This article displays in one automatically-generated column. View the full page to see article in its original form.


The following very interesting account !of the cruise of the new schoonei- Lnju , am »n«st the islands of the South Pacific, vi search of native labourers, has been kindly, furnished to us from a diary kept by Captain Ponsonby, who acted as 'navigator on board dvi ing the voyage Captain Ponsonby, besides hating kept a very elaborate diary of t»p voyage, has also at very great trouble di awn up several accurate charts of islands and reefs which he has found to bo incorrectly, ov not at all, marked on the ordinary charts ; and we would recommend all who feel interested in this matter to call upon Captain Ponsonby, who infoims us that he will be only too happy to give anyone all the information in his power on these subiecfe. The Lulu left Onehunga heads on March 4, and arrived at Picton af ber a moderately fine passage on the 6th. After taking on board a cargo of timber, and getting all secure for the voyage, the Lulu sailed from Picton on the loth March, wi-b. a moderate southerly breeze and fine weather; on the 1 7th she experienced strong S.S.E. winds, with high confused seas, during which the Lulu shipped large quantities of water. Next day the wnd decreased, and we were enabled to shake out reefs and make all sail. On the 19fch it again came on to blow heavily from the eastward , with high confused sea, vessel shipping water fore and aft, and going under double-reefed sails. On the 21st the Heather again moderated, and sail was made. On the 22nd, at 2 p.m., sighted Norfolk Island, and at 5 p m. entered passage between that island and Phillips Island, where we supplied a boat from the settlement, in Sydney Bay, that came off to us, with papers ; from thence experienced E.Jf E toN.E winds till sighting Queen Charlotte Head, on the 24th, at Gam, and anchoied off Noumea at 4 p.m. the same day. During the run across, the ' Lulu' aveiaged seven knots. From the 25th March to the Ist April was employed m examining and repan ing damage done lo the vessel during the passage, several of the side planks and deck being found to have started. On the 30th the schooner ' Donald McLean a» rived New Hebiides, repot tin" having experienced heavy easterly weathei. Weighed anchor, and stoo I for Ngo Bay (Dubeget Island) for fresh water, none being procurable at Noumea. All the soil on this portion of New Caledonia seems composed of stiff heavy clay. At daylight o i the 2nd made sail, and shaped vessel's comae for Aneitoum. On the 3rd passed Mare Island) and at 8 a.m. Cape Desigras, with_ fresh, easterly winds, and high sea. Sighted Aneiteum on the 4th at 10 a.m., and anchored in the harbour at 4.30 p.m. Went on shore next day to inquire about fresh water, &c. The natives, being very timid, would not approach, but after a time thoy acquired more confidence, and became more friendly, though very diffident. There appear to be veiy few of them (say total population of 1,000), and those of rather an interior descnption of the human race. Could not get any to assist in watering the ship, as they appeared too idle and disinclined for work. On the 9fch, at 7 a.m., weighed anchor aud shaped course for Tanna, ai riving at Port [Resolution, Tanna, at 1 pm. the same day. On the 10th natives visited the vessel m large numbers for trade purposes. In this part of the island they appear a quiet, intelligent race, f nil of life, and w ith quite a friendly feeling towards Europeans, although constantly at war amongst themselves The anchorage ab Port Resolution, although limited in space, is good, sife, and well sheltered ; except when the wind sets m at north, \i!»hich is a very rate oecurienue, the pie r ailu&tf winds blowing from B.E. quarter all ithe yew, and with tins wind it is as am anchorage as could be wished. (Good fresh water is to be attained with facility at the head of the bajr, and ifirewood in abundance. As laboureis jure not procurable at this island, determined to proceed to Sandwich, as there is some prospect there of obtaining a shipment. Thi3 being the yam season and fr^vveab, natives arc loth to leave their homes, .is tiu° re abundance of food and no work. When provisions get scarce, and the yam planting be ' rmr * na > or » iv otliet ffOrds » work is required, they **• ready to accept service. At 10 am. on t> 12th, weighed anchor and ran up the coast *° Sandwich Island, where we anchored at 2 o '*«><«• Qn \ ho 1AU }> between Protection Island the main land of Sandwich, near a saiu?V Jxacll, in 17 fathoms water. Each side of <- uanuel in Havannah harbour is thickly iiili&bited, and well cultivated. Numerous natives visited the ship, but would not come on board ; they seem distrustful au d have a forbidding appeal ance ; however, they were friendly enough, although not conununicative. The natives of Sandwich improve on acquaintance ; they aie fuendly and cleanly, and have received a certain degice of civilisation by being in contact with Europeans, most of them having at different times accepted foreign servico in Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, and New Caledonia. They will have nothing to do -with missionaries, are still cannibals, and are, as a matter of course, always at war amongst themselves. On Friday, April 15, weighed anchor and stood out of Havannah harbour, with a light N.W. wind, for the purpose of coasting round diffeient islands to procure labourers, if possible. At 8 a.m. abreast of Hat Island; stood through North Chaune!, between Hat and the main island, working to windward, towards ?..ontague Island. At I p in. stood down the west side of Montague Island, and at 3 p.m. anchored in seven fathoms water off a small aandy beach. Schooner Zephyr, of Sydney, anchored near us. Supercaigo went ashoife to make arrangements, if possible. Fine . settled weather ; barometer 30-10, thermometer S2. This is an excellent auchorage, well sheltered— nearly land-locked — on the south by Sandwich, east by Pole and Hiuchinbrook Islands, uoith by Montague. The western passage is a little open, but as the wind rarely comes in at west this does not detract from its merits. It is particularly well secured from the prevailing wmds (S. E. ). The bottom is' clear, tenacious, coral sand. Water and wood are procmable'in abundance, and \ ams, cocoanut's," and~ fruit are cheap and plentiful. These islands are very erroneously laid down on the published charts. The natives are very friendly, although fighting amongst themselves in sight of ship. There appears little chance of procuring labour for New Zealand at tMs place, most of the natives having been already away on foreign service, andlamsorry tostatethat, by their statement, not very well treated.' They are consequently •averse to again leaving their homes. like all savage nations, their admixture with Europeans has along wi-h many good points also taught them the vices prevalent with uneducated Europeans, swearing and profane language particularly. This being the plentiful season, and they being daily at' war with the hill tribes, is another reason wliich biases them to remain at home. The whole population of this island is about 1,200. It is of of ry , smali d£meus icms— 5 miles iv length by 2.1 broad, and 800 feet hio-li, ■ and' very fertile. At 8. 30 p.m. on the lGth, weighed, anchor .ami shaped course for Mallicollo Island, N.\V, b y K. . aohooner Zephyr in company. ohe also lias beeu unsueceastul in fffecurmg labour for the F,ji s . At daylight on the 18th, with light S.E. aira, .a&hWd Ambrvm (volcano), and Paatna .Island,' btood uj> along the Moajdyno Island. -, These I6lailds ? {u-e_very iucorr.eetly.laid down on chart ; ;#joy is quite erroneous] n< t reco^isabJe^fThey are jxl ao surrounded ,seaward, rendggj^^jthe' juavigafopoffm. 1 tricate, : ancLTg^|j,eautioiij is .necessary] | Iney, snould no^Jks.approachcd. three . nomine ,j%sag'o ,. enteml;ittitne &a.x\.\ except ,bv; O n9 .^pllL'-»gq»am^d i.wifch the i M'aflnfiharjts.T < T>o canoes ful; Va^ee (Che ej n^ em of p Oa^ a^o^«|fe

