NORMAN HARTNELL SAYS:- Keep To Over-all Wardrobe Plan

Press, Volume CVIII, Issue 31661, 23 April 1968, Page 2

NORMAN HARTNELL SAYS:Keep To Over-all Wardrobe Plan

LONDON. If you came to me and said that you had just thrown all your clothes in the river and wanted to start completely from scratch, what would I advise you to buy? First of all. I would recommend an over-all plan. For example, any skirt you choose should look well with a coat. The jacket you choose should match not only the skirt, but match or contrast with the slacks you pick.

A trouser suit with an alternative skirt is a good idea, too. The skirt and sweater you choose should one with everything else and, preferably, you should have several of each to ring the changes. Never buy a pair of shoes that does not match your gloves, handbag, and hat. My basic list would comprise a coat, suit (or dress and jacket), a short evening dress, various skirts, shirts, sweaters, and perhaps a coatdress. Let me elaborate on this theme.

It is much more of a problem to buy spring or autumn clothes than summer ones, so let us deal first with clothes for the chillier seasons.

My dress with its matching jacket would be in a light tweed, and the jacket would be short. The coat would be reversible, and a good (rather expensive) woollen coat—brightly coloured on the one side, reversing to sober navy or black on the other side. Dresses would ally with, or contrast with the coat. I like silk or wool dresses as they will “go anywhere” and are always elegant No Limit I would choose one silk dress, one wool, and if the budget would run to it I would like an extra silk dress. I would impose no limit on sweaters, shirts, and skirts. If you own three different sweaters, three different shirts, and three skirts, you can mix and match, add and subtract accessories, and so fool onlookers into believing you have the most enormous wardrobe. How about evening? Well, the little black dress is inevitable, I suppose. I would also persuade you to buy onrf long black crepe evening skirtright down to the ground. You will bless the day you bought it, because you can wear a great variety of evening tops with it. Chiffon blouses or shirts look marvellous with long black crepe skirts, and flatter all women, as do abbreviated tops in gold lace, or pure silk shirts. When assembling a new

wardrube, the. question would eventually arise: “How slavishly do I follow fashion?” You will find that it puts you off (as it. should) from buying a style too outrageous, a style fashionable one minute and deader than the dodo the next. Please, do not buy a style that dates quickly.

A basic wardrobe would have to be bought at the right time. Remember that in January and July we have the sales in Britain. After the summer sales the stores buy

Another article in the series by the British fashion designer, Norman Hartnell.

in their autumn-winter stock, and after the January sales, they buy in spring-summer merchandise.

Careful Buying

It is no good shopping for a winter coat in February. Most of the stock will have gone. You will be offered a light Easter coat, however bad the weather. And in months when you want something really summery, you might well be startled to find the assistant offering you a light woollen autumn dress.

So when shopping for basic clothes remember the early bird very definitely gets the worm. Then you can be sure of the greatest possible choice.

Of course it is no good deciding just what you need to improve your wardrobe, then returning from the shops with something entirely different and entirely unsuitable.

But this often happens, and 1 used to wonder why until I accompanied a few women friends on shopping sprees. Then I discovered how easily women become distracted and buy things they do not really want. Few Rules So I have devised a few rules which may help you when you are starting out to refurbish your wardrobe. First, always shop on your own. Never take a friend with you—her taste will invariably not be the same as yours and will only muddle and confuse you. Decide before you set out exactly what you want, and then go from shop to shop until you find it Never be persuaded into having something which is nearly right When your budget is limited, only buy clothes of materials which feel firm but which do not remain creased if you crush them momentarily in your hand. Remember, unless a garment fits you really well or can be easily altered, reject it regardless of how much you like the style and colour. You

will never feel at ease in something that does not fit really well. Buy each garment with an eye to the next Make sure your new clothes and your exciting accessories go happily together, then you will be well on the way to having an interesting and completely practicable wardrobe. Check List Have you taken a long and critical look through your wardrobe lately? Are you missing any of the basic essentials every well-dressed woman should have? Here is a simple check list which will give you the answer:—

Do you have clothes of too many colours, some of which clash when worn together? If you have, get rid of the offenders. All-purpose garments are the best bargains. Have you a good pair of court shoes which will go with practically anything? If not, they should be on top of your “things to buy” list. Have you anything you have not worn lately because you do not feel happy in it, or which you do not think suits you? If so, give it away, sell it, or otherwise get rid of it as soon as possible. Make a list of special occasions for which you feel your wardrobe is inadequate. You should have: a good suit, a dress for cocktails or a dinner date, and something suitable for the country. Keep this list by you ready to replace before your husband the next time he is in a particularly good mood.