THE EXHIBITION.

Evening Post, Volume LII, Issue 168, 7 December 1896, Page 6

THE EXHIBITION.

CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES. W. AND J. STAPLES AND CO. We had occasion previously to say that the importance of an exhibit rested on its value from the point of view of a New Zealand industry, and of its completeness and excellence in detail. Judged from this standpoint there is no better display in the Exhibition than that of Messrs. W. and J. Staples, the well-known and old-established firm of wholesale boot, shoe, and llpper manufacturers. It is an extensive trade they do in their line, employing 150 hands, all colonial-born men and youth, most of whom have served their apprenticeship with the firm, which commenced business here in 1873. Except for a few lines "to fill up and vary the show cases," as Mr. Staples put it, the exhibit is devoted to a display of goods made in the new species of leather called " chrome wallaby," but registered by Messrs. Staples and Co. as " Kangarette." As the name implies this leather is prepared from the skins of the kangaroo and wallab}', and the tanning is a special process rendering the finished leather impervious to water, soft as velvet, tough as steel, and of attractive appearance. The goods which the firm show in the Exhibition are an object-lesson as to the workmanship of this kind that can be turned out in New Zealand. " They are fit to exhibit anywhere," says Mr. Staples, "and, if the Paris Exposition was only close at hand in point of date — not distance — I should show them there," Well, for the sake of the colony, we wish he could, or would. The goods certainly look to the ordinary eye as " good goods " as could well be imagined, with a finish about them not easily to be surpassed, we should say. Of course, pains have been taken to show these Kangarette goods in an attractive manner— no light task when we say that there are about 100 different kinds of boots and shoes displayed, from the child's shoe to the man's "broad welt Cookham. Special features in the lines for men are the dancing or Court shoe, the shooting boot, walking boots and shoes in black and tan, and a patent by the firm in the shape of a cycling shoe, which provides for ample ventilation for the foot, and a grip across the instep, having the effect of giving the shoe great spring and elasticity in its work on the pedals. > For ladies there are the daintiest of "lace-ups," and a feature in a, Balmoral golf boot, with kangarette, golosh, and ooze calf top in tan. Then n c have the " cycling" shoe for ladies, the same as for men, only lighter in make, more tasty in design, anil buttoning at the side instead of the " grip" buckle ; walking shoes, also of American style — pointed toes — and an excellent line in young girls' Balmoral button boots, and also a line of patent leather golosh with the chrome leather upper, a very pretty dress shoe. So many are the lines, indeed, and all of first-class merit, that we can only indicate a few, with the hope that visitors to the Exhibition will not fail to go and see for themselves. An inspection will repay them in the knowledge gained as to New Zealand resources in this connection. Some idea of the trade done by the Messrs. Staples and Co. m their- " Kangarette" goods may be obtained when we say that the firm cuts up 30 dozen of the skins per week, and since the introduction to the market of the leather some few months ago has sold no less than 10,000 pairs of " kangarette " boots and shoes. The skins, we may add, are not tanned here, but by Kennon & Sons, of Melbourne, specially for the firm. The sole stitching is done by a special machine called the "Goodyear," which turns out work equal to hand-sewing. Enough has been said to indicate the superior nature of the exhibit, and we have to heartily congratulate the Messrs. Staples & Co. on their display and enterprise. A. LINDSAY. Here, again, though nofc so extensive, we find an excellent exhibit, of a very Rimilar character to that just described. A difference exists, however, and it is an important one. In Mr. Lindsay's very well arranged and handsome show-wise the goods are all handsewn, and capital workmanship they display. The masculine eye-is at once captivated by a poem in riding boots, and on enquiry the owner of the aforesaid eye will be informed that there are " polo" boots, with Russian leather fronts and box cloth legs. The " polo" man, however, may prefer enamelled cow-hide fronts to the Russian leather, and if so, there is an equally good pair of these shown. Or, it may be, the man is a sportsman of another colour, preferring the gun and his own legs to the polo pony. Then, if so, we com~ mend to his notice the shooting boots of horse-hido or "Crupp" leather, a really splendid make- of boot. A lighter boot of the same class is for the male pedestrian, and he will also find himself catered for with shoes in black and tan goods, such as the man who wishes to be well shod will wear and be thankful. v The ladies, too, will find much in the exhibit to excite their admiration and their longing, from the peculiarly "fetching" hunting boots in Russian calf to the daintiest walking shoes in the new Kangarette leather. Then there is a specially attractive line in the of a golf boot, with " morocco seal" leg and " Crupp" golosh; also, patent leather boots