on beach making peaceful demonstrations ; did not stop to communicate. At 1.30 p.m. entered Port Sandwich, and anchored two miles up the narbour in 11 fathoms. Supercargo went on ahoie with armed crew to test the feelings of the inhabitants. About 300 natives on the beach. Induced some to come off in the ship's boat to vessel, Autk' the idea that they might b.j persuaded to accept service ; they .wo Very timid and distrustful. At 5 p.m., cleared the ship At midnight, light land wind 1 at W., very heavy dew, "natives volcano on Ambrym is very ' active", its fire illuminating the aky. Thus harbour is a splendid anchorage', nearly landlocked, only slightly open on north quadrant, and very safe ; it is three miles long in S.W. b}> S. direction, and one mile broad ; good anchorage 13 found all over its space, in 7 to 11 fathoms water. The entrance, though narrow, is very easy of ingress and egress ; at the extreme end 4 fathoms are found ; good water and wood is plentiful, and easily obtainable. Its banks are numerously inhabited, as \v c learnt by the number of fires seen at night ; the scenery is also very beautiful, the groves have the richest tints of verdure, aud cocoa palms are scattered amongst them in vast numbers. The mountains rise far inland, and before them lay seveial lower giounds all covered with firewood, and apparently exuberau'ly fertile. The volcano of Ambrym is distinctly seen from the harbour, throwing smoke and steam by day and fire by nigbt. The island of Mallicollo is 54 miles long N N.W. , by 2-4 miles broad, and we were all delighted with its beautiful scenery, the beauty of its forests (all festooned by creepers of the brightest and richest colours), from whence vast numbers of smokes ascended, sufficient to prove that a gr^at part of the forests were inhabited, and these inhabitants, amidst all the profusion of beauty and fertility, the most savage aud barbaroiis race the world knows — indeed, lower than the animals They aio cannibals, of the blackest ctye. small 111 stature, not strong, Imt actvre. They have seen few if any •« hite men ; they lifted up our trouseis to see if the skin was white underneath and then tncd to rub the white aw Ay. Our beards were gi eat curiosities to them, and underwent great scrutiny, as they aie beardless themselves. Everything seemed stiango to them, they did not even know tobacco"or understand its use, or that of pipes. Of clothing they have none of any kind, neither women nor men. All aie armed with bows and arrows ; no clubs, no niearms. It appears to me that the tribes now occupying the shores are mountain, tribes, who have dispossessed the former holders of the I beach land, and perhaps annihilated them, ; and eaten the best, Bishop Sslwyn visited I this island in ISSI, and placed teachers there, and he nearly lost his life aud that of his boat's crew in so doing. The inhabitants know not the word missionary, and they apparently have never seen a ship before. Their naval architecture consists of a few miserable canoes, which they handle as novices would No doubt the dispossessed tribe, if any escaped, did so by their canoes, aud took their knowledge of working them with them also. They did not know what flour or biscuit was ; they hay.c no idea of trade. Though the land teams with cocoapalms, not one is brought to the beach for sale or barter. They seem to exist on small crabs, grubs, &c , which they hunt for at low water amongst the coral reefs (1 c., I suppose, when man is" not piocurable in these butcher shops*). They have been peaceful enough with us (but we showed them we wove well aimed), but certainly not to be trnstcd ; they have a low forbidding appeal ance. We had two launa and one Sandwich men on boaid, but they could not undei stand their language, aid laughed afc and called them savages. At 230 pm. the boat returned with the supercargo, he ha\ ing been round the harbour, but unsuccessful. Determined to try Ambrym Island. At 3 p.m. set sail aud stood out of Sandwich harbour. At 6 p m liove-to under foie-ancl staysail, with head off shore. Next morning made sail and stood in towards Malhcollo. At 7 a 111. close m with the reef ; hove-to, and the supercargo proceeded on shore. The coast has apparently numerous inhabitants, and the canoes