THE WINE-PRESS Merits of classic and hybrid grapes

Press, Volume CXI, Issue 32706, 8 September 1971, Page 25

THE WINE-PRESS Merits of classic and hybrid grapes

(By

J. C. GRAHAM)

Battle lines have been drawn in the New Zealand wine world. On the one side those who insist that wines from classic grapes are the only ones worth drinking. On the other those who uphold hybrids as the saviour of the industry—and of the purse of regular wine drinkers who are not millionaires.

Without getting into this fight I might still be caught in the crossfire by declaring that wines from both types of grapes are markedly improving.

Take pinotage hailed especially in Henderson as the way ahead for better quality reds, yet dismissed by some pundits as an inferior grape. It may not be up to cabernet, but now that makers have gained experience with pinotage, and some of their products have had a chance to mature, some very palatable versions are coming on the market. Likewise with whites. A personal view is that there is a fine future for pinot Chardonnay, especially since I am told it is bearing well here for a classic grape. 1 1 tasted San Marino Pinot last year in the unlikely setting of suburban Tokyo. Everyone else in the company but my j host took it for granted that; it was a good French white burgundy—and justifiably so. ! I believe New Zealand pinot Chardonnay should improve ' in the bottle for several years—that is certainly the case with those I have tasted from McWilliam’s, Corban’s and Western vineyards. , More riesling

But the classic white which Is coming into ever greater prominence, and which will do so for some years to come, is undoubtedly riesling sylvaner (often labelled simply riesling). A few years ago some of

the wines so labelled contained little more than a gesture toward this grape. Now so much riesling sylvaner has been planted that it occupies the third largest area of any grape variety in New Zealand. Many of these vines are now coming into full bearing and the likelihood is that most wines of that name will be true to label.

More than that, makers are learning how to get the best out of the grape and some exceedingly pleasant dry whites are coming on the market.

I recently tried the 1971 vintage Montana Riesling which for a wine so young is quite a revelation. It has an attractive colour, striking fruitiness, and yet a very good balance between sweet and dry, which is in my opinion, the greatest appeal of a good white wine. At present it also has the freshnes of youth, but it gives every sign that it will mature into a still better wine. If it is typical of the classicals to come from Montana’s new vineyards, this company has some very good things in store.

Effect of ageing An experienced winemaker recommended lately that riesling sylvaner should be used within 18 months that would mean using the 1971 vintage not later than the end of 1972. There is a theory that the wine develops a flatness of taste with age. Yet Corban’s Riverlea Riesling of 1968 is now to my mind superior to young wines. It has taken on rhe

“honeyed overtones of maturity,” is deeper in colour, taste and bouquet. In my view far more wine is consumed too young in New Zealand than too old.

Many other makes are now introducing versions of riesling, such of those soon to be released by Lincoln and Gilbey Nobilo. Advance samples of each tasted recently easily stood up to the test of drinking alone as an aperitif. The potential of New Zealand for white wines is now appearing.

What about the new hybrids then? I am sure the secret here lies in better strains and improved production techniques. Recently a wholesaler featured a 1967 dry red as a “vintage” wine. It took me right back to what we accepted a few years ago as normal in New. Zealand reds —thin, sour, acid, and of a type which no amount of maturing would benefit. Good hybrid reds Compare it with the good hybrid reds now being made. Penfold’s, for instance, have a claret on the market which many people have taken for wine from classic grapes. It has depth, body and something of the mouth-filling quality of bigger wines. It is certainly one of the best readily-available reds. The point about these hybrids is that they cost less than the premium grade classics, yet have Shaken off many of the failings of the earlier product. They still lack bouquet, but so far that goes also for many of the classics made here. So the hybrids are still

within reach for everyday drinking, whereas some of the premium grades are rising to the level of special occasion wines. McWilliam’s, for instance, arte putting out a red—labelled burgundy, and a white—labelled hock, exclusively in the new shape half gallon flagons- Sound quaffing wines, they cost something like 30 cents or 40 cents less for the equivalent of a bottle than the higher quality wines, and show a saving of even more on some premium lines. Critics of the performance of the New Zealand, industry insist that New Zealand should not imitate overseas types, but try to develop its own . distinctive wines. In fact New Zealand has such wines in its economically priced hybrids—and still the purists object It seems the winemakers cannot win either way.—(Reprinted by arrangement with the “NZ. Economist.”)