with glace legs, another showy line, in either lace-ups or buttoned boots. Altogether, this is a sterling exhibit, the finish and workmanship deserving the highest praise. Mr. Lindsay has done well in illustrating the perfection to which handsewn leather work has been brought in the colony. BING, HARRIS & CO. This well-known Dunedin wholesale firm devotes a somewhat small but very complete and showy exhibit to t its peculiar manufacture of boots, &c, known as the " Arrow " brand. These have a wide reputation for wear and durability. The "Wellington agency was established eight years ago, and now does, we are informed, a large and steadily increasing trade.; so much so, indeed, that in order to cope with the demand for these boot manufactures the plans are now well forward for additions to the warehouse here, giving more room in the boot department. The factory, known as the " Arrow brand" factory, is at Hillside, Dunedin, and contains the very latest machinery for sewn work, including the " Goodyear" machine, which rivals the hand sewing. Origiually only the strong leather goods were manufactured, such as were suitable for the rough roads of the goldfields and bush, but now all the lighter lines are made with such success as to successfully rival the imported goods. The output includes 350 regular lines, and 150 hands are constantly employed. Both colonial and imported leathers are used for the '•uppers" wprk, but nearly all the " sole" leather is colonial made, and specially tanned by the " Vinolia " process for the firm. Featuresoftheexbibitsmaybebrieflystatcd as the strong pegged crupp shooting boot, also made in kip and other leathers ; the tanned calf boots with " toothpick " toes ; and an Old English broad - welt boot. Then there is a fashionable* dress boot, with patent leather golosh and glace top ; a special line, is men's dancing pumps — quite a new departure, only made possible by the Goodyear machine ; some ladies' dancing pumps in bronze, white, black, glace, and patent leather. A few excellent samples of ladies' lace-ups, button boots and shoes in the most fashionable styles, and those made on the American or sharp-pointed lasts, complete a really fine exhibit. J. E. EVANS. At the Exhibition of 1885, held in "Wellington, and colonial in its scope, Mr. J. E. Evans was granted three awards for his display of saddlery, harness, andleather goods generally. On the present occasion, there being no awards, Mr. Evans confines his exhibit, which is a first-class one of its kind, to a display of the portmanteaus, Gladstone bags, &c, which he makes with such finish and thoroughness, and that is how he comes to be classed as a subsection of the "clothing" division, these goods being accessories to clothing. Mr. J. E. Evans started business here in 1851, and the excellence of the manufactures he turns out from his business premises on Lanibton-quay is so well and widely known that we need not enlarge thereon. Suffice it, then, to describe the exhibit as it appears in the Exhibition Building, merely remarking that when such sterling goods of the kind can be, and are> locally produced at fair and reasonable prices, the imported article of the same class is a superfluity. Take, for example, a portmanteau shewn here which is made entirely of solid leather, that is, all cow-hide leather. The traveller could not wish for a stronger or a better made article. Or, take another sample fitted with expanding — perhaps collapsible would be the better term — sides, which has this great convenience in its connection, that you can make it of avail for carrying a great quantity of articles, or for stowing in small space if only partly filled. The largest portmanteau shown is 30in in length, of particularly strong solid leather, and roomy enough to hold sufficient articles for a trip round the world. Then, to suit •all tastes, Mr Evans shows some of lesser value in sheepskin, and a special line where the leather is drawn over the ends and rivetted with brass clamps giving a showy appearance and adding strength. Take, also, the lines in Gladstone bags, equal in every way to anything imported, but made of both colonial and English leather. Some of these are printed in imitation of hog's skin, alligator and snake skins, for the tastes of men vary even as the climate of the Empire City, and it may be a man's disposition may be summed up by his predilection in Gladstone bags. "Who shall say ? They are of first-class make, and splendidly fitted up internally. Some of them are furnished* with nickel name plates, a very useful adjunct for the traveller. They are made, too, in different shades of tan from chocolate to cream, and these are illustrative of the variety of material kept in stock by Mr. Evans for the requirements of his trade. A special feature here deserves mention 'in the shape of a hunting kit bag, which by hinged rods at the' sides opens out into a stiffened parallelogram shape, facilitating hasty packing. Otherwise it is of similar shape to the Gladstone bag, and as portable. Then we have samples of the ordinary handbags, the Hartington bag, the small office, or brief, bags— one a very fine sample in English leather, with excellent fittings, and leather-lined. Some ladies' travelling trunks are also shown, and hat-boxes in solid leather and japanned cloth. All these have been made to suit ,the regulations as to size for steamer cabin accommodation . Then there are a number of odd lines in valises, notably a cycling valise, luggage labels and straps, braces and body belts, and a portfolio similar to those in use by the Government departments for containing official papers, &c. It is a thoroughly good display of its class, and the only one.