aie of a better desciiptioi* than those in Sandwich harbour. At noon the supercargo returned, and reported the natives in this bay much moie advanced, and physically superior to those we met before. The country to the hill tops is covered with cocoa palms as far as the eye eau see. Weather calm, hazy ; bar. 30-12, ther. 87. At 1.30 p.m., the supc cargo again left the ship, intending to visit a. bay five miles to the northward of last. Three uaiioes visited the vessel, with eight in each ; they appeared friendly, but timid aud distrustful." The supercargo returned afc 4 p m., aud repoited the natives uufriendly and SAvi^e. We then hauled to tli"* wind for Pentecost Island, wind N.E , light. At 4,30 p.m , observed a long dangerous reef extending 3 unles from the 3 and from a point TJ. 45 W., G miles from 03hd i^cli harbour ; also, another very da\i£>crc>us reef ex ndina 4 miles f-eawavA, from a point 2ST. £>4 TV., 10 miles from Sandwich U*i hour. Calm, light, variable ail 3 ; exp&pjenced great difficulty in obtaining an ofliug &b 8 p.m. Light airs and cairns with heavy rippling? and a strong current, but unable to ascertain aitgq&on of set ; apparfeftfcly ship's drift is to S. \V, J may here mention thai this coast is one of great danger, and cams shou'd be taken to have a good offing before dark, m dangerous reefs abound. No dependence can 1?q p aced on the charts : the configuration of the laud cannot be recognised, and no note is made ot any existing leefs, although so many abound. Midnight — Light airs and calm weather, very hazy. Having obtained an offitig at about seven miles, I consider the ship out of danger. At 7 a.m. on the 21sfc rounded Ivip Point, Ambrym Island, and ran in close to the land. At 5.30 the supercargo left the ship for the shore. In two haul's he returned, reporting the natives tmfructndjy, and showing demonstrations that a ngiii would be agreeable. At noon, with a light S. TV. wind, made sail foy Peufceeosfc Island At 8 p.m. the island visible on starboard beam. At midnight, light airs and calms ; weather very hot and sultry. Barometer, 30' 17 ; thermometer, 92. On the 22nd, at 1 a.m., experienced hot sultry weather, with very thick atmosphere and hazy, caused by the smoke aud steam of Ambrym volcano. The water is also covered with ashes and condensed sulphur from the same. At 4 a.m. same wind and weather j no land visible. 8 a.m. : Calm, hot, and suliry. Noon : North Point, Pentecost Island, N.E. £ N. ; South Point, Aurora Island, N.E. by N. £N. ; S.E. Point, Leper's Island, N, \ TV. Latitude, ace. 15 -38 3. ; latitude, obs. 15-40 S. ; latitude, bgs. 15-36 S. • longitude, chro. 16750 E. ; longitude ace 167-59 ; longitude, bgs. 167 '53 E ; Variations, X) "22 easterly, A current here sets to the N.W, at about \ mile per hour. At 9 a.m. on the 23rd hove-to off north end of Pentecosn, lowered boat, and supercargo left the ship *or the shore ; ship standing off and on. At 1 1. 30 boat returned, and the supercargo reported the natives very hostile, and he having been shot at wifcli arrows, they .first bringing saudalwood down as a decoy to induce the boat party to land. Afc various other places the supercargo landed, *t'sfhjgh the natives wore not so hostile as before, b,«i ikjijjjd and distrustful ; as soon a3 any of the boat's crew landed they made for the bush. They apparently have little or nothing, -except fof their immediate wants, and ape in the lowe 3t depths -of barbarism, and go, as usual, naked. The Island of Pentecost is very fertile, to~ judge ,by the exuberant vegeta? .tion-that abounds in Us natural state, and the Bcehery ia beautiful in the extreme: Many good anchorages are to be found in ths numerous bays on the western side, atfordf ing - good an<l secure shelter from the pre* vailing winds (S.-E.)/ The coas\ Us toyhd turn, is- very correctly laid* down on' the charts, twit its delineation is very eiToneons! it is free from hidden' dangers from north'+o south. At 5 p.m. .shaped- course fdrEhi .Point; Ambrym Island-having tletermine'd td "S^Tft '^neyanorth^-ttiit 1 •&£&'.> rfefc&l *Malhcol3o,n^ndwieh/'an I d'lTaW»,'li(aVing"o4 our former .vJBitrieft'Ta,| J en 3 ta'-in'*>thfr : snafe'of ictaefs, supplemented yrith certain "douceurs'! «fo> obt»inwwJ»t i»\xeauired; "Arrivea^t

