GARDENING NOTES.

Evening Post, Volume XCVI, Issue 12, 13 July 1918, Page 10

GARDENING NOTES.

(By "Experience.")

THE FLOWER GARDEN,

\yhon July arrives one knows tlmt spriiigl is approaching—that it is time to be getting things in'order. The Evening Post circulates in many districts, and though those places which may lie termed its own district are aJI blessed with a mild climate, yot soil conditions va.ry so much that one set of directions, as Tepardfi time- for various operations, cannot equally apply. Some judgment is necessary to fit advice with local conditions. Generally speaking, the condition of tho soil is tho chief thing- to consider. If that is good frost is seldom so severe as to require special consideration, except, of course, as it relates to tho cultivation of certain classes of plants. Good drainage is nearly all that is wanted to make all places in the radius'now being 1 thought of equal or nearly so. Good drainage, however, cannot always be secured. In certain extensive flat areas it certainly bamiot bo got. In such places planting, particularly of shrubs and trees of an evergreen character, should be left until tho sun haa heat enough to warm the soil and the water-table has lowered. September and October are good months to plant in such places, but in many places it might prove disastrous to delay planting till.then. Deciduous shrubs and trees are not 60 accommodating in this respect, and should be planted either before they show signe of now growih or, at the latest, before they have actually made growth, otherwise the young growth would bo injured, or at best be impaired in strength. Lilacs, mock orange, viburnum plicatum, deutsias, etc., which 6tart growth early, Tequire planting at once. Roses are about as hard to kill or injure as almost anything in the plant world., yet it does them no good to plant late nor to prune late. ,It is advisable to get all roses planted this month, or, if that cannot be done, at least lift them and heel them in. Lifting checks growth, and will prevent early breaking of buds. It is bad practice to leave pruning till late, for the shoots are generally shortened to buds that are imperfectly formed, not fully developed, and it is hotter to give them time, so that they gain strength by gradual swelling. Roses that aro lifted now should bo pruned at once, and be well shortened; one or two buds only should be left on each shoot, and these, if there are many, should bo reduced in number. The exact number to be left cannot be stated, as each bush may require different treatment. Yearling bushes from a. nursery will be furnished with one, two, or three shoots, so that when thoso are cut back to a. bud or two there is very little left of them; but that is a,s it'should- be, .and a good growth will follow, which it would not if the shoots were left longer.

The writer saw the other day an old favourite that should be in every garden, Hardenbergia monophylla alba, in full flower, a very beautiful plant, also a comparatively recent introduction, Genista fragrantissima in full flower. The latter is a member of the broom family, with elepcant trusses of yellow flowers, deliciously fragrant. Now is a good time to plant hea-ths, the while flowered tree-like arborea is just soming- out. Wilmoreana, cruenta, Riitumnalis, and molanthera are nearly past. These-, as well as the whito webbieyana, and pink honteyana are autumn and winter. flowers, and specially valuable on that account. When planting heaths, it should bo remembered that their roots are fine- as hairs, consequently they quickly perish if the soil becomes too dry. Also that soil may become dry though the situation may not bo a dry one, if the soil j is of a binding character this may happen, because it is impossible to break it up when a plant is in possession, and it may run together and become very hard in dry weather. Such soil should be improved before such plants as heath, azaleas, rhododendrons, and similar plants with hair-like roots are set out in it. Turfy loam' and sand, burnt earth, and moderate quantities of ashes from rubbish fires are suitable material to, use, and summer mulching is a great help. Kalmia latifola, tho American calico bush, is considered by some to be the most beautiful o£ all hardy flowering shrubs. I notice it is just now beginning to send up its trusses, though they will not open for a long time. Garrya eliptica is a desirable evergreen shrub, just now it is clad with its curious streamers of flowers; they hang pendant in a graceful manner; it is one of the most remarkable of flowering shrubs. Rhododendrons arenow olad with'flowor buds, givingl promise of gTeat beauty. These gorgeous plants do fairly well where the soil is fairly strong, and does not dry out too much in summer. The best place for them is on a, slope which has higher ground above it. so that water will erravitate down to it. The' soil being well trenched so that tho descending water will percolate through -the subsoil, will keep the roots cool, and capillary action will draw moisture up to the roots during dry weather, such situations is where rhododendrons do well. Herbaceous plants of all desoriptipna may be planted now, a garden furnished with a fair number of flowering shrubs and herbaceous perennials is always attractive. Polyanthus and primroses are showing a few flowers, they transplant well even now. Primula malachoides is a wonderful plant, flowering nearly all the year round, it is perfectly hardy, aaid has been flowering all winter; a few degrees of frost does not hurt it, easily increased by divisions, a good stock can quickly be got from a plant or two. . THE GREENHOUSE. Adiantum ferns that have been rested may now have the old fronds cut oft. Give them n good watering, and y\&ce them where they will get plenty of light. When the new fronds ha.ye pushed ui> about one inch will be the time to repot such ns need it.- Plants that have not been dried off, but the fronds of which have got shabby, should also be cut over. In tho case of these, "as they have been watered all along, they should have little or none till the now fronds ha.ye pushed up a bit. Various hardy bulbs that have been potted up, freesias, lachenalias, narcissi, and hyacinths, should be placed in a warm position where they will have plenty of light. Early in August will be time enough to sow 6eed of ooleus, begonia, gloxinia, etreptocarpus, etc.; anyone not having a heated house should prepare manure for a hotbed, for theee things cannot be successfully raised without a little artificial heat. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Things to sow: Peas, broad beans, carrot, lettuce, radish, cabbage, cauliflower, red beet, celery. If peas have not yeti been sown a dwarf should be sown for first use, such as Richard Scddon, English Wonder, or Little Marvel. At the same time a taller kind—Sherwood, Stratagem, To Aroha, or Sutton'3 Dwarf Defiance. There ore many others perhaps_ better on some soils; it is advisablo and interestingl to tost different varieties. Celery must bo sown under glass, even if only a sheet I of glass covering a box placed in. a warm corner. Sow a turnip-rooted beet for I early use. Plant rhubarb, shallots, garlic, horseradish, and various herbs, cabbage, and_ cauliflower. Cauliflowers of the early varieties, and some of the cabbages, arc prono to be tricky in. 6pring-, and bolt to j flower before their time. Anything that encourages growth combats that tendency. The soil they are planted in should be fairly rich and well broken up, and if the surface 6ets, it should be loosened after heavy rain. When tho plants get a good 6tart, a teaspoonful of nitrate of soda to each plant acts liko magic in forcing growth. Gooseberrry and currant bushes, and I abo loganberries, should bo planted a.t once,