Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXV, Issue 123, 27 May 1933, Page 9

Paris in the Mirror

Written for "Th« Port" by G«rm«ln*.

PARIS, April 5. Do you remember, readers .mine, in the "Blue Bird," when Tytyl and Mytyl realised that "there aro no dead?" Twist the magic diamond and realise yourself that "there arc no fashions"! We dress nowadays to suit ourselves. No one dares to dictate to us what wo shall wear. Some years ago we discovered that berets were becoming, though yperhaps not very comfortable. We have worn them ever since. Not only do wo wear them, but our daughters .. wear them, our middle-aged aunts, and' even sometimes our elderly mothers. The greatness of our Paris milliners resides in the fact that they recognise this semi-uncon-scious halt in the evolution of dress and that they allow us our berets which we slap so becomingly on the side of our heads so long as they present it to us over and over again in their own guise. And they certainly present it most attractively. Our heads are already crowned by tho ; porkpio hat. This is one of the new chapeaux which have to be worn straight on the brow. I have forgotten to mention the new microscopic "clown" hat which is tilted over one car. This hat looks like the outcome of a scoffing thought. It is as if fashion has said: "Silly creatures! If they want to look ridiculous they deserve to wear the cap of a; clown." The clown hat is absurd, grotesque; not one woman in twenty looks well in it. The only nice thing about it is its brim, which is smartly turned back to tho crown on one side and slips down to. the ear on the other. ' .1 COLOUR. Colour is as much a part of fashion as any line or cut, and takes just as much wearing, for we arc none of us chameleons. ' Twice a year we arc confronted with new shades. There is a variety, to be sure, but when Juck, being what it is, gives you tho one thing you must have in the one colour you cdunot wear, what aro, you to do? Well, cosmetics, plenty of them, a little study and a knowledge of how to uso them, and the day can be saved. That was not always possible. Not so very long ago, to "paint your face" was a mark of fastness, if not downright sin and sorrow, to your family. In those days beauty was in tho hands of Nature, and there was not much a woman could do but to take her face for what it was and like it. If you were sallow you could not wear' yellow without looking jaundiced, or brown without looking dirty and unwashed. Green was unthinkable, and •thero was nothing left but to wear black and take cod liver oil. But cosmetics are no longer "paint." They are just as necessary as a comb and brushy and it is simply a question of choosing the right sort. 'Most colours reflect themselves, adding lights to the . complexion, often alien flights, and theso must be'offset if.qnly to mainaiii the status quo. Some colours draw the natural shade out of a face. This must be replaced. The hard' bright colours mako tho features seem vague and insignificant. Here aeeents arc needed: brilliant lipstick, rouge, or mascara. / NOW FOB THE COLOURS THEMSELVES. Neutral shades promise to como in with a rush this season. Grey in several shades is a strong favourite, beige is another. ,And here ]et mo say that beigo depends more on cosmetics than almost any other colour, for it practically gets into your face, if you get me. However, with proper make-up it is an easy colour to wear, because you can choose endless accessories to accompany it. Black is the colour iv which a woman looks pale and interest-,, ing. And with black you can work up something -very■■■■■nice with a light powder and a deep lipstick. White,is not only: the best,"background for ,b sun tan, but makes a wonderful setting for the flower type of girl. White is very popular for evening dresses, and ill chiffon, lace, and georgette we see it a great deal. Laco dresses, and especially those of Chantilly, are becoming increasingly popular, and white. crepe do chine and marocain dresses will be the chic thing to wear as the season advances. A now red is being launched, something between wine and a raspberry/ shade. Plaid, the ; Parisienne's old love, is with us again. We shall see enough plaids this year, faithfully copied from the colours of tho elans, to supply tho whole of Scotland. . DETAILS OF THE MODE. After having visited so many of the fashion showings in Paris, I am now

in a position to give some of the details which 'will help to make the clothes interesting and important. Euching and ruffles on very plain evening frocks aro among the most attractive' details. Euched capes—in troducing a very pretty new decolletee —niched hems, and niching outlining the decolletage arc being introduced by loading dressmakers. : • Blouses arc going to be ruffled, and crisp tulle jackets aro going to introduce a curious old-fashioned touch on our very modern frocks, for the full elbow sleeves aro gathered at the shoulders and very often tho front is finished with a stiff, perky butterfly bow. Belts are almost non-existent,

and the narrowest of bands, mere strings in fact, of chiffon'are tied about the waistline, which tends to remain about the normal.' Buching also swings from the herns of some gowns and forms a scarf collar under which the Vtiro back shows. Other novelties are the high throttled, neck threaded through with a diamond neckband on backless evening dresses, starched white crocheted blouses to be worn with, evening dresses of silk mousseline qr crepe, huge double hooks and double-headed arrow fastenings iustead of buttons. . WAXED SATIN. Fine-knitted cotton: is being used for collars and cuffs, and there are some interesting crocheted vests on day dresses, with scarf ends at the neck which are tied and tucked in apparent-, ly, and give somewhat the effect of a neat,. low stock. Waxed satiri and. lacquered satin is being much used, for afternoon and evening * dresses. ' The best-dressed Parisiennes are this season sheathing themselves in waxed or lacquered satin. Tho capelet will contin'uo to show off shapely shoulders^ , Now that .feathers are used oil afternoon and evening' dresses,, they tlon't trim hats anymore.]. It. is possible to have too much of a good thing; nothing is ever run tc death in Paris, and the moment things begin to get turbulent they are disciplined back to their proper place.