Sandwich harbour at 5 p.m. on the 24th, anchoring hi nine fathoms water. Next daylarge numbers of natives visited the ship. Finding it impossible 'to procure labourers without force, sailed at 9 a.m., with light S.E. airs and calm. Barometer 30 18, thermometer 81. Anchored off south beach of Havaunah harbour, on the 26th. These natives of Sandwich Island are more advanced in civilisation than' any island we have visited. The bulk of tne male' population Bpeak English, and are very friendly, and' seem inclined to progress. Any quantity of yams and pigs can be obtained at a very moderate rate. These natives had a very bad name a few years back, they having cut off and eaten two or three ships' crews. The improvement now noticed is attributable to many of them having been away on foreign service in Queensland, New Caledonia, and Fijis ; also, many traders visit this fertile and beautiful place. Two Europeans have a cotton plantation of considerable extent on the shores of the harbour, and intend to try the cultivation of coffee. The men are far superior to any we have seen, except those of Tanna, and. to these they are quite equal, and, perhaps, more accessible to impressions than the latter race. They are, however, still cannibals, which horrid practice the Tannas by mutual consent abandoned a year ago. At 4 p.m., the schooner Donald McLean passed, bound to northern islands. On the 27 th, pro cux-ed nine labourers to proceed to New Zealand ; at 4 p.m. weighed anch6r, and proceeded to S.W. Bay, where we arrived next clay. A missionary resides close to our anchorage, and appears to have worked for good, as he has great influence with the natives. Next morning Aye obtained 12 labourers. On the 30fch, a boat was sent to Pangoh Island to see if any natives will volunteer. At about 10 o'clock the boat returned, having obtained two recruits ; the total nunibei obtained at Sandwich Island being 25. Weighed anchor and stood out of y.W. bay, and shaped course for Tanna, with a steady E S "R. bieeze On May 1, passed E'loinanga Island. At noon on the 2nd off Tanna spoke thu schooner Zephyr, of Sydney, bound to Fijis ; also sighted the schooner Coquette woiking to windward. Next day sighted Poit .Resolution, aiid anchoied in the harbour m seven.' fathoms water, the same atteinoou. On Way 5, lkivmy been unable -bo persuade any of the Tanna natives to accept service for New Zealand, decided to sail for Auckland ; sent boat on shoie for Mias Chapman (a passenger for Auckland), and at 3.30 p.m. weighed anchor and stood out of harbour with a light S, E. wind. On May 6, on taking observatioiiß for chronometer, found that the watch had suddenly lost 15 minutes 1$ feecouds, For this greaL change I can in no way account, as it has hitherto been keeping excellent time. Oa May 7, sighted tlw islands of Aneiteuni and Fortuua ; thence light airs and calms till the 9fch, when a fresh breeze spuing up fiom the E.N.E., with light showers, which continued for the next 24 hours ; thence vauable winds till the 14th, when the wind began to freshen from the noitb. Next morning it increased to a kssh gale, with high confused sea ; at 8 a. m. wind mcieasing to a stiff gale with heavy aain, the Three Kings beaijug E. by S. five miles distance. Finding it impossible to haul to the wind with any degree of safety on account of the ten ific seas running, b-ove to under close-reefed foresail; at 1 p.m. the wind slightly moderated — made sail to keep slup to wmcl , at 4 p.m , wind falling light, made aH sail ; at 6 p.m., passed the Three Kings. Afc daylight on the 16th made the island of Motu Pea ', consequently the ship has made a comae S.E. by J£. instead of east, caused by a current (?) ot 1\ mikt,? per hour noitb, or tbe conipaases (>) have wj^hout apparent cause swerved 33' from magnetic noith during the night. At 2 p.m, passed (Jape Maria Van Diemen ; experienced a teit'ific tide rip, watei bieakmg on board iit all directions, siiA ship plunging boAV3 deeply under to (the heavy swells ; at 11 p.m. passed the North Caps, fl.nd anchored at Mangonui at 8 p.m. on the lHh tor orders. Sailed aga n at 2 p m. next day, amving •{& Russell at midnight ; sailed fioin Russell at 10 am on the 19th, and had fresh I,ff. Winds down the coast ; passed Capo Brett at nooif, q,rriving in harbour at 10 o'clock yesterdaj' morning.

