GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 14, Issue 244, 9 July 1921, Page 13

GARDEN NOTES

(By

"Kowhat.")

MAKING A GARDEN. In making garden for flow era or ahrubs the aoil should be thoroughly worked at least a month before anything is planted. It is advisable to work the ground three feet deep, keeping the topsoil on top as the subsoil is generally lour. Only when the soil has been deeply worked for a good many years is it safe to bring the subsoil to the top. It is of tho utmost importance to do the work of preparing the ground thoroughly in the first instance, especially where shrubs are to be planted, because these remain in the same place for many years. A flower garden that haa been well made may also be left for a S ?9J} many years before it is necessary to hit everything and again thoroughly dig tho ground. Therefore, in making a tewr garden it is always safest to remove the topsoil, and trench and manure tn® subsoil. Heavy clay soils should be lightened by having Band, road grit, and horse manure worked lnt<* the subsoil, vegetable rubbish, or any decayed vege- , tation may also be used. After the topsoil has been replaced, t 'work into it basic slag (4oz. to square yard). Dicht soils may also have decayed vegetation worked into the subsoil, bat instead of horse manure, cow or pig manure should bo used, and also plenty of dead leaves, soot and wood ashes. Into tho topsoil work 4oz. of bonedust to the square yard. Top-dress tho gardens with lime m the spring if the manuring was done in the autumn If the gardens are made and manured in the spring, top-dress with lime in tho following autumn. By breaking up and tilling the subsoil, a mass of good soil containing available plant food is obtained. The more the food, the better tho plants. Once a garden Is permaneiitly planted with shurba or herbaceous plants it should not be dug with a spade or deeply forked, for this breaks or bruises the tender roots which are just below the surface of the soil, and spoils them for flowering. It a garden nas been well trenched and manured at first, all that is necessary for a good many years is weeding, loosening of the surface soil by shallow hoc ng or by the use of the hand fork, mulching with well-decayed manure, and stimulating with artificial manures. PERENNIALS. Take every advantage of soil being in good condition to push on with the work amongst perennials. New, roots may be planted now of such things as herbaceous phlox, Oriental poppies, gypsophila nantculatn.. delphiniums coreopsis, grandL fiora, galllardias, ‘pentstemons, pyrethrums, antirrhinums, aquilegias, carnations. daisies, campanulas, hollyhocks, Michaelmas daisies, scabious, verbenas, thalictrum di pterocarpum. golden rod, sweet williams, and Canterbury bells (biennials). Old clumps that need breaking un may atill he attended to. Lift the old clump, and plant back strong young pieces from the outside of the clump. Where big clumps of perennials have been lifted, work into the soil some well-dAcayod vegetable me.tter from a rubbish heap, and a little bonedust. Examine the roots before planting, and cut off with a sharp knife any that are bruised or damaged. The gardener who has not much spare time cannot do better than fill up his beds with perennials The ordinary amateur gardener has no time to spare for elaborate bedding-out schemes. His main object is to have bis little garden gay at all ‘ seasons of the year, and this can best be achieved by means nf a judicious choice of perennial plants, roses, and flowering shrubs, with the help of a few annuals. SWEET PEAS. The time will soon arrive when we must think about making the spring sowing of sweet peas. The ground where they are to bo grown should be prepared as soon as possible now. Remove the topsoil, and thoroughly break up -the subsoil. working into it plenty of manure. If animal manure is not to be had, use decayed garden rubbish, dead leaves, or even* green manure, and ashes from a wood or rubbish fire. Mix the rubbish or manure thoroughly with the subsoil, and also a good sprinkling of bonedust. The subsoil should be worked to a depth of at least two feet, for sweet peas are deep rooters. As the spring-sown peas have to endure the hot summer weather, the deeper and cooler the root runs the more fit will the plaiTW keen. Return the topsoil, and thoroughly blacken tho surface with soot. After two or three days hoe this well in. and again blacken the surface with soot. Continue Inis treatment, if possible till the time arrives for sowing the seed. ROUTINE WORK. Seeds of pansies, antirrhinums, stocks, scabious, gaura lindbeimeri, and of such hardy annuals as larkspur, double pink, and lavender gem godetia, annual gypsophila, nigella, candytuft, phlox drurhmondti schiz&nthus. popples, cornflowers. annual coreopsis, etc., may all be sown now in seed-pans. If a frame is not available, have the pans in a sunny sheltered spot, and, after sowing the seed, cover them with sheets of glass. Regardless of bad weather, slugs seize every opportunity to creep forth from shelter and take steps to satisfy what Is an apparently unappeasable appetite. Now that hyacinths are puu’ing above the ground they must ba carefully watched, for no sooner do the green tips appear than slugs hasten to feast on them. They climp up into daphne bushes, eating the tips of the buds, and so covering the buds with alime that the flowers cannot expand. Even the buds of narcissi are not despised by them, while violets, pansies, and Iceland poppies are evidently prime favourites. Dusting the soil with soot checks them during dry weather, but the best plan is to trap them by means of pieces of carrot or potato spread about, or by slipping out into the garden after dark, with a torch and a sharp pair of scisrort. and surprising them as. they feast. The buds of early narcissi arc beginning to show eolour, while polyanthus narcissi, paper white, and snowflakes are already in bloom. Two or three neat stakes should be driven in round each clump in preparation for encircling tho growing leaves and. sterna with a strong band of flax or raffia later on. When staked In this way, narcissi, hyacinths, tulips, etc., are left fairly free, and are yet protected from strong wind and heavy rain. It is indeed sad to see their lovely flowers beaten down into the mud for want of a little attention at the right time. Sweet peas must be kept trained up their supports. Wallflowers and stock" should be securely tied to neat firm stakes. Christmas roses are fast opening their lovely flowers, and a little weak soot water may lie given to them once a week Rose bushes are looking rather shabby, and pruning may be commenced in sheltered garden". Work a little bonedust into th» soil about each bush at the first opportunity. Keep clumps of freesi.ts free from weeds and work a little well-ripened soot in among tho bulbs. Anemone", tzm like 3. little well-ripened son* worked in about their root" Boot is a grand fertiliser, and improves the colour of flowers, qchlzanthus plants from the autumn sowing are beginning ro b* tep-heaw with growth, and should be securely staiiod. LINARIA. It is a dninty little annual that is apt to bo overlooked when such a number of more brilliant flowers are in b’oom. It 1" no* until this time of the year that, one fully appreciates it. The dainty little flowers are very like tiny snapdragons, and they are most sweetly scented. The flowers are produced most freely on the i tiny bushes the colours being, as a rule, shades of lilac, purple, and yellow. From seeds sown early in the autumn, plants will be produced that will flower all through the winter in a sunny, welldrained border. Llnarla is valuable, too, as a suhimer-flowerlng annual, because it will grow in a dry situation where many other subjects would fail. Garden notes next week will contain seasonable notes about hydrangeas, routine work, and vegetables.