AN HOUR IN WELLINGTON'S CHINATOWN.

Press, Volume LVII, Issue 10777, 3 October 1900, Page 6

AN HOUR IN WELLINGTON'S CHINATOWN.

OPIUM SMOKING AND qtfMBLTNQ.

AN INTERESTING 6HEETCH,

<BT OT7B SPECIAL KEPOttTER.)

Though Wellington can claim —not with pride, it is true —a very much larger Chinese population than Christcliurch possesses, yet ihe recognised public opium-dens in the Empire City could be counted on the fingers of jne hand. Following up the article on opium smoking in Lnristchurch, " The Press" has obtained, for the purposes of oomparisoo, some particulars of the conditions of things in Wellington. The Chinese swarm in the vicinity of Hainiug street—two rows ox hovels in 1C Aro, in the jn.d.,t. ot a thickiy-pupulattd irea. Keccnt *'&iuminuig'' by sanitary otuDials, however, caustu some improvement. Witii an omoial as ucuono, "juib I'lth.V representative visited severe -—(.olio ot them overuurueiuxl wuu sweeuie&s of ptrtunie. li was curious to note tiiAt aimost every wjnciow jn llie stitet had wuodeu shutters, wuicn gave littJe opportunity to ivouid-be spies. biiH more fcUiprising was it to nud m every house euteied. a complete installation ot bruiianl fiectnu light. I'his was keeping pace witli civilisation with a vengeance: mere Were an many us three brilliant lights 111 one sinali room, about tilt by 10u, m wiuch lour Celestials were quietly engaged in a game 01 cards. Jjon^ , , nurrow uuua they wtre, and the number in one puck seemed to be inliuuierable. A fnenUiy "John" endtavourtd to explain the game, but the visitors were so dull vi compieiieiisiun that they lelt littie the wiser. Group* ot halles.-j women of the demimonde hung over their trout gate.-) —where j there weie any—a;itl husned their conversation as the wti.-KuuHii official and his companion walked slowly along. What lives those poor creatures must lead! It wus mentioned that there were quite a number of European wives of Chinese in the street. By some of the former such a marriage is ruyarded at a "catcli, ,, for it is vi coininun knowledge that, jis a rule, the Usiine.sc husband dpe.s not ciucliy ill-treat his wife in the way many JLuropeans in that class of lite do. But these ladies are not noted for their fuitlifulness. In two or three places opium smoking was in progress, but it was in particularly fuii awing in an evil-smelling deu, lighted only by the improvised bottle-kerosene lamps, which were utilised for resting the chandu —by which name opium prepared for smoking is called. The origin of the crackling noiso which greeted the visitors from all parts of the room could not at first be ascertained on account of the density of the overpowering fumes from half a dozen pipes in tuil swing. The sound was very similar to that frequently heard when tobacco juice usserts itself in a pipe. Tie room waa not more than 12ft by 12ft, but on the benches—one above the other on ono side—were six Oiinamen, all with their backs to the door, presumably enjoying their bunday night's dissipation. An intelligentjooking Chinaman, after exhaling through hm nostrils another inhalation of emoke, passed his pipe on to a friend, and entered into conversation. He expressed agreement with the sujreesUon ot the pressman that "tobacco the best " aed proceeded to roll a cigarette, remarking the white that "there waa too muchee duty on opium. ' He cordially invited his guest to hare a smoke, and -held out a long, unwholeeome, peouliar-Jooking bamboo pipe wibh its great opening for the mouth to coyer, but the offer was greeted -with a shake of the ihead. "I get you new one," persisted the affable host, and suiting the action to the word, no drew out a box from und#r a bnnch, and, forcing it open, drew out a eomewh&t cleaner pipe. Jmpdled by curiosity, the newspaper man assented, but hesitated when he saw the treacly-looking mixture being roasted. At last it was ready, and full instructions were given how to do the trick. The pressman succeeded in squeezing the large mouthpiece into his mouth, took a big draw, got a little startled at the crackling noise, tried to get rid; of the emoke^—and spluttered and ohok«d, much to the amusement of his companion and 1 the tempting Chaw. Of how the etiiff tasted the writer has a very vague idea, but he can remember being forced to join in the merriment by the extraordinary antics of the pig-tailed individual who was greatly responsible for the occurrence. On the way out, another room waa passed through, and there was seen a painful sight —three colonial youths smoking opium, and a huge, fat-faced European lying on bis back in a stupor. He seemed, from the distorted appearance of his features, to be undergoing the torments of hell rather than the pleas.xnt sense of well-being and content, and the enjoyment of beautiful dreams and visions, which are supposed to be experienced after indulgence in opium-smoking. But no time was spent in that compartment. The next place of call was a gamblingden, where fun-tan was being played in a most barp-faced manner, and with current coin of the realm. Here, in a briiliantlyJighted room, about 15ft square, from 30 to 40 Chinese crowded round a table jabbering and quarrelling, and eagerly grabbing their winnings. Little ca,red they for the pt>»sib>ra.rt,ition of China. I Tan-tan was as puzzling as the other game witnessed. Half-a-crown was the largest coin placed on the leaden mat (lead being used to deaden the sound), and a threepenny bit the smallest. The banker, a smart-look-ing man. controlled afTairs calmjy, and with w» air of Kuperioritv, and now and again condescendingly smiled at the banter and joking going on around him. Prominently displayed in front of his nssistant were tw'j knives—the blades about 18in or 20in lon« These are said to be for the protection of the bank in case of trouble, but it is recognised that they do most service as "silent persuaders," But the vitiated atmosphere was too strong for the writer, and after a hasty glance at the peculiar Chinese musical instruments which adorned the walls, he nought fresh air.