Gardeners' Queries

Press, Volume CVI, Issue 31344, 14 April 1967, Page 8

Gardeners' Queries

Enclosed is a specimen of a red lily which I have grown for a few years. I have two large clumps of the bulbs and they make a beautiful display, could you please tell me the name of it?—“Ashburton.” The lily is a brunsvigia. I enjoyed your article on “Herbs in the Garden” In "The Press” of March 25 and would be grateful if you could inform me where these herbs can be bought in Christchurch as you mentioned a specialist retailer; the address of the Herb Lovers’ Club. H.S. (Christchurch). The Herb Lovers’ Club, 404 A Seiwood road, Hastings. Mrs Avis Hill. Address of retailers and similar establishments are not given unless for very special reasons. Could you please advise me what to do about my lemon tree which appears to be deteriorating rapidly. The whole bush looks rather poor, the leaves are pale and appear to be eaten in places while the colour is rather sickly. The wood is sort of scorched looking. Samples of fruit, leaves and wood are enclosed.—P.W. (Christchurch). Leaf roller caterpillar is responsible for the rolled and eaten leaves and rasped fruit, scale insects are to be seen on the twigs and some of the leaves, and the sooty discoloration is caused by fungus living on the exudations from the scales. Spray with D.D.D. and white oil. This may have to be repeated in the case of the oil in May. A good ration of fertiliser such as a proprietary “citrus food” should be given to induce new growth and vigor in the tree as infestations appear to be very heavy. Our vegetable garden, 12 yards by eight yards, has along the south-east side four silver birches some 40 feet high with branches extending half way over the garden. I gave up ' growing vegetables three years ago for it seemed that though the ground was soaked one night it would be dry by the following one, and the plants would be wilting. I thought that this was due only to the dryness of the season but it now occurs to me that these big trees may be drawing out the moisture. Of course the trees have grown considerably in the three years since we worked the ground. With prices rising I have to think about growing vegetables again. Would you suggest removal of the trees, or what? They are not in any way a shelter belt—E.W. (Christchurch).

Such large trees in close proximity to each other and so close to the vegtable garden would undoubtedly severely deplete the ground not only of water, but also of nourishment thus depriving the vegetables of their requirements. Although it is difficult to give an opinion without seeing the area in question, and much though I dislike destroying trees, it would seem that at least two of them would have to be removed if it is desired to crop the ground successfully.

Many of my apples have gone the way of the enclosed samples. I would like to know the explanation for this trouble and what steps should be taken to prevent a recurrence.—P.P. (Christchurch). The samples of apple display various stages of brown rot, a disease usually associated with stone fruit but not uncommon on apples. Entry is gained through injury, mechanical, or insect attack such as codlin moth evident on your fruit. Hygiene such as removal of diseased fruit and spraying should give good control.

I have a number of cannas in my garden for the first time this year and know very little about their care. They are obviously thriving but I wondered if it is necessary to lift them for the winter or divide them annually. There is very little frost where they are. Also, as a very amateur, though most enthusiastic gardener, I often wonder which of my many varied shrubs and perennials would particularly like the left-over tea leaves from my pot.—J.H. (Banks Peninsula). In places of severe frost, it pays either to mulch the ground with material such as straw over winter, or else lift and store in a frost-free place, keeping the roots moist by covering with damp sand or soil. Division, every two or three years, should be done in early spring by cutting the roots into 3in to 4in pieces. A warm position in full sun, ample organic matter and water to prolong the flowering season if dry are necessary for the best results. Add the tea leaves to the compost heap but if they are put straight in the garden, do not apply thickly. Please could you help us with our apple problem. We have picked a good crop of Cox’* Orange this year which we put away for use later on. They have been looked at every week to make sure there are no bad ones. Lately some have got, spots on and this has increased so that it seems as though all are getting the same thing. I am sending you one so that you might suggest what to do about it.—“ Worried” (Christchurch).

Bitter pit, a physiological disease, is the cause of the numerous sunken spots on the apple. Some varieties such as Cox’s Orange are more susceptible to it than others. It can occur whilst fruit is still on the tree and also can develop in storage. The exact cause is not known, though Several factors are linked with its occurrence, including excessive use of nitrogen, hard pruning which has induced over large fruit and variety. Remedy: Calcium nitrate applied in solution at the rate of 1 ounce per gallon of water at fortnightly intervals from full bloom until harvest. The incidence of the disease seems to be very low amongst crops which I have seen this year. Thank you for your answer to my previous query. I am emboldened to send another. In my Surrey garden I had a much prized Leycesteria formosa; here I have seen it growing wild a* far apart as Auckland and

Stewart Island, on the West Coast and on the slopes above Lyttelton, so I know it flourishes here. But I have never seen it in a garden or listed by a nurseryman. Is it by any chance one of those plants that by some strange transformation has become a noxious weed Instead of a horticulturist’s pride? I should like to have one in the garden as the unusual flowers are so attractive for floral work. If this is possible how could I set about getting one? So often a plant growing wild does not transfer too well to a garden, also do I break any laws digging up wild plants. As it is not a native presumably it is not protected.—R.J. (Christchurch).

For general information Leycesteria formosa, Himalaya honeysuckle or spider wort is an evergreen shrub frequently highly esteemed by newcomers to New Zealand, but a plant which has established itself as a fairly widespread weed here. Although I have not transplanted a specimen, it should not be difficult to shift a young plant providing soil is kept around the roots, which should be disturbed as little as possible. It could also be grown from seed and cuttings. It is an offence to take anything, indigenous or otherwise from a national park, reserve, parkland or private property.