LADIES' COLUMN

Evening Post, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 151, 27 June 1914, Page 13

LADIES' COLUMN

LONDON FASHION NOTES STRIPES AND TARTANS. A GAY EFFECT. ! '(MAM OUtl OWN CORRESPONDENT.) LONDON, 15th May. One sometimes inclines to the notion that Joseph's "coat of many colours" would be a pallid and colourless thing if placed beside some of the season's Bayadere striped silks and gabardines. Tho colours are marvellous. As often as not a voice and shoulder top of gaba-rdine consisting- of stripes of orange and mauvo and scarlet is to be found ou % smart Eton jacket modal; the double akirfc effect is characteristic of every other dress just now, and as ofton_ as not the upper story is of striped fabric, surmountingr as a half-length tunic the underdress of plain silk. In a smaJler way, touches are introduced a 9 collars and cuffs, and sashes on 6ombre suits, while as for blouses, there are many mado entirely of unrelieved stripeo, tho material sometimes cut on the cross and sometimes on tho straight, co that unusual effects appear about the same model. There is a novelty in tho form of a sleeveless jacket, and tho sleeves that appear out of tha braid-bound armholes are of Ray stripes; remove tho coat, and it will bo found that these sleeves form part of 'the scheme of the dress bodice, which is mostly of tho bayadere stripes. Sunshades are bordered with tho same, aJid some hats, if not wholly of striped ribbon or satin or silk, have crown or brim of it. And ever &o many of the new and smart capefciinado outwardly of the quietest tone of^iSffetas or fine cloth, have a gorgeous lining of stripes. There are tartan silks, too, and theso are of just as daringly-mingled colour schemes, and are used lavishly. A tunic of tartan silk is usual over an underskirt of plain colour, and the double flounce effect is noticeable when the coat is worn, this latter being of the same matorial and colour as the underskirt. The tartan tunic can be edged round with coarso lace of string colour or black, and tho coat can have its apparent armholfij a very deep-cut one, similarly edged with the lace. A Derby-day dress consists of an underskirt of pale rose taffetas, with coreage and three-quarter tunic of taffetas silk in a plaid weave of colours, pink and black ; this tunic falls with liberal fullness all round tho edge, and is sl'ghrly caught up at one* side and finished with buttons; the short tailored coat is of silk to match the underskirt, a pattern with front well put away to show the tartan coraago, with buttons on one side and buttonholes on the other ; sleeves are long and finished with a pointed cuff so deep that it extends as high as the elbows, 'and as for the collar, that is of course a_ high . one at the back, with a plisso frill of black net falling from it. A FRENCH OPINION. Writing from Paris a correspondent tells that stripes are still in high favour, and that at all the places whoro tho welldressed gather together there will bo some striped drosses. "Tho most attractive stripes I have seen are those in soft colours and in materials which are copies of old ones. At one time we used them chiefly for furniture coverings. Wo bought real 18th century dresses for chair covers, we paid absurdly high prices for thorn, and now wo buy copies of this material both for our chairs and for our dresses. A striped silk in tonos of green and mauve, or in tender blues, or in old rose, with a tunic and little coat or oape of plain silk, looks very dainty for a•dressed' occasion, and black and whito stripes, brown and white, or strpes in the same colour but of different Rlmdes, with a plain coat and a neat little hat, look as well ac anything to bo soan this Bprin«r. In cloth, too, stripes look well, but perhaps small checks or dull tartans look bettor. Thoy are > always mixed with plain material, and unless a woman is very tall sho should keep tho checks and stripes small and let the tartan bo 6ubdued." Coats and skirts, quUe simple suits, of plain cloth or serge, arc smartened by having a turnod-down collar, neat cuffs, and a shaped waistband of stripe^ Bayadero eilk, while those who like pla'cls best aro having revers and collar and bolt attached to a coat that is of plain stuff, while tho skirt corresponds with the check that trims the coat. Tailormades displaying a combination of plain and plaid fabrics seom to have taken a new lease of life, and many changes aro rung based upon this sylglo idea. Most of these belted coats^'are <5f tho basquo variety, bat it is only occasionally that the basque is set in full kilts, or that it is stiffened round the edge to eland out— thus treated the costume immediately becomes expensive, for these features belong especially to the new season. Our old friend, the quite simple coat and skirt, seems to bo rather out of date just now. Something more elaborate and original and less well fitting meets with the demand. THE TAILOR-MADE SILHOUETTE. One special note of the modern tailormade is its looseness, especially about the coat itself and the waist; another i 6 the lack of trimness about the shoulders, for meet of the costumes have tho kimono type of sleeve, and this of course is auything'but close-fitting. Very new, appearing_ from below the bolero type of coat, which terminates in two points below th« waist-line, is tho tunic, usually consisting , of the finest i kilts, reaching down to within nine inches of tho ankle; this theme is of ample proportions, and is an attractive feature; below it, to the ankle, however, comes that trouser tightness which makes movement so diifioult and unsightly. Yet this is one of tho latest features of the tailor-made, and whether the upper portion takes the form of some variety of cape or some species of up-to-date bolero, this 6kirt is seen. Variations in detail of course there are, such as plain panel effect down tho front decorated with a lino of velvet-covered buttons, but the pleats are everywhere else. Accordion pleating is in again, and a three-tier skirt consisting of flounces finely accordion pleated fs one of the modern examples of this treatment; taffetas is the fabric _in most instances. This flounced skirt is surmounted by a bolero whoso sleeves are eet in at the armhole; they arc close-fitting to tho elbow, _ where they terminate, and the finish immediately above and below consists of a series of small Bouncings or frills. These frill-finished half-length sleeves are found on some of tho smartest of the model gowns which have crossed from Paris. Some dress and blouse sleeves are extremely long over the hand, and the length is> emphasised by the "cracker" frill that finishes them. This arrangement has one frill falling over the hand, the other pointing upward, and a band of velvet divides ihe ' CLUMSY IN APPEARANCE The tailor-made skirt which has its tunic introduced _ on a level with the hips is cluins>y in _ appearance. It is set on with _ gathering surmounted by a I heading ; this heading stands up like a ! frill all round tho hips, and is -a very inartistic arrangement. Any_ means seems legitimate just now for bringing about excessive width round the hips and excessive tightness round the feet. _ . Many a full skirt is accompanied by something that is neither a capo nor a coal, but is a _ cross between the two. The fronts consist of little els© than two wide bands, which are slit off from tho frontE just below tho shoulders ; theso two bands are crossed in front like tho bands on a golf cape, and disappear behind. The back of this garment is a sort of jacket, yet it also 6uggosto a cape in its fall; it appears at either side-front, and is cut louger in the middle of the back. Sleeves are of wrist-length, closefitting, and seamless as to shoulder; the neck is finished with a high upstanding Medici collar of velvet, and the throat is of course quite bare. COLOURED COATEES. Provided theie bo borno warm weather later, there should be a great display of whito dresses, notably of fine embroidered voile, lawn, lace, tullo, moussoliue for "high days," and of ratine and cotton voilo and cotton cropes for "holidays." The former will almost, without oxcep- j tioaj be completed by eomo kiad o||