This article text was automatically generated and may include errors. View the full page to see article in its original form.
Permanent link to this item

Bibliographic details

NEW, HEBRIDES : CRUISE OF THE LULU. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. |, Daily Southern Cross, Volume XXVI, Issue 3977, 21 May 1870

Word Count

NEW, HEBRIDES : CRUISE OF THE LULU. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLANDS. | Daily Southern Cross, Volume XXVI, Issue 3977, 21 May 1870

  1. New formats

    Papers Past now contains more than just newspapers. Use these links to navigate to other kinds of materials.

  2. Hierarchy

    These links will always show you how deep you are in the collection. Click them to get a broader view of the items you're currently viewing.

  3. Search

    Enter names, places, or other keywords that you're curious about here. We'll look for them in the fulltext of millions of articles.

  4. Search

    Browsed to an interesting page? Click here to search within the item you're currently viewing, or start a new search.

  5. Search facets

    Use these buttons to limit your searches to particular dates, titles, and more.

  6. View selection

    Switch between images of the original document and text transcriptions and outlines you can cut and paste.

  7. Tools

    Print, save, zoom in and more.

  8. Explore

    If you'd rather just browse through documents, click here to find titles and issues from particular dates and geographic regions.

  9. Need more help?

    The "Help" link will show you different tips for each page on the site, so click here often as you explore the site.