GARDEN NOTES

Press, Volume LXXXI, Issue 24750, 15 December 1945, Page 5

GARDEN NOTES

(Specially Written for "The Press.”) [By T. D. LENNIE. F.1.H.. N.Z.] FLOWER GARDEN Spring - flowering bulbs anemones, ranunculus, tulips, hyacinths, narcissus—can now be lifted if ground is wanted for bedding plants. Anemones and ranunculus are seldom effective the second season, and therefore can be relegated to the reserve patch. The others should have soil removed and be stored in boxes under cover for replanting in February. In their place, stocks, asters, zinnias, petunias, hollyhocks, carnations, and marigolds can be planted. Chrysanthemum growths should be reduced to about 15 inches, and with old clumps of these and perennial asters,, a third of the stems can be taken out entirely. It is better to have fewer good quality flowers than an excess of indifferent ones. Aubretia edging plants can be trimmed hard, and lobelia ageratum or tagetes planted in the gaps. Complete planting of dahlias if good flowering is expected this season. Aphis is prevalent now on roses and various plants and vegetables. Spray nicotine sulphate. Hot weather will bring on mildew and leaf rusts. Bordeaux or colloidal sulphur is recommended. Rhododendrons that were hit by last winter’s frost may be improved in shape by cutting out much weak growth, especially the higher portions. To get winter and early spring flowers sow now wallflower, sweet William, pansies. antirrhinums, and sweet peas. VEGETABLE GARDEN Seeds to sow now for late use; swedes, turnips, silver beet, and spinach, parsley, lettuce, and salads. There is still lime for a row of Massey or Blue Bantam peas, or to fill up vacant plots with late potatoes. Dwarf or runner beans can be sown Plant out for winter savoys, broccoli, sprouts, drumhead cabbage, and leeks. Celery can be planted. This is one crop that warrants preparation by way of a well-manured trench. Tomatoes are growing well. See to staking and tying, and pinching out lateral growths. FRUIT GARDEN Borer grubs on raspberries and codlm moth on apples and pears call for control by arsenate of lead spraying. If not already done, thin heavy crops of apples and pears. Spray vines with Bordeaux or colloidal sulphur to control the deadly mildew Lime sulphur, two tablespoonfuls to one gallon of water, is imperative to minimise brown rot on stone fruits. A judicious thinning of all superfluous growths on fruit trees is advisable, to let in sunlight to the young fruits. SUMMER PRUNING It does seem a waste of effort to allow a fruit tree to make any number of strong gross shoots each season, and remove them in the winter pruning. This can be altered, with benefit to the tree, by some regular attention during the growing season in the direction of stopping these in favour of medium-sized growths, which are more likely to furnish into fruiting wood. Not too many should be treated at one time, or the work begun too early—January-February is the best time to begin, as then the formation of secondary shoots is obviated. On outdoor vines particularly the pinching of laterals at one leaf past the bunch is necessary, and many useless growths should be removed entirety. Most vines make such rampant growths In a more or less restricted space that some thin-nlng-out .must be done to let daylight into the fruiting parts. LIQUID MANURING Liquid manuring is of most benefit when plants are well established, or are approaching the peak' of growth. Harm would he done to young plants by forcing them unduly, whereas more mature growth can assimulate and respond to the impulse of concentrated liquid food very quickly When flowers are showing or fruits half size is about the ideal time, to begin.