.