coatee or cape of taffetas in a, pretty colour. Once introduced, there are limitless possibilities in tho arrangement. Without exception there is the very open throat, tho easy fullness drooping aver the waistbelt, and gonorous gathering or pleatihg to form the basque; only a. slight draping characterises the skirte, though some have a double flounce crossing midway about the hips, flounces that aro more often ou th(? slant than straight. The general effect is ono of simplicity, and popularity is already well assured. Such dresses can be made at home at very small cosJ. When only a mero touch of colour is wanted op a dress of white cropon or ratine, this is obtained by using buttons of ratine that is coloured— -japonica pink is a pretty tone, lemon-yellow is a fashionable one; and other little hints of colour may bo obtained by using a buttonhole stitohery to outline the frill tha-b finishes the neck and tho front. Skirts of linen in wide two-colour stripes aro completed with email cutaway coats of plain colour. In one instanco strawberry pink and white striped ninon do soio was given a coatee of strawberry-pink silk pop. Tin, finished with a wßite muslin^ col 1m beautifully embroidered, and dainty cuffs to match. AIRY AND FRAGILE. Already for the evening there are to be ceon dresses entirely of _ tulle, and_ in all probability ,the same delicate material will bo used for day dresses with the arrival of summer. Silk net is used to a great ex* tent, too, notably for tho bouffany wired tunic. A now Paris fanoy is for the tulle dress to be of one colour, including several tones of it, the graduation being from very dark to quite light tone. Some features of the tullo evening dress are : tho sleeveless corsage (or if sleeve* aro thero thoy are wispy and transparent), the corsage that barely has any existence either at the back or in front, tho tulle sash with its outspreading butterfly bow, and tho floral garniture. Information from Paris tells that flowers are becoming' popular onco moro, one notablo Parisian couturio requisitioning long trails from the shoulder to the hem of the ekirt, little clusters and sprays of flowers being also extensively_ employed to catch up_ diaphanous draperies. Corsages to evening gowns are growing smaller by degrees and beautifully leas, and sleeves of any description are now conspicuous by their absence.